Hello all, I want to build a two way speakers for a room in which we makes party with friends.
I want excellent sound, but with low cost speakers and probably this will be a difficult mission and for that i want help from you. I decided this year to make two two way speakers and next year will add a subwoofer probably one big 18 inch Precision Devices PD-1851 or BMS 18N862 , but no budget for them now.
For woofer my budget is 100-130 euro and i prefer to be 10 inch because no more space for bigger driver/box.
For CD i hope to fit in around 50 -60 euro
I searching for low cost woofers with high performance, to get maximum DB and i find LaVoce WAF102.50 which give me 119db in 25 liters box with 150 watts signal by WinISD.
For CD I see that have many cheap options but which is better i don't know, I also check here in the forum, but that what i find is mostly more expensive like BMS 4550 and B&C DE250 and try to find second hand BMS 4550, but i cant find used in my country,and i hope you guys to help me to choice best value for the money. I also see in the LaVoce brand very nice curve of the LaVoce DF10.144LK at price which is in my budget but i'm not sure will be ok or not for this woofer or you will suggest me some other woofer which will sound better.
Please give suggestion for excellent sound 10 inch woofer and CD 🙏
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I have also 2 tweeter SEAS 27TDFC, but im not sure if they would be suitable for a high performance 10 inch pro driver.
I want excellent sound, but with low cost speakers and probably this will be a difficult mission and for that i want help from you. I decided this year to make two two way speakers and next year will add a subwoofer probably one big 18 inch Precision Devices PD-1851 or BMS 18N862 , but no budget for them now.
For woofer my budget is 100-130 euro and i prefer to be 10 inch because no more space for bigger driver/box.
For CD i hope to fit in around 50 -60 euro
I searching for low cost woofers with high performance, to get maximum DB and i find LaVoce WAF102.50 which give me 119db in 25 liters box with 150 watts signal by WinISD.
For CD I see that have many cheap options but which is better i don't know, I also check here in the forum, but that what i find is mostly more expensive like BMS 4550 and B&C DE250 and try to find second hand BMS 4550, but i cant find used in my country,and i hope you guys to help me to choice best value for the money. I also see in the LaVoce brand very nice curve of the LaVoce DF10.144LK at price which is in my budget but i'm not sure will be ok or not for this woofer or you will suggest me some other woofer which will sound better.
Please give suggestion for excellent sound 10 inch woofer and CD 🙏
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I have also 2 tweeter SEAS 27TDFC, but im not sure if they would be suitable for a high performance 10 inch pro driver.
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Not 10" (12" instead) but still low cost:
https://www.donhighend.de/?page_id=9829
Eventually use google translator!
https://www.donhighend.de/?page_id=9829
Eventually use google translator!
Eminence Beta-10CX is a decent option if it's available wherever you are.
https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-Beta-10CX-10-Coaxial-Driver-290-502?quantity=1
This compression driver works pretty well with it
JBL Selenium D202Ti
https://www.parts-express.com/Selenium-D202Ti-1-Titanium-Horn-Driver-1-3-8-18-TPI-264-455?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-Beta-10CX-10-Coaxial-Driver-290-502?quantity=1
This compression driver works pretty well with it
JBL Selenium D202Ti
https://www.parts-express.com/Selenium-D202Ti-1-Titanium-Horn-Driver-1-3-8-18-TPI-264-455?quantity=1
A Beyma 10BR60 or 12BR70 are very good at this, i used the 12BR70 for a 2 way small party sound (but with an expensive tweeter) and no sub is needed there (tuned to 30Hz in an huge MLTL)
For tweeter it's more difficult to stay into budget. If you use the 10BR60 you can cut arround 1500Hz (4th order), and you can use the B&C DE360 compression driver in a horn like the RFC 100. That combo cost arround 100€ down here and is relative good. Also cut at 1500Hz with high order filter. That can be what you want if you use a dsp as crossover (or let someone that knows what he does make a passive one, it needs to be done right).
But your budget is very small for such a build. The party sound that i build costed arround 3K (including amps and dsp), build in high quality Beech ply (birch ply was unavaileble then). There will be more costs than only the driver, you also need the amps and the crossover (be it dsp or passive), and don't forget that wood, screws, glue, ... also add to the cost, and it can cost a lot (especially wood)
For tweeter it's more difficult to stay into budget. If you use the 10BR60 you can cut arround 1500Hz (4th order), and you can use the B&C DE360 compression driver in a horn like the RFC 100. That combo cost arround 100€ down here and is relative good. Also cut at 1500Hz with high order filter. That can be what you want if you use a dsp as crossover (or let someone that knows what he does make a passive one, it needs to be done right).
But your budget is very small for such a build. The party sound that i build costed arround 3K (including amps and dsp), build in high quality Beech ply (birch ply was unavaileble then). There will be more costs than only the driver, you also need the amps and the crossover (be it dsp or passive), and don't forget that wood, screws, glue, ... also add to the cost, and it can cost a lot (especially wood)
This Beyma is good driver but don't have enough power(DB).
The room is not big and when my children makes party they are not more than 10 people and I think that two 10 inch tops and one sub will be enough. I have several amps and i have dsp. I very want to try to make a crossover with VituixCAD 2, and I try something before i get the speakers.
The room is not big and when my children makes party they are not more than 10 people and I think that two 10 inch tops and one sub will be enough. I have several amps and i have dsp. I very want to try to make a crossover with VituixCAD 2, and I try something before i get the speakers.
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Looks to be missing impedance data, full space data, and no XYZ positions.
So unfortunately wont be valid impedance curve, response or phase information.
Great tool, but up to user to produce correct model.
You have to include full space models from diffraction tool, use driver impedance not generic values.
And assign positions. Correct phase is important or nothing will sum as shown.
So unfortunately wont be valid impedance curve, response or phase information.
Great tool, but up to user to produce correct model.
You have to include full space models from diffraction tool, use driver impedance not generic values.
And assign positions. Correct phase is important or nothing will sum as shown.
I don't know how loud you want it, but that beyma goes very loud, easely over 110dB, and you will never go that loud in a room. Night clubs in Belgium don't go over 95dBa by law, and it's still very loud...
Those Lavoces you mentioned won't do it neighter in reality. Certainly that tweeter is trash, the woofer is ok, but not better than the Beyma's i mentioned.
Those Lavoces you mentioned won't do it neighter in reality. Certainly that tweeter is trash, the woofer is ok, but not better than the Beyma's i mentioned.
What are the dimensions of the room? You may be overestimating the SPL you need. Loud is fun but hearing loss at a young age isn't...
Ran this setup as my test speakers (forum 120W amps) and as party speaker for 15 years. I am amazed they survived the 120W amps (party/drunk).
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DS215-8-8-Designer-Series-Woofer-295-430?quantity=1
I just use a pair of generic soft domes from MCM as the tweeters. Looks like the same taiwan driver factory as the dayton DC28F tweeter.
Soundwise they totally blow away either of my Polk's in both image and loudness. REAL good bass @ .7cu/ft with a small port.
Wolverine and Badger proof (120 and 150W ! ).
Only my 8" peerless 3-ways sound a little bit more detailed. Speakers are too expensive these days , just 160 for a pair is
alright for "party speakers" ???
Oh , nearly 90db efficiency , my little 60W Sonance amp rocks the room.
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We live in a different world. I work like pro DJ in club more than 25 years and the sound in the club is around 130db, i dont know how in Belgium club work only with 95db because on this db the people will silence the system just by talking and if they start singing what will happen, don't believe. My system in home is 124db and when 10 girls start singing its not enough, but is ok and i hope to make similar to this power.
I have also 2 tweeter SEAS 27TDFC, but im not sure if they would be suitable for a high performance 10 inch pro driver.
I have also 2 tweeter SEAS 27TDFC, but im not sure if they would be suitable for a high performance 10 inch pro driver.
I just found the program and tried with these two drivers how it works. I don't know how and what I should do at all, but I really hope to learn how to make a good crossover. If you don't mind, I'll send you a private message when I decide which speakers I'll get, so you can give me instructions on how to work with the program properly. I have MiniDSP UMIK-1, but i used till now only for measurement and setting of the DSP.
Sorry, that is ********, 130dB makes you deaf, it's beyond the painborder, and a little under a lethal dosis of sound. It's as loud as standing next to a jetengine of a plane. EU rules are very similar to Belgian noise rules, and won't be much higher than what i said. Even underground raves who don't follow the rules won't go beyond 110dB(A), as nobody wants that.
Btw, i'm also 30 years a dj, and did do festivals and clubs also. Next to that i was also a former sound engineer specialised in high power dj setups. So...
I think your dB measuring system don't work like it should. You probally use a phone and an app, that is not precise at all. If you would measure in that club with a calibrated dB meter you woudl probally get similar results, maube to 105dB if it goes very loud, but certainly not 130dB. You can't handle that, and your ears certainly not.
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Can you please explain to me and I believe there has many people like me, which whant to know for what to searching when they see specs of the driver, how to know that this driver is good or not only when see the specs and curves? Or you already listen this tweeter? I truly don't know and i want to know more about this how to choose a driver.
I chek my system now with pink noise and Rew and Umik 1 and its 98db, you are right about this.
This is measurement of my current system in my living room.
Are you suggesting that a 10" PA driver in a small room won't be loud enough? Perhaps if you could let us know how quickly you wish to damage the children's hearing we can help with some more ideas. 😉
I think perhaps that you are misunderstanding what 124dB sounds like despite your background experience...
It's a little bit more complicated:
For letting VituixCAD predict the vertical directivity of a loudspeaker it can be useful to enter X- and Y-coordinates. But for working correctly you have to measure each driver on its own axis.
But if your measurements include valid phase informations by having used a timing reference while measuring (like recommended i.e. for VituixCAD), entering values for the Z-coordinate could be even harmful.
Best regards
Michael
A specific driver is not the main problem. The issue is system design. 2.1, 4.1, or 4.2 will produce superior results. People & their clothing absorb mid and high-frequencies. A 12" sub on the floor with fulls fixed above 2m will produce better sound with less power.
I have space only for 10 inch not more!
I check the Beyma and the Lavoce and this is what i look for.
Cone excursion to be low than this red line, SPL to be more high and Rear port air velocity in same box but in different tuning frequency and same system input power.
I check the Beyma and the Lavoce and this is what i look for.
Cone excursion to be low than this red line, SPL to be more high and Rear port air velocity in same box but in different tuning frequency and same system input power.
Your models are irrelevant in a real world situation. If somebody in a fur coat stands in front of your speaker - the game's up. Why do you think so many speakers and amps are blown at house parties?