well I blew some credit card money on the Main caps just for something to do, they showed up this-morning and I mounted them on a piece of plastic elevated away from everything else, 50V 8000uf Mallory's, I lost my protection circuit though, no clicky anymore, :-/. I'd try my heat up method but the g/f is asleep now >.<.
anyone have thoughts on "easy things that blow" on a fresh main cap install? (I did the bulb trick to get them charged up, and they're working fine, I have power up to them at least. (tested with the same lamp, but with it taken out of the line lights up dim. as would be expected at the voltage.) so ideas?
anyone have thoughts on "easy things that blow" on a fresh main cap install? (I did the bulb trick to get them charged up, and they're working fine, I have power up to them at least. (tested with the same lamp, but with it taken out of the line lights up dim. as would be expected at the voltage.) so ideas?
place for electronic parts... eeee Global Electronics in Toronto, bought some transistors from them - original 1943/5200 Tosh. few other ones
I've got a nice old Beckman DMM sitting here that I don't really need. It's too good to just throw out, but I have enough others. You can have it for the cost of postage if you want.
Steve.
Sakis and mysteriphys, cut out the personal stuff. You are each forbidden to post in theis thread for the next 48 hours. Now I'm going to have to clean up the mess, and that gets me grumpy.NEWS!!!! **** amp STILL powers on when heated, but now because I've been soldering and unsoldering things in the signal path, something is dead, and my protection switch isn't clicking.
AWESOME!
so aside from waiting for post to bring me a DMM from the awesome SpinD, so that I can track down the newly created issue, can anyone think of a specific place to start looking that doesn't involve the signal path?
(by powering on, I mean the display in the front comes to life showing my spectrum DB and mode of listening selector)
as a side note, I'm not sure if this was clear before, but when the relay clicked before and the display didn't turn on there was no audio, but when I heated things up, the display would come on, and I would have audio.
I'm going to study the schem again, I think I am starting to understand more.
AWESOME!
so aside from waiting for post to bring me a DMM from the awesome SpinD, so that I can track down the newly created issue, can anyone think of a specific place to start looking that doesn't involve the signal path?
(by powering on, I mean the display in the front comes to life showing my spectrum DB and mode of listening selector)
as a side note, I'm not sure if this was clear before, but when the relay clicked before and the display didn't turn on there was no audio, but when I heated things up, the display would come on, and I would have audio.
I'm going to study the schem again, I think I am starting to understand more.
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Just looking over digi-key's supposedly "available" options as replacements for my 2sc1384 and I've come up with
2SC3940(A)
2SD1994A
Everything matches to a T, even the pin layout of ECB (aside from packaging type on the second one)...
the gain on these 2 are 170 @ 50mA, 500mA I can't find gain info on the original (or don't know what to calculate to get it) are these good, or better replacements? (they are planned discontinued on the panasonic website, but digi-key apparently has them ) should I grab one while the grabbing is possibly good?
2SC3940(A)
2SD1994A
Everything matches to a T, even the pin layout of ECB (aside from packaging type on the second one)...
the gain on these 2 are 170 @ 50mA, 500mA I can't find gain info on the original (or don't know what to calculate to get it) are these good, or better replacements? (they are planned discontinued on the panasonic website, but digi-key apparently has them ) should I grab one while the grabbing is possibly good?
well... here's the good news, since I heated the amp up earlier today, it's been powering on the indicator circuit without fail, so after getting it back to operating temp the first time, that problem has *so far* seemed to have corrected itself. and I'm left with the issue of my 2sc1384 quite likely being blown.
the bad news is, I've been posting to myself all night 😛 haha. anyway. just thought I'd update if anyone cares!
the bad news is, I've been posting to myself all night 😛 haha. anyway. just thought I'd update if anyone cares!
9 hours later, indicator circuit is still powering on without fail, unit has been unplugged all night. the only thing that has been out of the unit was the Q21, so I'll be ordering A replacement asap.
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