Looking to build a pair of stereo speakers. I need something with a difference though and don't know where to start with drivers and config, so will present a list of what I need from this speaker
Based on max 6.5" drivers so that I can fit the build on my equipment. A larger driver will increase panel width in excess of the CNC/laser work bed
High fidelity monitor grade
Must be single FR or coax type, not multi driver multiway
Have drivers on the front and back of the box with good presentation at about 2-6m on both firing sides
120wrms @ 8R available per channel
I am in AU, so driver availability is an issue. Should I try a PA driver like the Faitalpros? A very brash PA type sound would not be the sound that I am looking for. Maybe more like these Tannoys but 90 would be a good SPL target
Based on max 6.5" drivers so that I can fit the build on my equipment. A larger driver will increase panel width in excess of the CNC/laser work bed
High fidelity monitor grade
Must be single FR or coax type, not multi driver multiway
Have drivers on the front and back of the box with good presentation at about 2-6m on both firing sides
120wrms @ 8R available per channel
I am in AU, so driver availability is an issue. Should I try a PA driver like the Faitalpros? A very brash PA type sound would not be the sound that I am looking for. Maybe more like these Tannoys but 90 would be a good SPL target
Darcher.com.au looks like it supplies the Mark Audio range. Madisound used to ship internationally -- maybe they still do.
The CHR-120 would probably be closest, power wise. I would also look at the Fostex FF165WK, but don't know who would supply them in OZ.
Do you plan on filtering the rear driver, or are you going more for an omni pattern?
The CHR-120 would probably be closest, power wise. I would also look at the Fostex FF165WK, but don't know who would supply them in OZ.
Do you plan on filtering the rear driver, or are you going more for an omni pattern?
The TB W6-2313 is very good, but at 87dB, it doesn't meet your 90dB goal.
Faitals, like the 4fe32 at 91dB does, but will need taming in the highs.
The SBA SATORI MR16P-4 is called a midrange, but reaches 15kHz, so unless you play to teenagers, yours ears will probably not notice what's missing above. Very good performer, and sensitivity of 92dB.
Faitals, like the 4fe32 at 91dB does, but will need taming in the highs.
The SBA SATORI MR16P-4 is called a midrange, but reaches 15kHz, so unless you play to teenagers, yours ears will probably not notice what's missing above. Very good performer, and sensitivity of 92dB.
Thank you for the suggestions, will look them upDo you plan on filtering the rear driver, or are you going more for an omni pattern?
The system is for music appreciation for a small group, and peeps should be able to speak to the person next to them over the music playing and discuss what's playing. I perform 'selector' and would like to receive the same audio image from my location away from the seating. Members can grab their instruments or mics and join in any time. I am running a high-end Roland MX-1 receiving Media Monkey playlist over USB and FL Studio channels and 6 analog inputs from the sends of the Yamaha mixer for the members to the analog ins of the MX-1
At any time, there could be a small crowd of a dozen or so near the sound desk or members seating. Usually I have small monitors on the desk, but having the monitors so close just doesn't feel right, and I really want to try getting the same image as on the seating side. Double carport converted to outdoor living area, Coolie Uncle style
Genre is all West Indian and Bollywood. Ranging from modern pop to a lot of these type of stuff linked below. The goldies is when the mics come out! My 10yr old daughter plays the double bass too
The TB W6-2313 is very good, but at 87dB, it doesn't meet your 90dB goal.
Faitals, like the 4fe32 at 91dB does, but will need taming in the highs.
The SBA SATORI MR16P-4 is called a midrange, but reaches 15kHz, so unless you play to teenagers, yours ears will probably not notice what's missing above. Very good performer, and sensitivity of 92dB.
Another example
TB is out of range due to shipping costs. The Faital might be available at DJ city and I love the SBA woofer that I have so seems a quality brand
I do have all sorts of DSP options on the MX-1 and extra DSP units from Ali from the NVarcher brand. The MX-1 lets me set multiple effects on every channel as well as master effects, and mastering effects on the outputs. DSP and EQ curves can recalled on the fly
Does anyone have any experience with the higher end Dayton full range drivers? Wagner Electronics carries them in Sydney. That's where I sourced the alloy cone PR drivers for the sub. The sub in my tutorial will run these speakers from its internal amp. At the moment I use 4 sets of Logitech Z623 and does an acceptable job on the highs and totally cant complain about the bass, it's musical and powerful. Much more powerful than the much larger Yamaha subs they replaced
What about higher end car audio coax? JLAudio, Pioneer, Focal?
Looks good, thanks for the suggestion. I don't want to upset anyone, but I think I have seen this copper cone in the offerings of an Alibaba speaker manufacturer and might have even linked that for my tube portable build. Does anyone know if this brand got copied? The Tetonic on the front page of Darcher site is actually also sitting in my cart on Ali!he CHR-120 would probably be closest, power wise.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003216399618.html
If the CHR-120 is an in-house Mark audio product, then it's the only one on my shortlist at the moment
A more powerful example of a goldie
Recent covers like this is the main purpose of the gathering. My style is much like Raymond in the vid
Thanks for the suggestion, they look very good. A search is not locating anything locally
Things get harder
The amp can do 120wrms @ 8R per stereo channel. Electronically limited PSU and only good for nominal 8R. This means 4R drivers to get the 8R per cab
Things get harder
The amp can do 120wrms @ 8R per stereo channel. Electronically limited PSU and only good for nominal 8R. This means 4R drivers to get the 8R per cab
+1 for the CHR-120.
The MA wide-band (aka full-range) drivers are quite versatile and can handle a wide genre of music as long as they are played within their limits. The drivers can be also used in bass-reflex, TL/MLTL or horn alignments, providing a broader choice of enclosures.
The MA wide-band (aka full-range) drivers are quite versatile and can handle a wide genre of music as long as they are played within their limits. The drivers can be also used in bass-reflex, TL/MLTL or horn alignments, providing a broader choice of enclosures.
SBAcoustics is one of the best price/performance ratio at the moment.
They have distributors in AU.
I've been building with their wide rangers like SB65 and SB10, and also bass supported by their woofers. All of them very well made and performing very nicely.
Dayton stuff can be good too, but not all.
They have distributors in AU.
I've been building with their wide rangers like SB65 and SB10, and also bass supported by their woofers. All of them very well made and performing very nicely.
Dayton stuff can be good too, but not all.
The CHR-120, from what I have seen in measurements, have a big cone breakup from 5kHz and up.
Looking at the raw graph, it would hurt my ears listening to that. It might be possible to bring it down with active EQ, and make it sound good.
Looking at the raw graph, it would hurt my ears listening to that. It might be possible to bring it down with active EQ, and make it sound good.
Thank you+1 for the CHR-120.
The MA wide-band (aka full-range) drivers are quite versatile and can handle a wide genre of music as long as they are played within their limits. The drivers can be also used in bass-reflex, TL/MLTL or horn alignments, providing a broader choice of enclosures.
hmmmm, I would rather a better behaved driver then. Wagner carries many of the SBA range, I'll go through those again, Really not too keen on a multiway array but a coax might be okThe CHR-120, from what I have seen in measurements, have a big cone breakup from 5kHz and up.
Looking at the raw graph, it would hurt my ears listening to that. It might be possible to bring it down with active EQ, and make it sound good.
This might do it
Here's a review of the CHR-120 from Jospeh Crowe:
https://josephcrowe.com/blogs/news/markaudio-chr120
https://josephcrowe.com/blogs/news/markaudio-chr120
From the link:
10dB break up from 5kHz, and that's after applying a BSC. Ouch.
The only way I could listen to that is with active EQ to tame all that roller coaster ride happening.
It's a lot of work to make that driver sound good... to me anyway.
10dB break up from 5kHz, and that's after applying a BSC. Ouch.
The only way I could listen to that is with active EQ to tame all that roller coaster ride happening.
It's a lot of work to make that driver sound good... to me anyway.
You've seen the response graph?This might do it
I understand that we all have different expectations about music reproduction.
Myself, I would not spend more than $5 on something looking like this.
Anyway, wish you good luck.
Not really, just looking around for 4R units. Thanks for pulling that up, I don't really know how to interpret most of the graphs. Frequency response is graphs and such only make sense if one can imagine hearing the graph, I need to build up some context and a better idea of what volume changes in the graph would sound like. Also, if you zoom into the graphs, the squiglles get larger. So really, one must have a good handle on making such calls, and I am not there yet. These builds and stuff, the graphs that I am getting in Winisd and HR will hopefully give me a good grounding in that 'context' one I start listening to the results and see the realtime graph at the same time. I hope that makes sense. Until then, if a speaker sounds bad to someone, I dont think I would add that to the listYou've seen the response graph?
You'd have to check the DCR for some different models. The Pluvia 11 is 5.4 ohm, so 2 of those in series would run a bit hotter than 2x 7.2 ohms. On the other hand, it's hard to say which side (amplifier or speaker) would reach its limit first, or whether power limits would be a real issue if it's for a small audience / low volume.
Although, being outdoors, you could go for 4 drivers per box to be safe. For that, the slightly smaller but much cheaper CHN-110 could be good. It may kind-of break the FR requirement though, if you decide to filter them so that only one speaker per side does tweeter duty.
Although, being outdoors, you could go for 4 drivers per box to be safe. For that, the slightly smaller but much cheaper CHN-110 could be good. It may kind-of break the FR requirement though, if you decide to filter them so that only one speaker per side does tweeter duty.
You'd have to check the DCR for some different models. The Pluvia 11 is 5.4 ohm, so 2 of those in series would run a bit hotter than 2x 7.2 ohms. On the other hand, it's hard to say which side (amplifier or speaker) would reach its limit first, or whether power limits would be a real issue if it's for a small audience / low volume.
Although, being outdoors, you could go for 4 drivers per box to be safe. For that, the slightly smaller but much cheaper CHN-110 could be good. It may kind-of break the FR requirement though, if you decide to filter them so that only one speaker per side does tweeter duty.
Thanks for that. It looks like the FR range just doesn’t offer anything in this power range. I am open to using an array per side but don’t have enough of a handle on driver interaction to attempt one
Are coaxial counted as FR? There seems to be more powerful units in the 6.5" sizes with a tweeter in the pole thingy. I had a listen to Pioneer and Phoenix 6.5" coaxial today. These are car audio. They both did very well to present and fill out the shop with enough volume, and Lata Mangeshkar didn't break into shrill? (does this happen due to cone breakup, as mentioned earlier in the thread)? These were up on a large sound board, so not a proper representation of a speaker box. I have the same Pioneers in the car and in the doors, they still sound good with Lata Ji. Wondering if I should get another pair of those and finally force some sort of cab
It looks like I would have to either start learning how to do an array using the ZXi-354 driver or investigate something like a FR DML
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