wadest if you can post a schematic of one of the MC power supplies and an example of the D series that would be great. Mine still works but if it ever blows that would come in handy.
soundstream early schematics
sheep, i'm sorry but i can't find a power supply schematic for either. if i run acros them i will post them. all i have now aere the amp schematics for the Class A 40 and the MC300. i wil send them.
sheep, i'm sorry but i can't find a power supply schematic for either. if i run acros them i will post them. all i have now aere the amp schematics for the Class A 40 and the MC300. i wil send them.
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sheep,Wade great can you post the power supply schematic for the CA50?
How did the D50,D100,D200 differ?
Do you have the schematics for them as well?
Thanks I never thought I would see this day talking to designers of gear from my past.
all of the D series you mentioned were pretty much the same just more switching transistors and more output transistors.
MOER, I get it now. you've just been putting me on. this whole thing is like a big joke. i have to say, pretty good. Ha, you almost had me. LOL, LOL, LOLNo such thing as a class A amplifier for car audio. The dissipation is too high even on a 25w/ch 4 ohm amplifier.
The diode - 1 ohm only allows you to set idling current a little higher than when using 0.x ohm emitter resistors.
The SOA of a TIP102 allows the device to pull 2.7A at 30Vceo and 2A at 40Vceo
The SOA of a TIP142 allows the device to pull 4A at 30Vceo and 2.8A at 40Vceo
So where you come by your numbers that the TO220 device has better SOA than the TO218 is beyond my understanding.
All you have to do is download the data sheets
Over the past 11 years we have repaired about 400 Soundstream amplifiers of the Reference series, about 150 pcs of the first MC series.
So 400 pcs of 17K pcs is 2.3% and I guess that many others have repaired Reference series.
So 1-2% is wishfull thinking at best.
Depending on the particular reference amplifier we have repaired, some exhibit gross crossover THD (Scope at 20KHz with 4 ohm load at 4v peak to peak on a scope whilst others have no notch on the waveform and idle too high - thus blown devices as these Darlingtons are pretty bad as far as thermal stability is concerned
thanks
RUB1000-2
I'd like to thank everyone for their thoughts and thorough knowledge on switching power-supplies and amplifiers 🙂
I received the NOS made in Japan Toshiba final drivers from JR and FEB's.
I replaced all the capacitors along the audio path and on the FEB's with ELNA audio grade.
Replaced the 12v side of the power-supply with low ESR Panasonic caps.
Replaced the filtering side of the powersupply with Panasonic caps.
Replaced all the double diode's
Replaced all the MOSFET's with NDP7060's along with the 3.3 ohm gate resistors.
Replaced the 1k resistors coming from the PWM and the PWM.
Replaced the Zeners for the +/-17v and everything in its path.
Replaced all the op-amps.
Results....
Rail +49/-49
Op-amp power +16.7/-17
DC off-set Rt 3.5mv Lt 2mv
Idle current 1.5 amps.
Everything stays cold playing it on my studio monitors. (25amp power-supply)
Sounds better with the 2SC3281and 2SA1302 installed compared to the C5200's and A1943's. Could have been the new FEB's though!
On the board it has DBERRY next to the board numbers (Any one know who this is?) and it does say Handcrafted in the US on the bottom cover.
Well, I'm glad I stuck with it and pretty much turned it back to a Rubicon 1002. Thanks all!
😀
I'd like to thank everyone for their thoughts and thorough knowledge on switching power-supplies and amplifiers 🙂
I received the NOS made in Japan Toshiba final drivers from JR and FEB's.
I replaced all the capacitors along the audio path and on the FEB's with ELNA audio grade.
Replaced the 12v side of the power-supply with low ESR Panasonic caps.
Replaced the filtering side of the powersupply with Panasonic caps.
Replaced all the double diode's
Replaced all the MOSFET's with NDP7060's along with the 3.3 ohm gate resistors.
Replaced the 1k resistors coming from the PWM and the PWM.
Replaced the Zeners for the +/-17v and everything in its path.
Replaced all the op-amps.
Results....
Rail +49/-49
Op-amp power +16.7/-17
DC off-set Rt 3.5mv Lt 2mv
Idle current 1.5 amps.
Everything stays cold playing it on my studio monitors. (25amp power-supply)
Sounds better with the 2SC3281and 2SA1302 installed compared to the C5200's and A1943's. Could have been the new FEB's though!
On the board it has DBERRY next to the board numbers (Any one know who this is?) and it does say Handcrafted in the US on the bottom cover.
Well, I'm glad I stuck with it and pretty much turned it back to a Rubicon 1002. Thanks all!
😀
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My favorite high and mid range amplifier was the Soundstream Class A 6.0
I ran DIY waveguides (Altec 802D compression drivers) under the dash and A/D/S midranges in the kick panels. I used a Reference 500 to run a pair of Peavey 12" Black Widow midbasses in the rear seat side panels. The bass was handled by two Kicker Comp 15s driven by a Hi Fonics Colossus (the old school one). Unfortunately that car (1984 Dodge Shelby Charger) got stolen and was never recovered.
I ran DIY waveguides (Altec 802D compression drivers) under the dash and A/D/S midranges in the kick panels. I used a Reference 500 to run a pair of Peavey 12" Black Widow midbasses in the rear seat side panels. The bass was handled by two Kicker Comp 15s driven by a Hi Fonics Colossus (the old school one). Unfortunately that car (1984 Dodge Shelby Charger) got stolen and was never recovered.
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Reference 700s pushing a Boston Acoustics G312-4
I was looking for a woofer that didn’t need so much power to run it like the Pioneer TS-W2501D4 10 inch I have, (rated at 800 W RMS - 2500 max). It could sure take a beating! Plus it was dual 4 ohm coils to add the extra heat.
I ran across this brand new Boston 12 inch woofer on E-Bay and won it!
The power to drive it says 375 W RMS with an X-max of 2 ¾ inches!
Only needs a 1 cubic ft sealed box…
Hopefully the Reference 700s will stay a little cooler pushing this thing.
Oh, $30.99!!! I know the guy wasn’t happy seeing go for so little. 😀
I was looking for a woofer that didn’t need so much power to run it like the Pioneer TS-W2501D4 10 inch I have, (rated at 800 W RMS - 2500 max). It could sure take a beating! Plus it was dual 4 ohm coils to add the extra heat.
I ran across this brand new Boston 12 inch woofer on E-Bay and won it!
The power to drive it says 375 W RMS with an X-max of 2 ¾ inches!
Only needs a 1 cubic ft sealed box…
Hopefully the Reference 700s will stay a little cooler pushing this thing.
Oh, $30.99!!! I know the guy wasn’t happy seeing go for so little. 😀
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Hello Randal123, yes I designed all of the Reference Series amps. Is there something particualar you want to know about it? Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.Hi!
did you design the Reference 644s as well?
thankx!
Thanks
Does anyone have the reference 700sx schematic?
If not, does anyone know if it's the same as the 700s?
If not, does anyone know if it's the same as the 700s?
Thanks. I've never seen the airbass module installed in any amp. Is the 'remote level' control connector for the airbass module on the schematic or was the airbass module integrated into the board on the SX version amps?
Perry, Actually the 's' series had a connector and switch for a wired plug in remote volume control. The 'sx' hade a connector and switch for the Airbass which was a wireless remote volume control. I don't have a schematic for the Airbass. It was designed by some guy in South Africa. I am sending you a copy of the Airbass owners manual just fo reference.
thanks, wadest or Wade Stewart
thanks, wadest or Wade Stewart
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Hi Perry I have a complete air bass module and remote, I can upload some hi res images of the board if you wish?
vincegironda:
I appreciate the offer. I don't need them but they are pretty rare and some of the other members may want to see what it looks like. If you're going to post more than a couple, it may be better to start a new thread.
wadest:
There doesn't seem to be any difference in the 'S' amps with the header and the 'SX' amps except that the SX had mounting bosses in the cover for the airbass module. Is that correct?
I appreciate the offer. I don't need them but they are pretty rare and some of the other members may want to see what it looks like. If you're going to post more than a couple, it may be better to start a new thread.
wadest:
There doesn't seem to be any difference in the 'S' amps with the header and the 'SX' amps except that the SX had mounting bosses in the cover for the airbass module. Is that correct?
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