Three way crossover question

What a confusing thread! All is muddled! Here's what I have learned. Because I know B&W quite well.

I'm not convinced R1 at the tweeter input is 5.6R at all. It might be 0.56R! Written R56. It is seven watts for sure. 20W would be for a bass circuit. Measure it!

Tweeter is ferrofluid in the P6 and apparently has a tendency to dry out. Killing the top end. The fluid reacted with the surround glue and went solid sometimes. If that is the issue, I would clean it out altogether, but you could try replacing.

Usual internet advice to update the ageing NP capacitors. A last resort I would think, they usually work for me. But cheap entertainment.

Tweeter polarity seems to be much in doubt. It's usually positive in 6" speakers. It's actually quite hard to hear the difference in practise IMO.
Well, I looked up the P5 circuit which is all we have really. And did some simming. I doubt if it matters much the precise bass coil arrangements.

But the interesting thing is that adding a 4.7uF shunt capacitor and 1.8R resistor to the bassmid is a well known tweak on B&W 6" Kevlar speakers. Reduces cone breakup around 5kHz. People usually take the tweeter level down too. Because B&W can be a bit showroom bright.

http://rutcho.com/tweaks/01_bw_dm601s3/bw_dm601s3.html
My tweaks include replacing tweeter caps with Obbligato Premiun+ caps, adding a Jantzen 5.6uF Superior Z-cap to the mid range filter and replacing the two iron core inductors with air core inductors. And I will consider adding an R2 to the mid range filter. And R1 is 0.56ohms.
P6 CROSSOVER.jpg
 
Replacing electrolytic caps with poly ones is not an improvement. It is a step back because you aren’t counting the ESR of the electrolytic which is way higher than in a poly cap.
Also replacing a cored with an air core coils without knowing the DCR of the original coil is altering for the worse the sensitivity of the speaker. With a 5-8 mH coil the difference in DCR can be huge. As an example with a 5.6 mH coil:
air core 1.4 mm wire, DCR 0.87 Ohm, 1 kg, 50 Euro
cored 1.0 mm wire, DCR 0.45 Ohm, 400 g, 13 Euro

IMHO you are wasting time and money. The only sensible thing to do is replace the electrolytic caps which can be off spec with equivalent ones (i.e. electrolytic), and replace ferrofluid as suggested by Steve.

Ralf
 
Based on scientific test data, displayed and explained on several sites, comparing electrolytic caps with poly caps and Fe cored inductors to air core inductors I disagree with your arguments. The following are some of the findings

  • Electrolytic Capacitors suffer hysteresis effects which can negatively impact audio.
  • Electrolytic Capacitors suffer from high dissipation, which cannot be minimized without using multiple capacitors in parallel.
  • Saturation is not a digital phenomenon - It happens gradually and the magnetic core choke increases distortions at levels considerably below those at which the cores will "Saturate".
  • Magnetic core Inductors are inherently nonlinear, even before saturating.
 
Adding C3 will change how the system sums across the higher crossover, likely putting a dip in the frequency response. However it may still give a subjective better sound, even if technically less flat. That is because the break-up of the midrange cone drive at higher frequencies is quite likely unpleasant sounding, and why higher order (more expensive) crossovers tend to be used.

The idea it is OK to replace a poor electrolytic with a better one, but not with a film capacitor, is of course fallacious - a "better" electrolytic capacitor will simply be more like a film capacitor. Changing the electrolytic capacitors for film ones will reduce the ESR (effective series resistance) of the filter, and therefore result in slightly more HF output, a similar effect will occur from using lower ESR inductors for the bass filters. The system may need to be re-voiced by changing the value of R1 as a consequence to rebalance the highs and lows.
 
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What a confusing thread! All is muddled! Here's what I have learned. Because I know B&W quite well.

I'm not convinced R1 at the tweeter input is 5.6R at all. It might be 0.56R! Written R56. It is seven watts for sure. 20W would be for a bass circuit. Measure it!

Tweeter is ferrofluid in the P6 and apparently has a tendency to dry out. Killing the top end. The fluid reacted with the surround glue and went solid sometimes. If that is the issue, I would clean it out altogether, but you could try replacing.

Usual internet advice to update the ageing NP capacitors. A last resort I would think, they usually work for me. But cheap entertainment.

Tweeter polarity seems to be much in doubt. It's usually positive in 6" speakers. It's actually quite hard to hear the difference in practise IMO.
Well, I looked up the P5 circuit which is all we have really. And did some simming. I doubt if it matters much the precise bass coil arrangements.

But the interesting thing is that adding a 4.7uF shunt capacitor and 1.8R resistor to the bassmid is a well known tweak on B&W 6" Kevlar speakers. Reduces cone breakup around 5kHz. People usually take the tweeter level down too. Because B&W can be a bit showroom bright.

http://rutcho.com/tweaks/01_bw_dm601s3/bw_dm601s3.html
The B&W P5 low pass filter diagram has + from the amp first going to L1 to the mid range and L2 is connected to the + line between L1 and the line to the midrange. So is the woofer seeing the seeing the combined induction values of L1 and L2? In one of the other diagrams + from the amp goes directly to L2 and L1 is connected after L2. Is this woofer seeing just the inductor value of L2.
 
The Cobex must be heavier than Kevlar
They(bower and Wilkins) make their own speakers and in this model the difference between the two, apparently from the outside, it's the membrane material. You'd want the heavier cone to reproduce the low bass and not the contrary, right?
So it's also a combination of electrical (the crossover) and acoustic properties of the material-a heavier cone has more difficulty to vibrate fast(=high in frequency) - so the analysis should comprehend many things. ..as usual!
 
So does the woofer actually see the combined inductance of L1 and L2
Yes, the inductance is the series sum of the two coils for the lower woofer, which makes the crossover somewhere around 200Hz. Both woofers have a nominal low pass crossover slope of 6dB per octave, however the actual crossover frequency and slope is indeterminate without knowing the drivers' impedance and impulse response.
 
Now I don't know much about electronics but I thought if inductors are connected in series the total inductance of L1 0.9mH + L2 5mh = 5.9 mH. But I also believe the total can vary depending on the position of the two inductors. So the Fe core inductors on the PCB are shown in the sketch. Any idea, based on their positions, of what the sum of the mH value would be?
P6 coil layout.jpg
 
I thought if inductors are connected in series the total inductance of L1 0.9mH + L2 5mh = 5.9 mH. But I also believe the total can vary depending on the position of the two inductors...
Yes that is true, but not by very much, and the ceramic cores (especially with the discs on the ends of L2) reduce the mutual coupling by an order of magnitude as well. I would expect the effect on inductance values would be irrelevant compared to the normal manufacturing tolerance range of value of the individual inductors.
 
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