I meant that with external rectification bridge, that board path portion near a diode that got hot and you marked it in a photo will not be in use anymore. In case it was also damaged it will not matter now.Can you elaborate on this point please ? finally what do you call the hot spot where the problem was ?
Sure, the zero center wire from the transformer will be directly connected to the minus C1 pin of the positive reg Ubib and to the plus C1 pin of the negative reg Ubib.the zero point of the transformer will be directly connected to the + and - terminals of the 2 c1 of the ubib? sorry but I translate and then I assimilate the diagram at the same time so it's a long process for me. 🤔
Thanks Salas it's much clearer for me now and thanks too for designing a rescue plan for me.
I kneel before your availability it's really great to be able to count on you.
I kneel before your availability it's really great to be able to count on you.
One last little question for this evening, I/V STD from Ian Canada has only + and - and Zero, the ultrabib was not adapted to my installation in fact, I would have had to find another circuit or modify it before as you showed me?
A pos and neg ultrabib section when fed from four wire 15 0 15 0 secondaries works fine with its independent on board diode bridges for making + 0 - V DC output rails. Each pair of AC transformer output wires to each Ubib AC in. Just connect both regulated output zeroes to the DC input zero point of the symmetrical rails DC input terminal of the load circuit.
In your case because the transformer is three terminal with center tap, dual bridges did not work properly and one diode overheated. But you can modify to one shared bridge with center zero tap scheme as instructed.
In your case because the transformer is three terminal with center tap, dual bridges did not work properly and one diode overheated. But you can modify to one shared bridge with center zero tap scheme as instructed.
That's an aspect of the beauty of DIY. Even mistakes are so useful.
Hi Salas,
been a long time between drinks, but can someone point me to the website or GB so i can sort some of these please? Pretty sure I have V1.1 boards about, but no idea where...
Had a look through the menu above but am yet to find where GB lists live...
Many Thanks
Drew.
been a long time between drinks, but can someone point me to the website or GB so i can sort some of these please? Pretty sure I have V1.1 boards about, but no idea where...
Had a look through the menu above but am yet to find where GB lists live...
Many Thanks
Drew.
Hello Salas!
It is very interesting question. If we devide UltraBib on 2 boards: rectifier bridge and main engine board (for more flexible layout). Is it critical if wires between rectifier bridge and main board will be 20 centimeters? Does wires length in this case so important as for wires between UltraBib and consumer?
It is very interesting question. If we devide UltraBib on 2 boards: rectifier bridge and main engine board (for more flexible layout). Is it critical if wires between rectifier bridge and main board will be 20 centimeters? Does wires length in this case so important as for wires between UltraBib and consumer?
I use polar AN Kaisei for the Vref (100uF) and output (47uF) with great results for analog circuits. However, for powering digital circuits I prefer polymers such as Nichicon R7 or Würth WCAP-PTG5.
This of course is my personal opinion (and taste) after some extensive listening comparisons.
Could you please share the voltage of the kaisei caps used at C2 (100 uf) and C3 (47 uf). I am planning to uprgade caps on my soekris 1021, Output is 12v.
For 12V output 16V elcos should be OK, however 25V should be better. If you decide to use 16V caps be careful when you first power up the circuit -- just make sure the trimmer is "shorted" and then gradually increase the output to 12V. I personally do not use trimmers but choose combination of LEDs and/or zeners for Vref.
Hi,
A noob here. I would like to build shunt regulator for ±12-15V. Is there a place i can order the PCB or kit for Ultrabib 1.3?
Also, in the first post it mentions
Is it possible to configure the Ultrabib to 3.3V? If so what changes would need to be done?
Thanks.
A noob here. I would like to build shunt regulator for ±12-15V. Is there a place i can order the PCB or kit for Ultrabib 1.3?
Also, in the first post it mentions
Can do 5V to 40V output without changing a thing in its parts configuration.
Is it possible to configure the Ultrabib to 3.3V? If so what changes would need to be done?
Thanks.
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For pcb and components see member's Tea-Bag posts for group buy etc.
To configure that low it takes logic level M2 Mosfet like the IRL530 (has low VGS) and single red LED. Performance is a bit goofier for the associated JFETs when going that that low nonetheless.
To configure that low it takes logic level M2 Mosfet like the IRL530 (has low VGS) and single red LED. Performance is a bit goofier for the associated JFETs when going that that low nonetheless.
One more question about UltraBib in extreme modes.
If load too low (for example 5-30mA), is it good idea to load UltraBib with some fake load through resistor? Which nominal resistor to choose for 3.8V, 100mA (+100mA extra, R1 = 3) load?
If load too low (for example 5-30mA), is it good idea to load UltraBib with some fake load through resistor? Which nominal resistor to choose for 3.8V, 100mA (+100mA extra, R1 = 3) load?
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