Sadly, no - 3-jaw, only have a collet chuck for the milling head.
I've got this small machine, and after considering the diameter, it should do the trick. Also just remembered I have another jaw set for the 3-jaw chuck that might go down this small.
Are you using carbide tools? Are you using a parting tool after turning down the inserted section, or just sawing off?
Haven't popped the thrust pad out yet to get dimensions.
I've got this small machine, and after considering the diameter, it should do the trick. Also just remembered I have another jaw set for the 3-jaw chuck that might go down this small.
Are you using carbide tools? Are you using a parting tool after turning down the inserted section, or just sawing off?
Haven't popped the thrust pad out yet to get dimensions.
Firstly I didn't say replacing the caps was unnecessary I have been repairing and testing electronics for a living for over 40years including doing my apprenticeship with Marantz. So any advice I give is based on decades of experience. I have seen more than a few times on forums where someone has blanket replaced caps and the unit no longer works afterwards.
You can machine the thrust pads with a larger lathe. I use a collet chuck. I also made an aluminium fixture to hold the pad to make machining it easier. The fixture can also be held in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, it's kind of like a 5C emergency collet but straight not tapered.
You can machine the thrust pads with a larger lathe. I use a collet chuck. I also made an aluminium fixture to hold the pad to make machining it easier. The fixture can also be held in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, it's kind of like a 5C emergency collet but straight not tapered.
Well, perhaps not, but...
So I explained my reasoning and my test equipment and procedures. Those bad caps would have gone undiscovered if I had not removed all of them. I also provided some data on the condition of the original caps. I also thanked you for your input, and do agree that many times, folks on forums with little experience do more harm than good when "re-capping".
Hopefully, my subsequent posts and photos indicate some ability to you, and though I am not a professional, I started soldering about 55 years ago, and have now built and repaired a lot of electronics/audio/guitar gear.
I don't have collet chucks in either lathe, but am intrigued by your aluminum fixture, so will give that some more thought and attention.
Thank you, Warrjon. I still do appreciate your comments and input.
This is the fixture I made to machine the pads. It's 10mm aluminium round bar. You could easily make it from larger OD stock to fit your chuck. The pad does not need to perfectly concentric so long as the pad doesn't touch the journal sleeve. The important part is the fit of the pad on the bottom of the journal. This needs to be a positive clip fit and the bottom of the pocket needs to engage on the bottom of the journal.
The ID is 6.8mm and 2.5mm deep. I use 8mm OD bar machined to 6.7mm then cut the pad at 3mm length. Place the pad in the fixture and clip one side which becomes the bottom flip it over and machine the pocket. The depth of the fixture is what I use to govern the depth of the pad so repeatability is better than 0.1mm. I use a 4mm slot drill to pocket the hole then a small PCD boring bar to finish. A digital depth gauge on the tailstock makes drilling the pocket easier.
The ID is 6.8mm and 2.5mm deep. I use 8mm OD bar machined to 6.7mm then cut the pad at 3mm length. Place the pad in the fixture and clip one side which becomes the bottom flip it over and machine the pocket. The depth of the fixture is what I use to govern the depth of the pad so repeatability is better than 0.1mm. I use a 4mm slot drill to pocket the hole then a small PCD boring bar to finish. A digital depth gauge on the tailstock makes drilling the pocket easier.
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Thank you, @warrjon! That fixture looks great. Your description is very helpful.
This reminds me that I need to get a digital gauge for my tailstock! And a PCD boring bar, which I haven't used before. And a slot drill (I have a bunch of end mills). Hmm. Might be cheaper to buy a pad if they can be found.
You've triggered my innate desire to make everything, but with so many projects stacking up and my available time, it's decision time.
This reminds me that I need to get a digital gauge for my tailstock! And a PCD boring bar, which I haven't used before. And a slot drill (I have a bunch of end mills). Hmm. Might be cheaper to buy a pad if they can be found.
You've triggered my innate desire to make everything, but with so many projects stacking up and my available time, it's decision time.
@GKTAUDIO You can use a 3/16 end mill just be careful as the 3 or 4 flute end mills can wander when plunging. A HSS boring bar will work, I have a few small boring bars made from broken drill bits. It does take time to get setup to make parts but once you have jigs it becomes easy to make more. When Woodsong stop making thrust pads I needed to make my own for servicing peoples SP10's.
Rather than polluting this thread with machining talk PM me if you want details of my tailstock depth gauge.
Rather than polluting this thread with machining talk PM me if you want details of my tailstock depth gauge.
I notice many of these SP10 tables are from Japan. IIRC, Japan has 100 volt house voltage.
Do the power supply for these convert to 120 without issue? Seems like an awful long distance to ship a turntable, but many are from there on eBay.
Is there a better place to get these from? I'm beginning the search.
Russellc
Do the power supply for these convert to 120 without issue? Seems like an awful long distance to ship a turntable, but many are from there on eBay.
Is there a better place to get these from? I'm beginning the search.
Russellc
Set a saved search in hifishark.com and they pop up all the time. Be careful shipping from Japan. I did it, but its a big investment with high risk – the unit might need a lot of work and/or get damaged if not packed properly. I got an MK2A from a kid on Audiomart and it was decent, and only $700. Then got an MK3 from Japan and it was pretty cherry. SDT's are needed for the Japanese ones but zero issues there. Had both units inspected and recapped/serviced by the SP10 authority JP (in this thread). Do it!