Sorry for the late reply.
I don’t think there’s any need to bi amp with 98dB sensitivity.
Low pass filter for woofer is pretty easy and you can use just one amp for the whole system
In fact the 18” woofer is the less sensitive driver in the build and you have to damp the tweeter and the mid to match to the woofer.
In Troels design, BMS18” has 95dB and the upper system has to be damped to that.
In my system the target is 98dB
Anyway, if bi amping with a dsp you have anything you may need and you can match sensitivity as well as make a low pass.
I don’t think there’s any need to bi amp with 98dB sensitivity.
Low pass filter for woofer is pretty easy and you can use just one amp for the whole system
In fact the 18” woofer is the less sensitive driver in the build and you have to damp the tweeter and the mid to match to the woofer.
In Troels design, BMS18” has 95dB and the upper system has to be damped to that.
In my system the target is 98dB
Anyway, if bi amping with a dsp you have anything you may need and you can match sensitivity as well as make a low pass.
English only please Hi, i'm also interested in The loudspeaker II as an evolution of my DTQW mk3 : i love them but the fact is that i play loud and the jantzen 8008 has no high-pass filter and one of the 8008 suffured from that (power handling says Troels).
So 3 questions about the Loudspeaker ii
- i think they can play louder than DTQWT, do you confirm
- the stands : to high for me, can i make them shorter
- in the same way, is it possible, preserving the volume, to increase the depth of the bass section and decrease from around 10cm the height of the the bass section and of course preserving the relative positions of the drivers ?
Thanks
So 3 questions about the Loudspeaker ii
- i think they can play louder than DTQWT, do you confirm
- the stands : to high for me, can i make them shorter
- in the same way, is it possible, preserving the volume, to increase the depth of the bass section and decrease from around 10cm the height of the the bass section and of course preserving the relative positions of the drivers ?
Thanks
The Loudspeaker can play more than loud,,,i use now Aksa Maya amp 200w, and it can
get the Loudspeaker playing totally wild loud
you can make the stands lower
if you decrease 10cm of the speaker,,then what about the 2 port ?
get the Loudspeaker playing totally wild loud
you can make the stands lower
if you decrease 10cm of the speaker,,then what about the 2 port ?
Good point, i was on V1 with port next to the horn. Should be possible to put the port just above the woofer without any change to the crossover, don't you think ?
Is there a minimum height for the stands or could it be 3cm for example ? I've got a strong constraint on height (my projection screen is just above), with little stands i could go to the loudspeaker v3 which is slightly smaller.
Is there a minimum height for the stands or could it be 3cm for example ? I've got a strong constraint on height (my projection screen is just above), with little stands i could go to the loudspeaker v3 which is slightly smaller.
DTQWTII sounds really loud without distorting audibly, I think it will do a little more than The Loudspeaker (there's a horn there), but it won't be very meaningful if you drop the tube amp idea to power 18 "speakers.
I used DTQWTII for a long time with PP 38 watts from a good tube amp, and the bass was very deep and clear, but when it comes to the punch of a drum kit, there you see the advantages of a good SS power.
Nowadays, using a 1000 Watt Class D amplifier (bridge mono or 2 x 450 watts stereo) is not expensive, and you save yourself the problem of the xover because you can buy a Bheringher with built-in DSP and impedance correction.
PS: Forget mono plate amps, go for stereo, there is directionality in the bass, although theory says otherwise.
good job!!
2 questions:
1- why 18fh510 instead of 18fh500? (the 4ohm has 28hz fs)
2 - how many liters and fb for the 18fh510?
2 questions:
1- why 18fh510 instead of 18fh500? (the 4ohm has 28hz fs)
2 - how many liters and fb for the 18fh510?
My experience about height:
You must respect the 10cm stands and the center of all the drivers related to the floor (you have to include those 10cm stands)
In my setup I didn’t get the perfect result until I installed those stands.
Believe me that those 10cm makes a difference.
I’m pretty sure that it can be detracted some width adding some centimetres to depth but height.... not really sure.
You must respect the 10cm stands and the center of all the drivers related to the floor (you have to include those 10cm stands)
In my setup I didn’t get the perfect result until I installed those stands.
Believe me that those 10cm makes a difference.
I’m pretty sure that it can be detracted some width adding some centimetres to depth but height.... not really sure.
1.- 18FH510 needs less litters that 18FH500. There is no difference between 29Hz fs and 28 HZ fs even more when the system is tuned to 34Hz
2.- my setup: 180l FB36 aprox F3 34 aprox.
Bass hits you on your stomach Regardless of F3/Fb numbers.
This is a true 18” and take into consideration that my system is 98dB sensitivity.
2.- my setup: 180l FB36 aprox F3 34 aprox.
Bass hits you on your stomach Regardless of F3/Fb numbers.
This is a true 18” and take into consideration that my system is 98dB sensitivity.
in simulation 180 liters with fb 34hz the f3 is 44hz ... high!
and I don't like the curve.
maybe your box is 280 liters?
and I don't like the curve.
maybe your box is 280 liters?
Yes i know ! I pushed the level too far, waiting for distorsion that never came... and one of the 8008 didn't liked it. In fact i was thinking first at OBL15. I'm listening every type of music, but from time to time i like to push the level on electronic music with heavy bass. I was thinking the loudpspeaker will be better at that than DTQWT, or choose OBL15 as Troel says they can play very loud. The listening room is a big volume - 6mx5mx4m - so i need level. After what you said, not sure anymore of the choice of the Loudspeaker.
my Loudspeaker 1 can play electronic bass with any level you want,,shake the floor
bang in the chest,,,and totally clean..i have used a 500w 8ohm ---1000w 4ohm amp
absolute no problem,
my room is 7m long -- 7m wide --2,4m high
bang in the chest,,,and totally clean..i have used a 500w 8ohm ---1000w 4ohm amp
absolute no problem,
my room is 7m long -- 7m wide --2,4m high
+1 to beardman
With muy Hypex ncore nc500 I cannot set the volume Even to half way or my ears will explode.
My room is 40m2 and 2,60m height.
With muy Hypex ncore nc500 I cannot set the volume Even to half way or my ears will explode.
My room is 40m2 and 2,60m height.
ok, so what you are saying is that my 8008 hasn' been dammaged by a too high level ? Because for me it's clear that the 8008 suffered from a burst of bass, since the coil has been distorded by heat : i was playing very high level, without any distorsion, then impressed by a burst of bass - chemical brothers - under influence - at 58'' - and just after that, i heard that something was wrong... and know i'm afraid to do that again.
the 8008 can not handle so many watt,, it have no crossover in bottom..
all unit in the Loudspeaker kan handle much more power ( PA unit )
all unit in the Loudspeaker kan handle much more power ( PA unit )
That's true. Troels didn't make the speaker, Seas made it for him, (with some specific modifications that he requested in the cone and the surround suspension, I think I remember), but it was not profitable for SEAS to change the basket / VC / pole piece structure for a few hundred units.- Troels has been honest and sincere when mentioning it, so this controller is exclusively for home use, and if used judiciously it will last for many years, because there is no foam enclosure there, luckily.
I think the base for the JA8008 was the H1471-08 CA22RNY and you can see that the "musical" power handling is 250 Watts, but for "short periods" ..... although for hours and hours of use PA accumulation Thermal wreaks havoc.
H1471-08 CA22RNY
I think the base for the JA8008 was the H1471-08 CA22RNY and you can see that the "musical" power handling is 250 Watts, but for "short periods" ..... although for hours and hours of use PA accumulation Thermal wreaks havoc.
H1471-08 CA22RNY
@ beardman oups sorry i confuse your answer with academia50, you have the loudspeaker, his a dtqwt. So your answer seems to confirm that the loudspeaker would be a good evolution for me
@ academia : but your were saying the loudspeaker woudn't manage higher level better than dtqwt, on the contrary, so.. ?
@raelman : thanks for the answer on the height, even if it will be a problem for me 🙂
@ academia : but your were saying the loudspeaker woudn't manage higher level better than dtqwt, on the contrary, so.. ?
@raelman : thanks for the answer on the height, even if it will be a problem for me 🙂
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xam198
I was referring to a bit more sound pressure in a closed room because we have a horn / labyrinth that helps raise the SPL of the JA8008, in the low-mid range.
But The Loudspeaker will be more appropriate for high volumes when using public address components as mentioned by beardman. That being said, you would definitely not be safe with DTQWTII, if you prefer to listen like this for extended periods of time.
True high fidelity is based on the recognition of an ear trained to listen to musical instruments without amplification, (tonality) and if possible at their natural volume.
And here you have to choose according to the musical genre that you listen to the most.
Have you considered The Loudspeakers with a Bheringer NX3000D? Maybe you do not need to complicate more.
You have everything there to enjoy "modern" music made with electronic instruments at the volume you want, even the excessive noise of the Bheringer's fan will not bother you.
I was referring to a bit more sound pressure in a closed room because we have a horn / labyrinth that helps raise the SPL of the JA8008, in the low-mid range.
But The Loudspeaker will be more appropriate for high volumes when using public address components as mentioned by beardman. That being said, you would definitely not be safe with DTQWTII, if you prefer to listen like this for extended periods of time.
True high fidelity is based on the recognition of an ear trained to listen to musical instruments without amplification, (tonality) and if possible at their natural volume.
And here you have to choose according to the musical genre that you listen to the most.
Have you considered The Loudspeakers with a Bheringer NX3000D? Maybe you do not need to complicate more.
You have everything there to enjoy "modern" music made with electronic instruments at the volume you want, even the excessive noise of the Bheringer's fan will not bother you.
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