I have a pair of Altec Valencia speakers and would like to put them on stands so that when seated, the horns are at ear level. They have a footprint of 26" wide and 20" deep and 30" tall, they each sit on a 2" high plinth that is simply a wood frame made of 3/4" particle board.
I need to raise them about 12". What would be the best type of stand that would not diminish the bass response? Pedestal? Wood frame like the current plinth, only taller? If a frame, should I fill with insulation or maybe some concrete? Looking for some guidance.
I need to raise them about 12". What would be the best type of stand that would not diminish the bass response? Pedestal? Wood frame like the current plinth, only taller? If a frame, should I fill with insulation or maybe some concrete? Looking for some guidance.
A suitably braced/damped continuation of the box with massive pedestal to minimize some loss of bass due to being higher up, changing its pi space loading a bit a bit, ceiling/floor bounce response.
Note the factory XO 'tilts up' the horn's response, so once elevated it will focus somewhat above your head, so may need to adjust the horn's level setting and/or boost extreme highs.
Note the factory XO 'tilts up' the horn's response, so once elevated it will focus somewhat above your head, so may need to adjust the horn's level setting and/or boost extreme highs.
TPU is the material that rubber duckys are made from and available as a 3D print filament. It has very superior wear and strength properties. Implementation would be to model a plinth box outer and build in features like rests for the steel mesh and such and then pour concrete. Cap with a TPU lid
An online place can print the TPU for you and it can be modelled in FreeCAD. Would you need help going this route?
An online place can print the TPU for you and it can be modelled in FreeCAD. Would you need help going this route?
I'm a carpenter and woodworker. I was thinking of building them in my shop. I can work with wood and concrete.
Then you will only need to address something to stop the dance between the concrete and speaker bottom and the floor. I have used a latex type repositionable tile glue from the hardware shop for this purpose before
raising off the floor can reduce bass coupling - try it and see if acceptable. Here's something I bumped into which is very attractive - might be ~2x6" (?) - stained 2x4 could look good with certain size speakers
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...-e73d-4e8e-9cb1-d95ad0d6ddaf.jpg?v=1595062471
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...-e73d-4e8e-9cb1-d95ad0d6ddaf.jpg?v=1595062471
I had those - brings back such memories! I "relieved" - chopped - off the crowning cabinet wall above and to the left / right of the horn, to make them look more like Peavey SP3s. Dont ask how it sounded, as a result; this happened circa 1985 or so.
I noted those areas were stuffed with fiberglass when I got them, so I figured no wall is better than a wall with a fiberglass pad on it. These days, due to unmolested value of anything original Altec, I wouldnt consider that particular operation.
At one point I had EV T35 tweets on a stick back above the magnets of the horns. Cant remember how I crossed them. I also tried coating the horn metal above, on the sides and below with this...? brush-able coating, intending to damp any metal resonances. I layered it on thick, as I recall.
Never did build stands for them. I did for other lesser cabinets, using a clay flue pipe, paver stone, sand and cement. Those made quite a difference, with the speaker bottom riding on 3 ball bearings, held in metal cups within the cement. Here's the warning for such a construction; I built them in place, then - even with a seriously built hand truck - it was all I could do to get them out of the house. They're probably sinking into the earth in the woods behind that house, where I broke them down and laid them to rest.
I noted those areas were stuffed with fiberglass when I got them, so I figured no wall is better than a wall with a fiberglass pad on it. These days, due to unmolested value of anything original Altec, I wouldnt consider that particular operation.
At one point I had EV T35 tweets on a stick back above the magnets of the horns. Cant remember how I crossed them. I also tried coating the horn metal above, on the sides and below with this...? brush-able coating, intending to damp any metal resonances. I layered it on thick, as I recall.
Never did build stands for them. I did for other lesser cabinets, using a clay flue pipe, paver stone, sand and cement. Those made quite a difference, with the speaker bottom riding on 3 ball bearings, held in metal cups within the cement. Here's the warning for such a construction; I built them in place, then - even with a seriously built hand truck - it was all I could do to get them out of the house. They're probably sinking into the earth in the woods behind that house, where I broke them down and laid them to rest.
Pair of subwoofers built to match ? You should be able to fit 4x12" under them.
Would be a shame to waste the space.
Rob.
Would be a shame to waste the space.
Rob.
Yeah, my suggestion is basically hollow and use removable bags of sand/oil dry/whatever to fill/mass load them.
I would build something that matches the era of the speakers. I do not think that the stand construction wil significantly affect the bass, as long as there are no large panels. You have wooden floors, so it might be beneficial a bit to decouple the speakers, to avoid transmitting vibrations to the floor. That means compliant material or even springs.
Would the Pi factor be changed much if there was a sloped transition of about 45 degrees built into the base?
Or perhaps a better shaped and shallower curve?
Or perhaps a better shaped and shallower curve?
Well, you want it very close or if heavy enough, even setting on, a truly rigid/massive floor such as a concrete pad, but if a wooden/whatever 'floating'/suspended/beam floor construction over a block/whatever foundation, then you want to isolate it on spikes or some-such system designed for isolation.