Choosing another driver doesn't mean to randomly pick anything. In allmost any case a change of the tuning is needed. Nothing that is impossible to do with a few data and a simulation prog. I have seen more than 120$ asked for the original driver, which makes the construction very questionable.
Picking different drivers means likely design changes.
Below are T&S parameters you should look for if you want a substitute. Additionally I've included a few screenshots around the box tuning. This is a bit of an unusual design and this is a DIY forum so DIY as you wish! I haven't found anything that does loud, sound quality, and long battery life as well as the boominator.
I'll try to find the Boominator digest I created some time ago and upload it for reference. I created it because this thread is HUGE and it's hard to find useful information.
Drivers that were used in the past for each Boominator 'version'
Hey mind DM'ing me? Just created the account so I can't start a DM. I am interested in knowing prices. I am not sure if I want to build the full Boominator or the MINI but it will probably depend on driver costs.drop me a line
I was looking at candidates for different woofers and came across the Faitalpro 10FE300 4ohm. All T/s parameters are close except for Le and Re.
Why does Le have to be this high? Is it for to play the freq all the way up for where the piezo takes over? If i were to build one i'd probably go 1" compression drivers and dsp anyways. Here's a link for those who are interested 🙂
https://faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=401040107
Why does Le have to be this high? Is it for to play the freq all the way up for where the piezo takes over? If i were to build one i'd probably go 1" compression drivers and dsp anyways. Here's a link for those who are interested 🙂
https://faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=401040107