Nice job. Wiring all looks correct.
Yes, some values are rather large. Be thankful you didn't go for an air-cored 5.8mH inductor. 😱 Think about glueing the bigger ones down to the board as well as using zip-ties. The big inductors can be screwed down. Inductors btw are coated so you have to sand the ends down to bare wire before soldering them.
There are no +/- on any of the components. I know, I was surprised initially as well.
Solder connections where they fit well/easily/logically. Snip of any extra length for neatness. No reason jumper wires can't simply be the same wire connecting the speakers to the amp.
For placement, I might slightly change the 2.8mH inductor in your 1st xo so that it sits perpendicular to both the other inductors on that board, like below. I'm nitpicking though. Think also about inductor placement between the 2 different xo boards. I don't know how close together they might end up inside the speaker.
Yes, some values are rather large. Be thankful you didn't go for an air-cored 5.8mH inductor. 😱 Think about glueing the bigger ones down to the board as well as using zip-ties. The big inductors can be screwed down. Inductors btw are coated so you have to sand the ends down to bare wire before soldering them.
There are no +/- on any of the components. I know, I was surprised initially as well.
Solder connections where they fit well/easily/logically. Snip of any extra length for neatness. No reason jumper wires can't simply be the same wire connecting the speakers to the amp.
For placement, I might slightly change the 2.8mH inductor in your 1st xo so that it sits perpendicular to both the other inductors on that board, like below. I'm nitpicking though. Think also about inductor placement between the 2 different xo boards. I don't know how close together they might end up inside the speaker.
Attachments
Thank you for the approval; I am excited to get started on this now!
Regarding the positioning, I was referring to this drawing, and thought that my inductors are layed out like in figure 6:
The space inside the cabinet is a rectangular box, with four large sides being about 7" x 9", and the two shorter ones about 7" x 7". I will probably position the two boards so that they sit on a 90 degree angle to another (this would make the internal wiring easier). The sides of the crossovers that would be at the angle, e.g. closest to another, would be the left side of the first board (H, M) and the right side of the second board (T). It's probably best to post a picture before I mount them permanently. Again, it would be "good" according to the drawing posted above, assuming that I can consider my large inductors to be like the right one in figure 6, or am I seeing that wrong?
I will take my time to put this all together, but hopefully will post more images very soon.
Regarding the positioning, I was referring to this drawing, and thought that my inductors are layed out like in figure 6:

The space inside the cabinet is a rectangular box, with four large sides being about 7" x 9", and the two shorter ones about 7" x 7". I will probably position the two boards so that they sit on a 90 degree angle to another (this would make the internal wiring easier). The sides of the crossovers that would be at the angle, e.g. closest to another, would be the left side of the first board (H, M) and the right side of the second board (T). It's probably best to post a picture before I mount them permanently. Again, it would be "good" according to the drawing posted above, assuming that I can consider my large inductors to be like the right one in figure 6, or am I seeing that wrong?
I will take my time to put this all together, but hopefully will post more images very soon.
Like I said, I was nitpicking. Picture #6 with another red inductor on the right. That's what I was suggesting. Right now the bottom 2 look good but the top left one is in a sort of odd 45 degree position. Nitpicking.
Obviously, I read the cored inductors the same as you.
The 2 boards' in-cabinet placement sounds like #6 again. Looks like you've got this figured out.
Obviously, I read the cored inductors the same as you.
The 2 boards' in-cabinet placement sounds like #6 again. Looks like you've got this figured out.
I see what you mean now. Whether that's possible, I don't know, since I don't have a lot of space on the board.
First I have to modify the speaker cases though--the "hole" where the active unit was, left some open slot in the front and the back entirely open. I'll do some woodworking first now... and will set the binding posts into the new back panel, too.
I'll post updates as they come along 🙂
First I have to modify the speaker cases though--the "hole" where the active unit was, left some open slot in the front and the back entirely open. I'll do some woodworking first now... and will set the binding posts into the new back panel, too.
I'll post updates as they come along 🙂
Hi all,
Does anyone know if Sound Dynamics speaker xovers, primarily 300Ti, use a yellow + input wire and black - output wire for connections to speaker binding posts?
Thanks,
henmrylrjr
Does anyone know if Sound Dynamics speaker xovers, primarily 300Ti, use a yellow + input wire and black - output wire for connections to speaker binding posts?
Thanks,
henmrylrjr
I see what you mean now. Whether that's possible, I don't know, since I don't have a lot of space on the board.
Here's a tip: don't restrict yourself to thinking in just 2 dimensions. You can stack a cap and/or resistors on top of a coil if you have to.
I just learned, from an extremely experienced stereo repair person who has owned a shop in Ct. for maybe 30 years, that there are standards for xover wiring. Yellow is + and black is - for amp inputs on the board. I showed him my outboard xover and he said I wired it like house wire, Black for + and white for -. I am going to put yellow shrink wrap on the + wires and black shrink wrap on the - wires for future clarity.
henrylrjr
henrylrjr
I am finally done!
I took a lot of pictures during the process and decided to make a little journey web page. You can find the entire build process with images here:
DrTebi's Journal - T+A A3D Active to Passive Speaker Conversion
Please take a look and let me know what you think!
I spent a lot of time getting the cabinets ready for the crossovers, and then about 2-3 days building the crossovers. Overall I am very happy, and a big thank you goes out to all of the nice people here at diyAudio that helped me realize this project!
I took a lot of pictures during the process and decided to make a little journey web page. You can find the entire build process with images here:
DrTebi's Journal - T+A A3D Active to Passive Speaker Conversion
Please take a look and let me know what you think!
I spent a lot of time getting the cabinets ready for the crossovers, and then about 2-3 days building the crossovers. Overall I am very happy, and a big thank you goes out to all of the nice people here at diyAudio that helped me realize this project!




Congradulations!
A very well executed 1st set of xo's. Very nicely done.
And so glad to hear that they sounded great on your 1st attempt.
So....... now that you've got your feet wet, what speaker are you planning to build next? 😀
A very well executed 1st set of xo's. Very nicely done.
And so glad to hear that they sounded great on your 1st attempt.
So....... now that you've got your feet wet, what speaker are you planning to build next? 😀
So....... now that you've got your feet wet, what speaker are you planning to build next? 😀
Funny you should ask that question 🙂
I have already been thinking about that before I even started the active to passive speaker conversion. I figured if my project would not work out, what could I do instead?
I find line-arrays very interesting, and also full-range speakers (with maybe an additional subwoofer). But I think I should really try to go to one of the diy audio shows or even a "normal" audio show, so I can get an idea of what which speaker design sounds like.
You should perhaps head over to the PE board as well. They have at least a few sort of get-togethers/build contests around the country every year.
Tech Talk Forum
And why do I think there was an audio show somewhere in California recently?
Tech Talk Forum
And why do I think there was an audio show somewhere in California recently?
You should perhaps head over to the PE board as well. They have at least a few sort of get-togethers/build contests around the country every year.
Tech Talk Forum
And why do I think there was an audio show somewhere in California recently?
There was one in Milbrea (California Audio Show - California Audio Show – San Francisco), but I think it was rather small, and no DIY stuff as far as I know.
With PE board you mean Parts-Express?
I remembered it when I woke up this morning:
T.H.E. Show, Newport Beach
T.H.E. Show Newport Beach May 30 - June 1, 2014 Entrance
Looks pretty big. Make your plans for 2014 now. 😀
T.H.E. Show, Newport Beach
T.H.E. Show Newport Beach May 30 - June 1, 2014 Entrance
Looks pretty big. Make your plans for 2014 now. 😀
Congradulations!
A very well executed 1st set of xo's. Very nicely done.
And so glad to hear that they sounded great on your 1st attempt.
So....... now that you've got your feet wet, what speaker are you planning to build next? 😀
Back here after a year or so... still happy with my active to passive conversion.
I am planning to build another speaker. A bass cabinet for a bass amplifier (aka bass guitar). Time to search this forum for some clues 🙂
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