Ill try and find a screw type distribution block then. Thanks. Does the brand or material matter? Many chinese ones dont detail the metal(s) used for the block.
I don't know what's available. Stick with the more reputable brands and read reviews. Maybe someone here has some suggestions for makes/models to avoid.
If you find and use the types that use ring terminals (and properly install the rings onto the wire), those are likely to give the best electrical connection (as long as you don't over-tighten and break the plastic).
If you find and use the types that use ring terminals (and properly install the rings onto the wire), those are likely to give the best electrical connection (as long as you don't over-tighten and break the plastic).
Well I'm thrilled to report that I have the 404 installed and for now it's only driving a 1.5ohm subwoofer on channels 3-4 mono/bridged and with the LP crossover setting for this channel. I wasn't sure if I should turn on hawkins bass control or not. When it's off(subsonic mode) the amp runs on high power(Red LED), but when I turn on hawkins bass control it starts alternating between high power and high current(orange LED) every couple seconds and with each high current, it makes the subwoofer boom. What could be causing this odd behavior? I immediately shut the car off after a 2-3 of these cycles and didn't play any music in hawkins mode. In subsonic mode music works fine and the amp behaves normal.
It appears (from the diagram) that the HC/HP circuit should latch in HC when it's triggered. For those who use SS amps, is the HC supposed to revert back to HP without cycling power?
Any tests I can perform on my end? In subsonic mode it's been working well, but would like to get more power using the HC mode.
I don't know, which is why I'm asking. Anyone with experience with the Rubicon line should reply. Are the Rubicon line of amps supposed to latch in HC after switching from HP like the Reference line? They use a different circuit.
I tried without any sub connected and the amp stayed in HP mode with hawkins enabled. So it’s something related to the amp activating HC current mode. Why would the amp activate HC mode when hawkings is enabled but not with subsonic enabled when it’s the same sub and the same other settings?
The Hawkins could be boosting in a range of frequencies where the impedance is low. The subsonic could be reducing the signal in that range.
It won't switch into HC without a speaker load. It only switches when the voltage across the emitter resistors is enough to switch the driver transistor on.
It won't switch into HC without a speaker load. It only switches when the voltage across the emitter resistors is enough to switch the driver transistor on.
I believe I found and solved the problem. The last time some odd behavior was happening the underlying problem was a switch. So I thought maybe that's the problem this time. So even though applying pressure to the subsonic/hawkins switch didn't do anything I thought "what the heck". I applied some D5 to it. moved it back and forth twice and left it on hawkins. Voila! It stays on HP and the bass is noticeably louder. Now onto a new problem. It appears the boost pot shaft is also broken. When I turned it nothing changed and it can easily do a full 360 degree turn. I'm guessing the plastic is cracked on this one too. Not sure if I will go through the trouble to uninstall the amp from the car to fix it. Unfortunately, I do think the boost is set a bit high. How can I know if the amp is clipping with a sub? It doesn't have an indicator like my 702.
Spoke too soon. The odd behavior continues but is different this time. The amp and subwoofer play fine for the most part in hawkins mode but when the stereo is off I have noticed the subwoofer loud booming for a split second or even playing a loud low tone for about a second or two. It happens about once every 5 mins. Also I have noticed when I park the car and check the amp in the trunk that sometimes its in HP mode and other times in HC mode.
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Hi Perry. I have never experienced this behavior when it’s been in supersonic mode. I moved the switch back and forth a few times and left it in hawkins mode and problem appears to be solved.
The switches in these amps are a big problem. If you ultimately determine that the switches are a problem, you may be able to find replacements but I don't have part numbers but someone else here may. As a test (if the problem returns), you could remove the switch and jump out the relative terminals with a wire.
After days of testing the issue is fully resolved. While installing the front speakers to the amp I tried to adjust the cover pots and now they seem stuck. Is it possible that all these weeks of using the amp after decades of storage has dried up the contacts on the pots with the current or heat that the amp produces? I think I may have to pull the amp to Deoxit all the pots.
I've never seen rotary pots freeze (as in won't rotate), except for the old Rockford brass and aluminum pots. Are you sure that the pots didn't somehow get out of alignment?
When I applied deoxit to the noisy input level pots I remember turning all of them and they turned smoothly. Now the two xover (HP and LP) pots are hard to turn and Im afraid of breaking the plastic piece by forcing it like what happened to the boost pot. Not sure what alignment issue there could be now if they worked fine prior to installing them in the car.
If the shaft of the knob is plastic and that's what you're worried about breaking, remove that and use an allen wrench (with appropriate force) to turn the pots individually to see if it's one or more of the stack that's stuck. Or if they're all just a bit hard to turn.
Doing this, you may get them out of alignment so do this with the amp off. Getting them back in alignment is easy enough but don't power the amp up until they're back in alignment.
Doing this, you may get them out of alignment so do this with the amp off. Getting them back in alignment is easy enough but don't power the amp up until they're back in alignment.
I went ahead and uninstalled the amp. Immediately after applying d5 the pots softened up. So I just went ahead and applied it to all the pots and switches on the board. I also glued the shaft like I did the last one. Now the amp is working like new. No issues at all 🤞