Pretty cheapy 2-way

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#41
Mario Pankov said:
I`ve used both - the SB13PFC is slightly better in the top end but has a breakup node that is audible (so more $$ for xover as well). But they`re for different use - the PFC is optimized for vented where the SDS works great in transmission lines & can also do sealed pretty well. Back then I used the square (truncated) frame PFCs as no round ones were available, a PITA if you don`t use a contractor with CNC to rout these for you.
Click to expand...
Maybe I will go for SB13PFC. Nice price now 25euro.
 
#43
Adason, I ordered a batch of those same 4" 16 ohm drivers when they were on clearance. Is your project written up anywhere? I was eyeing the quoted 1mm xmax and wondering if they would only be good as a midrange, but if you're pleased with their performance as a mid-woof that's encouraging.

For those considering the 830656 and the SDS160, I started out with the 830656 in a woofer+fullrange with the TC9FD18. I tried to use a PR with it but it ended up being tuned too low. It was a bit output limited (my fault for venting too low). I moved to the SDS160F25PR01 in a sealed box, and it has sounded much more authoritative 80 - 500 Hz, much more displacement. I have a sub below for either one, crossing electronically. My box modeling suggested SDS160 could go in 45 L vented at 33 Hz, and that might be kinda cool, depending on how big a box you want and how loud you want to play it.

This guy made a monitor with the SDS160 + TC7 2". He went sealed like I did (for playing with LF support), but I bet a ported version would be kinda cool, if you didn't need to drive it super loud. https://jaysspeakerpage.weebly.com/vagrant-monitor.html

Still looking out for a chance to use up the 830656s tho =)
 
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#44
LeifB60 said:
Maybe I will go for SB13PFC. Nice price now 25euro.
Click to expand...
There are several designs for MTMs using that driver on Parts Express Tech Talk and Midwest Audio Club (MAC/DIY). There's a good review on YouTube, too:


https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discu...-sb19st-c000-4-2-way-crossover-help-needed/p2

https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/55477-sb-acoustics-sb13pfc25-08-5-19

https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/65911-how-can-i-put-a-tmm-in-pcd

The shape of the old PFC drivers was indeed a pain and I just surface mounted mine, but the new versions are round, which fixes that issue. I haven't used the SB13, but if it's like the SB16 it has a break-up which can be fixed just with a small cap and resistor on the inductor. Even in Oz, those bits are cheap.

The SBPFC (13, 16 and 20) series are used in several well regarded Australian speaker kits, so it must be doing something right.

A possible advantage of the SB16 over the Peerless SDS160 is that it requires a much smaller vented cabinet.

Geoff
 
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#45
GeoffMillar said:
Det finns flera mönster för MTM som använder drivrutinen på Parts Express Tech Talk och Midwest Audio Club (MAC/DIY). Det finns en bra recension på YouTube också:


https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discu...-sb19st-c000-4-2-way-crossover-help-needed/p2

https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/55477-sb-acoustics-sb13pfc25-08-5-19

https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/65911-how-can-i-put-a-tmm-in-pcd

Formen på de gamla PFC-drivrutinerna var verkligen en smärta och jag har precis ytmonterat mina, men de nya versionerna är runda, vilket löser problemet. Jag har inte använt SB13, men om det är som SB16 så har den ett break-up som kan fixas bara med ett litet lock och motstånd på induktorn. Även i Oz är dessa bitar billiga.

SBPFC (13, 16 och 20)-serien används i flera välrenommerade australiensiska högtalarsatser, så det måste göras något rätt.

En möjlig fördel med SB16 framför Peerless SDS160 är att den kräver ett mycket mindre ventilerat skåp.

Geoff
Click to expand...
Ja.. Mycket lättare med ett mindre skåp. BR.
.
 
#47
Do not buy drivers and try to connect them. Buy some proven kit with a plan for the cross over network. Drivers without an x-over are useless. Keep the size of the housing as volume and frontal area are part of the x-over design. Developing a 2-way speaker needs years of experience, a lot of expensive passive parts to try from and measuring equipment. So take something that has been tried and proven to satisfy a number of competent people.
My advice would be to build a small quality speaker and combine it with one or two subwoofers, later, instead of building a large speaker for the same price and use speakers of lower quality.
Scanspeak discovery are speaker chassis with a very good price / performance ratio made near your home. Seas is another brand to consider. Speakers produced in Asia had an extreme increased in price over the last years and do not always come cheaper than quality made in Scandinavia. You just make fat people richer in the East. It has become hard to find real bargains there, never the less many still expect these Asia brands to be cheaper than made in Europe.
 
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#48
I'm thinking of another solution.
Using a full range driver and a bass driver.
SB 10PGC21, Dayton Audio PC83 or Visaton FRS 8 M is good FR. Only 15euro.
Which base can fit these?
Maybe a subwoofer?
 
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#49
Turbowatch2 said:
Do not buy drivers and try to connect them. Buy some proven kit with a plan for the cross over network. Drivers without an x-over are useless.
Click to expand...
Excellent advice: the only way to go if this is your first DIY project and want to be happy. Good quality drivers with a well designed crossover will sound good; expensive drivers with a poorly designed crossover will not.

Geoff
 
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#50
LeifB60 said:
Using a full range driver and a bass driver.
Click to expand...

cheap with visaton drivers (german forum): https://www.diy-hifi-forum.eu/forum...ls-kleine-Standbox-mit-Visaton-FRS8-und-W130S

slightly more expensive (but it's worth it!): https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/

you will find heaps of other examples, just search for WAW (woofer assisted widerange/widerange assisted woofer) or FAST (fullrange assisted subwoofer technology).
 
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#51
#53
AdamThorne said:
Adason, I ordered a batch of those same 4" 16 ohm drivers when they were on clearance. Is your project written up anywhere? I was eyeing the quoted 1mm xmax and wondering if they would only be good as a midrange, but if you're pleased with their performance as a mid-woof that's encouraging.
Click to expand...
PE 299-320 4" 16 ohm woofers,
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...-relatively-high-sensitivity-mtm-on-the-cheap

Adason built some line array's. Are they the same? See Post # 11 , Foster E100T10 Ribbon
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/foster-e100t10-ribbons-what-quality.113262/
 
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#55
AdamThorne said:
For those considering the 830656 and the SDS160, I started out with the 830656 in a woofer+fullrange with the TC9FD18. I tried to use a PR with it but it ended up being tuned too low. It was a bit output limited (my fault for venting too low). I moved to the SDS160F25PR01 in a sealed box, and it has sounded much more authoritative 80 - 500 Hz, much more displacement. I have a sub below for either one, crossing electronically. My box modeling suggested SDS160 could go in 45 L vented at 33 Hz, and that might be kinda cool, depending on how big a box you want and how loud you want to play it.

This guy made a monitor with the SDS160 + TC7 2". He went sealed like I did (for playing with LF support), but I bet a ported version would be kinda cool, if you didn't need to drive it super loud. https://jaysspeakerpage.weebly.com/vagrant-monitor.html

Still looking out for a chance to use up the 830656s tho =)
Click to expand...

from earlier posts in this thread- #12,#29 + more


#12
Peerless 830656

https://www.hifisound.de/Do-it-your...ap-Trick-275-Speaker-KIT-without-Cabinet.html

https://www.audiotinker.com/support-files/mltl_peerless_830656.pdf
==========
#29
Peerless 830656 & TC9FD18 FAST
https://www.audioknorz.com/projekte/vifast/
https://www.audioknorz.com/projekte/vifast-tqwt/

--
Peerless 830656 & XT25BG60 MTM
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...-overall-best-sounding-speaker-design-details

MTM box options, tower Audio Solutions Euphony 90 -Peerless 830656 & ScanSpeak D2604
(Google Translate)

https://www.hi-fi.ru/magazine/stere...sticheskie-sistemy-audiosolutions-euphony-90/
https://soundlab.lt/Euphony 90
https://diyaudio.pl/forum/praktyczn...-audio/22745-audio-solutions-euphony-90-clone

or page 48

https://tuxdoc.com/download/klangton-2011-05pdf_pdf
http://diy-hifi.eu/dexter.html
---
Peerless 830656 & DX25TG

https://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/diy-enceintes/da990-c-est-quasi-fini-t30019668.html
http://www.wilaudio.com/en/shelf/851-da990.html
===============

from Donhighend

TMM Peerless 830656 & XT25SC90-04

http://www.donhighend.de/?page_id=5022
 
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#57
If you do a fast with a small fullrange as the one mentioned you`d be limited by its output. Even if you add a helper tweeter in supertweeter mode you`d get low sensitivity and when cranked up - they`d bottom, they have low sensitivity and low xmax. The FRS-8M is more of a mid-tweeter in my opinion, it is a notch clearer than the FRS 8 which is a pretty average TV speaker. Indeed my old Panasonic TV outperformed a pair of needles with FRS 8.

I don`t know how far away of your budged would be the likes of a Fostex Fe87 or Tangband 1320 - I prefer the sound of the first but the TB is also a cool unit. Monacor also has a higher output high xmax fullrange SPH-30X but no experience with it.
 
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