I'm starting to think about mounting a flat screen on the wall, and along with that in-wall speakers.
Then my sub is kinda in the way. Now, a 16" stud wall has over 3 cubic feet per stud, so if I rebuilt the wall to be sturdy I could just mount drivers in the wall. But it's hard to find shallow drivers to work well with that, and I'd end with a LOT of grilles in the wall.
So I started thinking of mounting subs up in the ceiling with some kind of HVAC looking grilles. Probably have to be back-boxed, to not propagate sound all over the house through the open crawl-space attic.
Also kinda thinking that if I had two next to each other right up next to the TV wall (and in the middle of that wall), they would load each other into like 1/8 space (???). A big issue I have is the room is open to a hallway and an adjacent den -> there's no corner for a sub(s).
Whaddaya think?
Then my sub is kinda in the way. Now, a 16" stud wall has over 3 cubic feet per stud, so if I rebuilt the wall to be sturdy I could just mount drivers in the wall. But it's hard to find shallow drivers to work well with that, and I'd end with a LOT of grilles in the wall.
So I started thinking of mounting subs up in the ceiling with some kind of HVAC looking grilles. Probably have to be back-boxed, to not propagate sound all over the house through the open crawl-space attic.
Also kinda thinking that if I had two next to each other right up next to the TV wall (and in the middle of that wall), they would load each other into like 1/8 space (???). A big issue I have is the room is open to a hallway and an adjacent den -> there's no corner for a sub(s).
Whaddaya think?
It got underway late Dec 2011.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/203345-isobaric-less-then-20-a-3.html
See post #21 and scroll a bit.
Make sure to see # 105 and #198.
The cost for the build is silly low!
*Impressions:
Fast response, the upper register is nice. The speaker does not look efficient on paper (specs), but I've been using less power than ever.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/203345-isobaric-less-then-20-a-3.html
See post #21 and scroll a bit.
Make sure to see # 105 and #198.
The cost for the build is silly low!
*Impressions:
Fast response, the upper register is nice. The speaker does not look efficient on paper (specs), but I've been using less power than ever.
floor joists and 3/4" subfloor always seems a better fit than drywall ceiling for invisible subs...
Especially where vibrations cause things to loosen, shake, rattle, and "fall".....
Especially where vibrations cause things to loosen, shake, rattle, and "fall".....
I wouldn't want to cut up a floor 😱 when G.W.B. was an option.
With a pair of 2x4 cross braces at the bottom and additional stabilizing braces at the top, I don't see how anything would fall.
On another note, you'll want to keep the sub amp close to the speaker(s), i.e. keep the power feed cables short as possible.
With a pair of 2x4 cross braces at the bottom and additional stabilizing braces at the top, I don't see how anything would fall.
On another note, you'll want to keep the sub amp close to the speaker(s), i.e. keep the power feed cables short as possible.
I guess the real question is: can you "shoot" bass into a room? Or will half of it be left behind in the adjacent room, basement, or attic?
I tried subs that went thru the wall once at a friend's, it didn't work well (but I had too much foam in the boxes).
I tried subs that went thru the wall once at a friend's, it didn't work well (but I had too much foam in the boxes).
There's lot of ceiling mounted IB subs made.
IB subwoofer picture gallery page 1
IB subwoofer FAQ page
Most use manifold installation to cancel elements forces and to prevent ceiling or wall to vibrate. If you have insulation at attic, noise to other rooms or to neighbours shouldn't be that big problem.🙂
IB subwoofer picture gallery page 1
IB subwoofer FAQ page
Most use manifold installation to cancel elements forces and to prevent ceiling or wall to vibrate. If you have insulation at attic, noise to other rooms or to neighbours shouldn't be that big problem.🙂
I have used sub in the ceiling in everything from Discos (Back in the day) to churches. A solid box is required for any decent sub. A plaster ceiling is often a fine surround. I would not use drop in ceiling tiles. If it is a drop in ceiling system then drywall may be used for the nearby panels. For WAF put the drywall on top of the existing tile. If you understand the acoustic absorption then you can see why that gives even more LF.
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