Yep...what they said. When creating resistor part numbers using the Digikey catalog, they give you a template and a chart of values. You then build the part number yourself, but you have to be careful to remember the "k" or "m" for kilo-ohms and mega-ohms. It looks like you or the chap that gave you the substituted part number dropped the "k". As George said, the resistor is supposed to be 150,000 ohms and you have 160 ohms.
Russ
Sorry- I was a bit slow with the typing.....
The resistor in your pic is labelled 160 ohms 5%. What you needed was 160K ohms 5% ie 160,000 ohms (or something in that range, as George and others have pointed out).
It takes a bit longer, but even when using a PCB, I like to 'cross off' each component on the schematic as I go. Once the parts are n the board, they tend to 'look right' to me, even if they are not.
Cheers
John
PS- You might want to re-check the other board component values as well before you power up.
Don't worry-it's easier for 'fresh eyes' to spot a problem you may have stared at for days.HEADinaJAR said:
The resistor in your pic is labelled 160 ohms 5%. What you needed was 160K ohms 5% ie 160,000 ohms (or something in that range, as George and others have pointed out).
It takes a bit longer, but even when using a PCB, I like to 'cross off' each component on the schematic as I go. Once the parts are n the board, they tend to 'look right' to me, even if they are not.
Cheers
John
PS- You might want to re-check the other board component values as well before you power up.
Off-topic- sorry..HEADinaJAR said:
It would be SO nice if we had Small Packet shipping within Canada (and media mail as well). I've had to explain this problem dozens of times to Canadian eBay buyers when asked why the shipping was more inside Canada than to the US.
I shipped an item from BC to Holland recently for about 60% of what it would have cost to send it to Ontario.
To make that order from John @ PacificTV worthwhile, you need to buy more tubes!
😉 😉
Sorry guys! The 'K' must have fallen off when I powered up the amp! 
Or those thievin' postal clerks stole it.
It took me till now to realize it was only a 160 ohm.
I had a nice little ebay business selling CDs, video games and DVDs. Before 2005 (I think) you could send anything lite and under an inch in thickness via letter mail. Then Canada Post started refusing anything but paper as letter mail. If you go on the ebay forums they estimate this was a 2 billion dollar business in Canada that Canada Post destroyed. Just can't compete with sellers in the US. In the daytime that's where I work, Canada Post.
Or those thievin' postal clerks stole it. It took me till now to realize it was only a 160 ohm.
I had a nice little ebay business selling CDs, video games and DVDs. Before 2005 (I think) you could send anything lite and under an inch in thickness via letter mail. Then Canada Post started refusing anything but paper as letter mail. If you go on the ebay forums they estimate this was a 2 billion dollar business in Canada that Canada Post destroyed. Just can't compete with sellers in the US. In the daytime that's where I work, Canada Post.
That's got it. I have a working amp! Sounds pretty good through my old Technics speakers. I have a set of Polk Monitor 7's to try next.
I rechecked the values on the other substitutions and they are correct.
Thanks a lot folks. That's one more hurdle behind me. On to the next.
I rechecked the values on the other substitutions and they are correct.
Thanks a lot folks. That's one more hurdle behind me. On to the next.
Wow! I've got about 5 hours listening in and it's amazing. There seems to be a separation between the instruments playing together. Like each instrument has it's own speaker at it's own frequency. Each stands out on it's own. What a difference from my Yamaha Natural Sound amp.
Steely Dan-Everything Must Go, XTC-Easter Theatre, Destroyer-Painter In My Pocket, Audience-House on the Hill, John Coltrane-My Favourite Things. All songs I've been listening to for years, brand new today.This means hours of ripping CDs to FLAC.
I still haven't started the chassis. I have an aluminum plate and some oak sitting there.
Thank you much George. Worth ever penny.
Steely Dan-Everything Must Go, XTC-Easter Theatre, Destroyer-Painter In My Pocket, Audience-House on the Hill, John Coltrane-My Favourite Things. All songs I've been listening to for years, brand new today.This means hours of ripping CDs to FLAC.
I still haven't started the chassis. I have an aluminum plate and some oak sitting there.
Thank you much George. Worth ever penny.
Well that means that the "natural sound" isn't, or we all prefer something that isn't quite natural.
Warning!!!!! Listening to the amp before finishing it is a sure fire way to see that it never gets finished. I have more than one amp here that is in the PC board and transformers state. There is also a stack of aluminum, lexan, and oak already cut and waiting for said PC board and transformers. They have been like this since January.....of 2008!
Good luck, and be extremely careful of an unprotected PC board it will shock the **** out of you. Trust me it isn't fun, and can be deadly.
HEADinaJAR said:
What model technics speakers are they? Currently that is all I have around. They will be my test subjects for when I finally get my simplese up and running.
HEADinaJAR said:
Wait until you get bit by the vinyl bug. Tube amps and rekkids, LPs, vinyl, or whatever you call them are a match made in heaven.
HEADinaJAR said:
Agreed. Great circuit with painstaking attention paid to the PCB layout, very flexible, and easy to customize. Kudos to George!
HEADinaJAR said:
Although not the Simple SE, here is the summary of the Tubelab SE listening session in my own system:
http://www.tubelab.com/Sound Checks.htm
Enjoy,
nic6paul: they are SB-L71 3-ways.
korneluk: 106db....man! My Polks are 89db, I think. It's sad story that all my vinyl has been sitting in storage for years. I'm just building a set of Recession Busters (Vifa drivers) as a warm-up to building speakers to go with my Simple SE, so a phono pre might be a ways off.
korneluk: 106db....man! My Polks are 89db, I think. It's sad story that all my vinyl has been sitting in storage for years. I'm just building a set of Recession Busters (Vifa drivers) as a warm-up to building speakers to go with my Simple SE, so a phono pre might be a ways off.
The "stuff" that is bolted to the white board in the pictures is a Simple SE. It was tested that day where we realized that the massive Hammond 1628SEA OPT's are not the hot ticket with super sensitive speakers.
I just powered up my simple se without the output trans connected to make sure all was well and it powered up for about 7 or 8 seconds then the jj GZ38 flashed and crackled and blew the fuse. . . .
Would this be the tube thats faulty guys? its new.
All connections and components are fitted correctly and seem to be fine.
Would this be the tube thats faulty guys? its new.
All connections and components are fitted correctly and seem to be fine.
I don't know which tube the jj GZ38 is? Is it the rectifier?
Did you try what Tubelab suggests in post# 7:
Remove all tubes, power up the amp. The fuse should not blow. Unplug the amp and wait for all caps to discharge (a few minutes). Disconnect the choke (L1). Connect the black lead of a volt meter to GROUND. This is easily done by inserting the probe into the unused T1-red-yel screw terminal and gently tightening the screw. If your voltmeter uses clips, clip on to one of the ground side of either large white cathode resistor (the end connected to the fat ground trace on the top side of the board). Connect the red voltmeter lead to to the L1 terminal closest to the T1-red-yel terminal. Set the voltmeter to its highest DC voltage range. Insert the rectifier tube (no other tubes). Power up the amp. There should be a brief delay and the voltage should rise to over 500 volts. The fuse should not blow. If it does, the rectifier tube is likely bad. Unplug the amp and wait for the voltage to drop to a few volts. If you got this far, re connect the choke, but disconnect both output transformers. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the T3-PRI terminal closest to the large black capacitor. Repeat the test. The voltage should again rise to over 500 volts without blowing the fuse. A blown fuse is likely a bad rectifier tube, but it could be caused by a bad electrolytic cap (I have never seen it happen). Finally reconnect everything, and insert the 12AT7. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the lead of R4 closest to the edge of the board. Power up again. The voltage should be slightly less than before. Any fuse blowing still points to the rectifier tube since nothing draws any serious current yet. ?
Did you try what Tubelab suggests in post# 7:
Remove all tubes, power up the amp. The fuse should not blow. Unplug the amp and wait for all caps to discharge (a few minutes). Disconnect the choke (L1). Connect the black lead of a volt meter to GROUND. This is easily done by inserting the probe into the unused T1-red-yel screw terminal and gently tightening the screw. If your voltmeter uses clips, clip on to one of the ground side of either large white cathode resistor (the end connected to the fat ground trace on the top side of the board). Connect the red voltmeter lead to to the L1 terminal closest to the T1-red-yel terminal. Set the voltmeter to its highest DC voltage range. Insert the rectifier tube (no other tubes). Power up the amp. There should be a brief delay and the voltage should rise to over 500 volts. The fuse should not blow. If it does, the rectifier tube is likely bad. Unplug the amp and wait for the voltage to drop to a few volts. If you got this far, re connect the choke, but disconnect both output transformers. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the T3-PRI terminal closest to the large black capacitor. Repeat the test. The voltage should again rise to over 500 volts without blowing the fuse. A blown fuse is likely a bad rectifier tube, but it could be caused by a bad electrolytic cap (I have never seen it happen). Finally reconnect everything, and insert the 12AT7. Connect the red voltmeter lead to the lead of R4 closest to the edge of the board. Power up again. The voltage should be slightly less than before. Any fuse blowing still points to the rectifier tube since nothing draws any serious current yet. ?
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