Secrets of binding posts

Since these aren't insulated they are designed for a wooden cabinet I think. The fittings are perhaps too narrow for MDF or similar fibre boards as they may push through. There ought to be a flat washer for the inside of the cabinet, then nut/crinkle washer/tab/crinkle washer/nut for a vibration-secure fixing of the wire tab.

Perhaps the tab is supposed to act as big washer, but then it won't have a solid connection to the stud. You can solder to the tip if you want, but that's a pain to disassemble.
 
The electrons flowing thru different kind of metals and thru soldered joints is a BIG PROBLEM .... in the meanwhile I prefer direct contact
So you use raw copper case and pins transistors connected by twisted wires (no soldering) to pure copper terminals (unplated) to copper wires (no big deal here 😀) to copper binding posts (unplated) to copper wires to copper speaker terminals to pure copper tinsel wires which are twisted to voice coil leads?

I LOVE it when people keeps consistent with own beliefs.
Congratulations.

Won´t even ASK about the zillion soldered joints inside your amplifier and anything in the long path between microphone diaphragm picking original Audio and whateverb reaches your power transistors.
Or Tubes, same thing).

I wonder how we survive such a tin and lead (or tin alone) polluted environment and even worse, why all those galvanic joints (which are batteries) in series do not add up to a couple deadly KV cooking our hearts when we grab an apparently harmless Audio connector.
 
It's hard to reply to such an enlightened mind :clown:
Let's keep it from the amplifier to the speaker path, as we like to think of black boxes with one wire in-one wire out
We have those binding posts on amplifier's backplate- if it's a SS one they are attached to the PCB part were the delay relay is located; if it's a tube one, after many meters of copper! Luckily the electromagnetic field travels at nearly the speed of light...
So we got the speaker cable that gets attached to speaker terminals, if it's an old speaker. If we're lucky, and clever, the crossover would be outside the speaker box ( inside is a BIG PROBLEM) in the between from the amp and the speakers. So you would have: speaker's binding posts, cable ( or not, there are often crossovers attached directly to input...), often you'll find some fastons, then there are the PCB traces, again cable going to speaker terminals, again a crimped faston, then a little piece of metal connecting to the voice coil...in between a little ( twisted...) flexible cable.
Now tell me what you're gonna do !?! I do often use mammouth to join together all the 'pieces'...
 
works well with passive components and solid wire, as the two leads are inserted fully and there's double striction.
But, don't get me wrong, I use the binding posts equipped with the amplifiers as I don't care....but from amplifier to speaker is another matter 😱
 

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So soldered joints are a BIG PROBLEM, and then internal crossovers in speakers are a BIG PROBLEM. Please describe the BIG PROBLEMS so we know what they are. In all my decades in pro audio I never encountered a passive speaker with external crossovers, and yet most of them seem to sound OK.
 
Those binding posts look really cheap. Bright fake-gold color plating, over aluminum or some type of pot metal base material.
HiFiCollective are pretty good on the quality of the products they sell. Which is why they are one of my preferred suppliers.
But the other criticisms are valid, IMO. Plus, if you use plugs, there is another metal to metal barrier to overcome.
 
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Link to website: 012-0170 Jantzen Binding Post M5 / 38mm Pair, Gold plated, red / black | Hifi Collective

Maybe the gold is real, they don't say anything about the base metal underneath. They are described as "low cost" rather than using the term "cheap." From the looks of the leftover machining marks on the metal it looks like cheap junk Jantzen might have outsourced from China. Hopefully, they checked to make sure the gold is real. Still likely aluminum or pot metal underneath the plating, easy enough to check with a small file to remove a little plating from a spot that won't show. Of course, if the base metal is something solder won't stick to then they had to be plated with something to make them solderable.

A reason I suspect they are junk is I have some cheap banana posts from Amazon that look very similar. The gold color on mine did not match up with real gold plating if held in the light. And filing off a bit of the plating revealed soft-ish white base metal, probably aluminum judging from the light weight.