Dear analog_sa......
I sinceerly apologize.
Seems I remembered wrong 😴 and misinformed you.
The measurement I gave you on the length obviously is for the Forte S.
I was sure, I ordered for the Forte, but looking at the receipt, it seems I made a "brainfarth".
Again,,,, so very sorry.
| Quantity | AVAILABILITY | Article | Total | |
| 2 | 1 WEEK | EAT DRIVE BELT | € 70,00 | |
| MODEL: EAT Forte S (Two pieces) | +€ 46,00 | |||
Subtotal | € 70,00 | |||
Payment cost | € 0,00 | |||
Delivery | € 50,00 | |||
Total | € 120,00 |
| 21% (21,00%) | € 20,83 |
| VAT total | € 20,83 |
I really hope, you´ll be able to return them and get the right ones.
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Inner tubes are not a uniform thickness. You will have speed issues if you try and use one. The best belts are precision ground to size to control the thickness.
BillWojo
At least Schwalbe and some Kenda tubes do in my experience! They are from better rubbers and if you inflate one in the air you'll see they are very uniform.Besides they need to keep the wheel inflated at 3..6 psi after thousands of miles of biking on rough terrain.
A Forte S belt measures 112cm in length. Not 91mm or 91cm.
A Forte belt is about 140cm.
This forum desperately needs a good facepalm emoji.
Dear analog_sa
Facepalm emoji noted. Instead I could use it to slap myself, if that helps.
I really don´t know, which pot I pissed in, when measuring the belts. Dark room, new glasses needed or whatever.
All I can do is lie flat on the floor and apologize. I really don´t know, how I happened to read the measument so wrong.
You saw the receipt stating Forte-S belts.
I just tried again, and they measure (double) 59 cm....... so should be a total of approx 118cm in length.
Can I do anything to compensate you for my faulty/bad info, just PM me. Again..... sooooo sorry.
The best belt by far is a Myalar belt. easy to make up & trial, just buy some 5mm wide Mylar tape & make up the diameter you want. may take several tries, until you get the hang of it. My latest you has been driving my deck for over a year. Now it takes me about 5 minutes to make up.
You can also buy a made up Mylar belt from Galibier T/T's for $38.
Cheers
You can also buy a made up Mylar belt from Galibier T/T's for $38.
Cheers
Mylar only works if the table was made to use a thin Mylar tape type of belt. Anything designed to use a round cross section style of belt will need a speed control device to correct the speed.
BillWojo
BillWojo
looking for oversized flat belts in similar sizes (100cm until 140cm) - check out post #174 under
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/linn-sondek-diy-mods-that-work.272570/page-9
Thakker's biggest value is 94,2 cm
https://www.thakker.eu/riemen/auf-mass/thakker-flachriemen-300-0-x-3-0-x-1-2-umfang-942-mm/a-10555/
Thanks for an advice.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/linn-sondek-diy-mods-that-work.272570/page-9
Thakker's biggest value is 94,2 cm
https://www.thakker.eu/riemen/auf-mass/thakker-flachriemen-300-0-x-3-0-x-1-2-umfang-942-mm/a-10555/
Thanks for an advice.
Why don't you use a Mylar tape belt. If you have a fixed motor point on your T/T then it is more difficult to make up/ But you could upgrade you T/T by removing your motor from the plinth manufacture / buy of Motor Pod. Then the whole process becomes very simple & you can make a belt for as little as $1-00.
-Moving the motor from you plinth have several immediate benefits. The BIGEST being reducing motor born noise getting through to your arm.
This is what I did to my SP15 when the electronics crapped out. see photo below. The Motor (bought 'Open Box' of off F/Bay & DC voltage controllers cost about $25-00 to put together. Then I joined a local wood turning club to learn how to make the motor housing from scrap wood.
-Moving the motor from you plinth have several immediate benefits. The BIGEST being reducing motor born noise getting through to your arm.
This is what I did to my SP15 when the electronics crapped out. see photo below. The Motor (bought 'Open Box' of off F/Bay & DC voltage controllers cost about $25-00 to put together. Then I joined a local wood turning club to learn how to make the motor housing from scrap wood.
interesting idea, - however, the stretching factor (compliance) could be so small that the sub-chassis is warped too far to the left due to the excessive tensile forces. Therefore I want to use for experimenting as first step a rubber material similar to the genuine belt on the integrated motor of Linn's LP12
Not sure if this is relevant any more as it's a bit late 🙁 Have you tried making your own? This material butt welds quite well, and is cheap enough to experiment with. I'm sure that there are many suppliers.
We used to use the green, that had a rough'ish high friction surface. After a bit of "trial and error" with welding and smoothing off after, they seemed to work well. (We used 5mm on small motor drives).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125039163613?var=426109309722
"Ø1.5-18mm PU Drive Conveyor Belt Round Polyurethane Belt for Transmission Green"
PS.
I would check up on minimum pulley size, I would think 8 to 10 times belt diameter a good starting point.
As a guide.....
https://docs.rs-online.com/cd5e/0900766b8151bebd.pdf
We used to use the green, that had a rough'ish high friction surface. After a bit of "trial and error" with welding and smoothing off after, they seemed to work well. (We used 5mm on small motor drives).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125039163613?var=426109309722
"Ø1.5-18mm PU Drive Conveyor Belt Round Polyurethane Belt for Transmission Green"
PS.
I would check up on minimum pulley size, I would think 8 to 10 times belt diameter a good starting point.
As a guide.....
https://docs.rs-online.com/cd5e/0900766b8151bebd.pdf
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