Hello!
A friend of mine wants me to build a full range speaker with the TB W8 1808 neo drivers. I am quite experienced in multi-way systems, but not so much with full ranges.
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w8-1808-8-neodymium-full-range-driver--264-894
Is there anyone who has tried this driver, and if yes, wit what results? On paper it looks excellent, but how it sounds in reality? What would be the best type of enclosure to use with? Reflex, or perhaps TL? Based on the T-S data both are realizable I think.
Thanks for any opinions and suggestions!
A friend of mine wants me to build a full range speaker with the TB W8 1808 neo drivers. I am quite experienced in multi-way systems, but not so much with full ranges.
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w8-1808-8-neodymium-full-range-driver--264-894
Is there anyone who has tried this driver, and if yes, wit what results? On paper it looks excellent, but how it sounds in reality? What would be the best type of enclosure to use with? Reflex, or perhaps TL? Based on the T-S data both are realizable I think.
Thanks for any opinions and suggestions!
You can get infos at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/162407-tang-band-w8-1808-cabinet.html
Thanks a lot for the suggestion, good ideas there... I think I will try what I thought first, and recommended by TB:
Vented box
Box parameters
Vb= 65 liters
V(total)= 66.39 liters
Fb=41.41hz
QL=6.723
F3=47.16 hz
fill= minimal
Vents= 1 round with flush end
Dv=71 mm
Lv=40 mm
Now I can get those for about 240 USD/pair from a guy in my country (newer used from an abandoned project) and it looks like for that money they are really a steal...
Vented box
Box parameters
Vb= 65 liters
V(total)= 66.39 liters
Fb=41.41hz
QL=6.723
F3=47.16 hz
fill= minimal
Vents= 1 round with flush end
Dv=71 mm
Lv=40 mm
Now I can get those for about 240 USD/pair from a guy in my country (newer used from an abandoned project) and it looks like for that money they are really a steal...
Hi,
Note that with the drivers overall uptilt of about 10dB
combined with a further 6dB of baffle step uptilt, you
are looking at a seriously unbalanced loudspeaker.
Some correction will be required, either at line level
or an inline R||L speaker filter. I'd say you are going
to need at least 10dB, and that is probably best done
by cascading two RL filters to keep the slopes low.
(Same with line level, cascade two RC filters.)
rgds, sreten.
Note that with the drivers overall uptilt of about 10dB
combined with a further 6dB of baffle step uptilt, you
are looking at a seriously unbalanced loudspeaker.
Some correction will be required, either at line level
or an inline R||L speaker filter. I'd say you are going
to need at least 10dB, and that is probably best done
by cascading two RL filters to keep the slopes low.
(Same with line level, cascade two RC filters.)
rgds, sreten.
Last edited:
Thanks for the suggestion Sreten, I am familiar with BS correction, and actually already thought of using some kind of slope-shaping circuitry (probably in the box itself, not line level) especially because my friend wants a relatively narrow box (max 12").
I guess it will not hurt sensitivity too much if the published data (93 dB) is correct. His recent boxes are 88 dB/W medium size two-ways and the volume he gets from them is enough for him.
I guess it will not hurt sensitivity too much if the published data (93 dB) is correct. His recent boxes are 88 dB/W medium size two-ways and the volume he gets from them is enough for him.
Every cabinet shape has resonances. To control these resonances, a well designed ported bass reflex box will use a combination of: prime ratios for W*D*H; bracing materials; and stuffing.
MLTL = Mass Loaded Transmission Line = build a pipe with one main bass resonant frequency and tune a bottom port to that resonant frequency. A MLTL cabinet alignment is tall and narrow in order to extend the bass with the energy from a quarter-wave resonant tuned transmission line that exits into a bottom port. This is a "use the resonant force" design. Read up at: Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design
The Tang Band W8-1808 performs very nicely in a MLTL alignment, and it is worth your time to study the size options.
======medium 3.3cuft volume MLTL design: F3 ~45Hz
MLTL -- internal 48"H x10"W x12"D mount driver center 12" down from the top and use a 4"dia x2" long port 5" up from bottom. 0.5 lb/cuft stuffing down to port, then 1lb/cuft below port. When positioned away from the wall baffle step compensation of 2.5 mh coil in parallel with an 6 ohm resistor can help.
====="bedroom tall" 4.3 cuft volume MLTL design: F3 ~41Hz
MLTL -- internal 52"H x14.4"W x10"D mount driver center 14" down from the top and use a 4"dia x3" long port 5.5" up from bottom. Wide with modest depth for against-the-wall placement. Using double thick walls plus internal corner braces allows a 1.5"-2" round-over on all front baffle edges to reduce diffraction effects. 0.5 lb/cuft stuffing used
===== large 5.1 cuft volume MLTL design: F3 ~37Hz
The T/S parameters for the W8-1808 suggest it's optimal in a 287sqin internal cross section line. =>BIG
120-150sqin internal cross sections are much more home acceptable.. maybe 200 sqin max.
5.1 cuf internal volume with port tuned to 37Hz looks very good for seated family HT use.
44" high, 12"W, 16.7"D (200sqin cross section) (12W allows 1.5"-3" edge diffraction radius)
Speaker center 12" down
Port 4" diameter, 2" long, center 5" up
MLTL = Mass Loaded Transmission Line = build a pipe with one main bass resonant frequency and tune a bottom port to that resonant frequency. A MLTL cabinet alignment is tall and narrow in order to extend the bass with the energy from a quarter-wave resonant tuned transmission line that exits into a bottom port. This is a "use the resonant force" design. Read up at: Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design
The Tang Band W8-1808 performs very nicely in a MLTL alignment, and it is worth your time to study the size options.
======medium 3.3cuft volume MLTL design: F3 ~45Hz
MLTL -- internal 48"H x10"W x12"D mount driver center 12" down from the top and use a 4"dia x2" long port 5" up from bottom. 0.5 lb/cuft stuffing down to port, then 1lb/cuft below port. When positioned away from the wall baffle step compensation of 2.5 mh coil in parallel with an 6 ohm resistor can help.
====="bedroom tall" 4.3 cuft volume MLTL design: F3 ~41Hz
MLTL -- internal 52"H x14.4"W x10"D mount driver center 14" down from the top and use a 4"dia x3" long port 5.5" up from bottom. Wide with modest depth for against-the-wall placement. Using double thick walls plus internal corner braces allows a 1.5"-2" round-over on all front baffle edges to reduce diffraction effects. 0.5 lb/cuft stuffing used
===== large 5.1 cuft volume MLTL design: F3 ~37Hz
The T/S parameters for the W8-1808 suggest it's optimal in a 287sqin internal cross section line. =>BIG
120-150sqin internal cross sections are much more home acceptable.. maybe 200 sqin max.
5.1 cuf internal volume with port tuned to 37Hz looks very good for seated family HT use.
44" high, 12"W, 16.7"D (200sqin cross section) (12W allows 1.5"-3" edge diffraction radius)
Speaker center 12" down
Port 4" diameter, 2" long, center 5" up
Attachments
![48in%20MLTL[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/486/486082-3bfec1d1660ec8ed15bf64707ec9e540.jpg?hash=O_7B0WYOyO)
The W8-1808 (and sibling W8-1772) have their following.
My opinion is that they are good but overpriced.
This a Monster miniOnken we have done for them.
dave
My opinion is that they are good but overpriced.
This a Monster miniOnken we have done for them.
dave
I have the 1772 which I got at a bargain, and it needs some love to make it perform well, especially in my all concrete room.
I'm using JRiver and it helps a lot, especially when combined with DRC convolution.
I'm using JRiver and it helps a lot, especially when combined with DRC convolution.
Nice!
I would love to do a horn with my 1772.
But, the setup, as it is, they have to lay on a shelf that is 20" high... which leaves only 14" for the drivers to be at ear level.
Mids and highs are too strong in my 40l BR. They need to be tamed with EQ (I didn't make a BSC yet, as I am using JRiver for EQ and DRC).
I would love to do a horn with my 1772.
But, the setup, as it is, they have to lay on a shelf that is 20" high... which leaves only 14" for the drivers to be at ear level.
Mids and highs are too strong in my 40l BR. They need to be tamed with EQ (I didn't make a BSC yet, as I am using JRiver for EQ and DRC).
Design
Hi Dave,
Sent you mail for subscription details. Can you please check and give details? Thanks
-Manoj
Hi Dave,
Sent you mail for subscription details. Can you please check and give details? Thanks
-Manoj