Yeh, I don't even turn the soldering iron on here in Summer when we get over 32 deg C or so. My set up is in the garage and is not air conditioned, but it is just right in Spring and Autumn and some of Winter. If I start bringing stuff inside, my Wife gives me the evil look.
According to the two datasheets for the 2 transformers and my math - you are spot on Mike with that pin spacing to accommodate both the Jensen and Cinemag transformers for the next revision - I also like the elongated hole solution as well. Great work.
I also support the mod Vunce has suggested in post #258 when using the larger diameter electro for C1.
Keep up the good work.
Good looking assembly, Vunce, and good observations.
The Muse capacitors are the largest diameter part that are likely to occupy the C1 and C2 locations. I elevated the larger power resistors an extra mm or two above the PCB to allow more air circulation. That would also help prevent R3 from getting too warm. My choice for R3 was one of the larger diameter parts available for that position. It should run reasonably cool.
I will build a pair of the new PCBs and will be paying attention to component clearances. We should have a little more wiggle room without the zeners. Plus I really want to hear how the CineMags sound in the F6.
The Muse capacitors are the largest diameter part that are likely to occupy the C1 and C2 locations. I elevated the larger power resistors an extra mm or two above the PCB to allow more air circulation. That would also help prevent R3 from getting too warm. My choice for R3 was one of the larger diameter parts available for that position. It should run reasonably cool.
I will build a pair of the new PCBs and will be paying attention to component clearances. We should have a little more wiggle room without the zeners. Plus I really want to hear how the CineMags sound in the F6.
@Mikerodrig27
Referencing to post #265, you might consider changing the silkscreen for U3 to something like Q10. You should also change it in the F6 Diamond schematic.
It just looks odd since the TTA004B bjt transistor isn’t a regulator.
Best,
Anand.
Referencing to post #265, you might consider changing the silkscreen for U3 to something like Q10. You should also change it in the F6 Diamond schematic.
It just looks odd since the TTA004B bjt transistor isn’t a regulator.
Best,
Anand.
I have looked at that solution many times over the years and the sticking point is that they all involve specialized tools for crimping the connection pin/socket, and oftentimes installing and
r removing the pin/socket. The cost of the tools are not affordable for nearly all hobbyists. I gather there is little or no support for terminal blocks or other on-board connectors. I think we can let my suggestion die.
I have looked into pcb terminal blocks that will fit the board for the loudspeaker and power supply connections. Both of these below will fit the pcb.
2 way terminal block 10mm pin spacing - Mouser part number 571-282858-2 will fit for the loudspeaker connection - rated at 24A for wire 0.5 sq mm to 4 sq mm.
3 way terminal block 7.5mm pin spacing - Mouser part number 651-1988118 will fit for the power connections- rated at 32A for wire 0.5 sq mm to 4 sq mm.
2 way terminal block 10mm pin spacing - Mouser part number 571-282858-2 will fit for the loudspeaker connection - rated at 24A for wire 0.5 sq mm to 4 sq mm.
3 way terminal block 7.5mm pin spacing - Mouser part number 651-1988118 will fit for the power connections- rated at 32A for wire 0.5 sq mm to 4 sq mm.
Nice sleuth work Gary.
An M3 fastener almost fits through those holes, very close. I was investigating if using brass standoffs screwed through the bottom and soldered to the board would work. It's a mounting scheme that EUVL uses for his boards, it works great for my M2OPS amplifier.
Edit: The standoffs in the pics are M4 size.
An M3 fastener almost fits through those holes, very close. I was investigating if using brass standoffs screwed through the bottom and soldered to the board would work. It's a mounting scheme that EUVL uses for his boards, it works great for my M2OPS amplifier.
Edit: The standoffs in the pics are M4 size.
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