I'm about to build a 2-way ported speaker and I wanted to experiment the two following scan speak drivers:
Woofer 6.5'' : 18W/4531G00 or 18W/8531G00 (which would you suggest btw?)
Tweeter 1'' : D2904/710003
I'm not sure about where I should cross them over. I need to find the right balance between the two, but the Woofer is rated for 70 average Watts according to the datasheet and the Tweeter for 225 Watts!
I would say I'd love to cross them at 1 KHz in order not preserver a little the woofer which has less power rating, but I'm not sure if I should consider some other parameters.
Thanks
Woofer 6.5'' : 18W/4531G00 or 18W/8531G00 (which would you suggest btw?)
Tweeter 1'' : D2904/710003
I'm not sure about where I should cross them over. I need to find the right balance between the two, but the Woofer is rated for 70 average Watts according to the datasheet and the Tweeter for 225 Watts!
I would say I'd love to cross them at 1 KHz in order not preserver a little the woofer which has less power rating, but I'm not sure if I should consider some other parameters.
Thanks
Your question shows you are concerned only about the not so important stuff. My advice is to learn about crossover design using inexpensive drivers first, or go for a proven design. If you want to spend big € I don't think you can do better than this: Zaph|Audio - ZRT - Revelator Tower
If you want to start the first route come again and ask.
Ralf
If you want to start the first route come again and ask.
Ralf
I would choose the 18W/4531G00.
The crossover frequency should be in the area of 2-3 kHz.
The crossover frequency should be in the area of 2-3 kHz.
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Tweeter power is usually specified with high pass filter. Actual power of tweeter is less than 5W. Power is really not that important since most speakers are limited by excursion before maximal power is exceeded.
Hi Pipi,
The main difference is how much you may have to pad the tweeter. By using the 4531, I gained 3dB of sensitivity, which meant I had to pad the tweeter that much less. However, the tweeter itself is around 93-94 dB efficient.
By the time I added the BSC and low pass filter to the 4531 I ended up around 87 dB. If I had used the 8531 I would have ended up around 84 to get the same bass extension. If your tweeter is around 85-90 dB efficient this may make a better match, with less power loss in the tweeter pad.
I also agree with Keruskerfuerst. About 2-3kHz is the top end of this mid-woofer.
Best,
E
The main difference is how much you may have to pad the tweeter. By using the 4531, I gained 3dB of sensitivity, which meant I had to pad the tweeter that much less. However, the tweeter itself is around 93-94 dB efficient.
By the time I added the BSC and low pass filter to the 4531 I ended up around 87 dB. If I had used the 8531 I would have ended up around 84 to get the same bass extension. If your tweeter is around 85-90 dB efficient this may make a better match, with less power loss in the tweeter pad.
I also agree with Keruskerfuerst. About 2-3kHz is the top end of this mid-woofer.
Best,
E
how can you say that actual tweeter power is less than 5 Watts? it really depends on the crossover, the amplifier and the input signal I guess
I was very undecided between those two, why would you prefer the 4 ohm version? looks like it's more loud, but not as flat as the other
thanks erik, can you screenshot the simulation circuit you tested for BSC and LP filter?
guys, thanks for your tips, I think I'm moving towards those two drivers:
D3004/662000
18w-4531
What do you think of?
D3004/662000
18w-4531
What do you think of?
This 18W driver shows significant dispersion already at 2KHz, and this would be my maximum crossover frequency. The design posted before has a 1.7 KHz crossover. If you choose a robust tweeter, why aiming for a crossover frequency where the tweeter is omnidirectional and the mid is clearly not? The power response will not be good.
Have you seen the crossover in the Zaph design?
Ralf
Fools rush in where Angels fear to tread, IMO. 😀
6" bass plus tweeter is the hardest speaker in the repertoire, IMO.
Troels Gravesen, who knows a good driver from a hole in the road, always struggles with Scanspeak 6": DIY-Loudspeakers
It's the rising Scan response after 1kHz that makes life hard. Along with the usual 6" breakup problems around 4-6kHz.
But for sure the crossover design is the main issue. You MUST use an established design from an expert.
Apart from Zaph, here's a couple of good 6" ones, IMO:
Seas ER18RNX with 27TDFC
BRAGI
I have built enough 6" speakers to know they are hard to get right. IMO a third order filter BW3 works best on a flat baffle, but that's another topic.
6" bass plus tweeter is the hardest speaker in the repertoire, IMO.
Troels Gravesen, who knows a good driver from a hole in the road, always struggles with Scanspeak 6": DIY-Loudspeakers
It's the rising Scan response after 1kHz that makes life hard. Along with the usual 6" breakup problems around 4-6kHz.
But for sure the crossover design is the main issue. You MUST use an established design from an expert.
Apart from Zaph, here's a couple of good 6" ones, IMO:
Seas ER18RNX with 27TDFC
BRAGI
I have built enough 6" speakers to know they are hard to get right. IMO a third order filter BW3 works best on a flat baffle, but that's another topic.
I did, that's why I decided to move the tweeter to the 66200! grazie! I would cross it at 1.25 KHz with the woofer, what do you think?
system7 you are everywhere lol thanks for your tips!
I do want to try zaph's design, but trying to tune it to another tweeter which is from the same family but with some differences. I think I can handle the crossover design 😉
why do you think the BW3 works better with a flat baffle? personal experience or some strange physics behind?
System7 this project from Troels looks similar to the one I would like to make, what do you think of?
Illumina-66
I'm not comfortable sharing my crossover, but I am happy to share with you the measurements for the 18W/4531 in a cabinet. 🙂
Cabinet similar to the Kling/Ton NADA
NADA 2-Way Klang + Ton Kit Pair using Illuminator Drivers
My port splicing may be off, so don't go buying parts and stuff until you have verified for yourself. 🙂 I like the results I achieved though.
Best,
E
Cabinet similar to the Kling/Ton NADA
NADA 2-Way Klang + Ton Kit Pair using Illuminator Drivers
My port splicing may be off, so don't go buying parts and stuff until you have verified for yourself. 🙂 I like the results I achieved though.
Best,
E
By the way, Steve, I found this a very easy driver to work with. It does have a slight ringing around 5 kHz which may or may not be important, and a lot of inductance.
With judicious choice of the inductor and cap I found I could deal with the BSC and low pass all at once. 🙂
The harder part, I think you have alluded to, is finding a tweeter that comfortably goes down low enough. The XT25BG and it's ScanSpeak equivalent deep chamber ring-radiator are an affordable unit that can.
Best,
E
With judicious choice of the inductor and cap I found I could deal with the BSC and low pass all at once. 🙂
The harder part, I think you have alluded to, is finding a tweeter that comfortably goes down low enough. The XT25BG and it's ScanSpeak equivalent deep chamber ring-radiator are an affordable unit that can.
Best,
E
Such a simple crossover. Goes to show that 7" is a good choice for the OP
Some easy to use tweeters to consider, which can be crossed low - any TLab tweet, any Satori tweet and of course the Dayton RS28 (now discontinued so grab a pair quick)
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