What is the simplest way to tame rising tweeter response? I have seen that adding a series resistor to a tweeter can raise the response as frequency increases but what about if you have a response that rises with frequency? I am sure that a zobel would help but how about a simple resistor in parallel (assuming lowered Z and increased power draw are acceptable) would that in itself provide some reduction of the slope?
Frequency response and impedance measurements would need to be known before a passive network can be calculated to flatten a rising tweeter response. I use a parallel connected inductor and resistor , connected in series to a ESS HEIL AMT to correct for its rising response.
Series resistor before the network and parallel resistor after do not tilt response. Resistor after the xover will tilt down mildly. The other options are a tweaked zobel/CR across the tweeter, or a small coil in series(or parallel LR as mentioned above), or changing the xover filter Q to not tilt the response if it is currently.
like on the dayton mk602x ?
it would be nice to bring the hf down a squeek.
Then again, with my eq, i would probably think it sounds fine, lol.
it would be nice to bring the hf down a squeek.
Then again, with my eq, i would probably think it sounds fine, lol.
Since I'm an "old school" service technician, sometimes I find simpler ways to do things.
For a tweeter with a bit "harsh" of a response, I'd tick off a few on here with my non-electronic design.
Ya get a small 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch adhesive-backed round felt or foam pad used for under things so as not to scratch tables, and stick the damn thing on the middle of the offending tweeter.
Voila, a nice much smoother treble result.
For a tweeter with a bit "harsh" of a response, I'd tick off a few on here with my non-electronic design.
Ya get a small 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch adhesive-backed round felt or foam pad used for under things so as not to scratch tables, and stick the damn thing on the middle of the offending tweeter.
Voila, a nice much smoother treble result.
On-axis rising response would typically be for speakers that have a different intended listening axis. For new designs, I prefer to see if woofer on top produces a good result, and it often does, with the bonus of usually perfect time alignment. Sometimes tuning the tweeter filter to allow a bump at the low end of the stop band helps, though it becomes a bit tricky wrt tweeter excursion at the low end, specially if crossing low. When working with existing speakers, it's helpful to experiment with different listening axes. The series LR notch and zobel are last-gasp measures when nothing else really works.
One could try crossing at a point where the driver response can be integrated into the desired target response. For this tweeter it looks like a 4-5kHz crossover point would be a decent halfway, if you can stretch that far. Or a wideband notch if you need to cross at the usual 3KHz or so.
It is all too common to find the JBL 2402 Bullet tweeter needing attenuation when used in a domestic speaker system . It is efficient and directional and if it is not correctly matched in sensitivity to a midrange plus bass speaker combination it can be an uncomfortable listening experience. A 4-5 kHz crossover freq. is a very good suggestion for this horn tweeter.
Take it case by case, even boosting the low end can do it and is the first one to look at since you have those components in place.
The 2402 H was commonly used in JBL systems in conjunction with compression drivers such as the 2441 in combination with a short horn such as the 2311, for example. Since there is a strong resonance at around 2.2kHz approx. (Fs) for the bullet tweeter, the higher that the xover freq. is set, the less likely that the resonance will intrude. By memory 7.5kHz was my preferred number. I have no idea at all about the speaker system that mashaffer is intending to put together or to what purpose he intends to use it for. Perhaps he could supply more information.
Thanks for the responses. The tweets I actually have are the classic 075s. This plot is the closest match I could find. I had thought about a three way using something like these high efficiency midranges...
https://www.parts-express.com/speak...ofers-midrange-speakers/nominaldiameter/6-x-9
...and 15" woofers but I am beginning to think in terms of a two way with a pair of 10" high efficiency mid woofers (Like Eminence Betas or similar) and use a sub. Since the intent is to drive them with a SET there is not a need to drive them at high power. Likely the highest the woofers can be pushed is around 3.5K. The graphs for the new China Dayton pro 10s look like they can go higher but I am skeptical.
So in any case the tweets will need to be brought down by at least 6dB to match the woofs. If I can get the tweets fairly flat from 3.5k to 15k that will be good enough. While I save up money for the woofs and the wood I thought it would be good to see what I can get out of the bullets.
The goal is to get as close to 100dB/W system as possible.
https://www.parts-express.com/speak...ofers-midrange-speakers/nominaldiameter/6-x-9
...and 15" woofers but I am beginning to think in terms of a two way with a pair of 10" high efficiency mid woofers (Like Eminence Betas or similar) and use a sub. Since the intent is to drive them with a SET there is not a need to drive them at high power. Likely the highest the woofers can be pushed is around 3.5K. The graphs for the new China Dayton pro 10s look like they can go higher but I am skeptical.
So in any case the tweets will need to be brought down by at least 6dB to match the woofs. If I can get the tweets fairly flat from 3.5k to 15k that will be good enough. While I save up money for the woofs and the wood I thought it would be good to see what I can get out of the bullets.
The goal is to get as close to 100dB/W system as possible.
That's about as perfect a tweeter frequency plot 3kHz to 20kHz+, as anybody could ask for.
What is this thread all about? Once again, lots of clever "solutions" without first establishing what is the problem that needs fixing.
Could OP please explain what he/she finds about treble that needs addressing. Or should that be "Can...?"?
B.
What is this thread all about? Once again, lots of clever "solutions" without first establishing what is the problem that needs fixing.
Could OP please explain what he/she finds about treble that needs addressing. Or should that be "Can...?"?
B.
[Could OP please explain what he/she finds about treble that needs addressing. Or should that be "Can...?"?]
Between 3.5K and 7K there is a 6dB rise. Since we need to pad the tweeter down a bit anyway it would be nice to flatten that out a bit.
mike
Between 3.5K and 7K there is a 6dB rise. Since we need to pad the tweeter down a bit anyway it would be nice to flatten that out a bit.
mike
Just out of interest..
You can't deny a house curve. I don't subscribe to the idea that a tweeter looks flat and that's how it's supposed to be.
Keep an eye on impedance, increasing the response that way reduces it, so the Lpad could be to advantage.
Will do. Woofs will probably end up being two 8 ohm units in parallel so would be using 4 ohm output trannies.