Hello there. I have a technical question about subwoofer enclosure compatibility. I know that you need X subwoofer parameters in order to build an enclosure that specifically will performance excellent only in that subwoofer. (although there are in the market lots of, let's say "universal" ported/vented enclosures, that this factor also put me to think the next below)
My question is if, I put a subwoofer which have different specs, will the box still sound excellent because there's no really big difference if not matching the specs of both. Maybe the port tunning will simple go up some hz, example it came from 28hz to... 30hz ? or is that very big the problem that our low frequency will dramatically go up if we use a not specifically calculated enclosure?
My question is if, I put a subwoofer which have different specs, will the box still sound excellent because there's no really big difference if not matching the specs of both. Maybe the port tunning will simple go up some hz, example it came from 28hz to... 30hz ? or is that very big the problem that our low frequency will dramatically go up if we use a not specifically calculated enclosure?
You may be lucky, or you may not.
However, there is no harm in putting the speaker in and see what happens. You can measure the real fr response, or if you can not measure, just listen.
You can always close the port, if its way off.
However, there is no harm in putting the speaker in and see what happens. You can measure the real fr response, or if you can not measure, just listen.
You can always close the port, if its way off.
I see. I am one of those person who always are crafting with something. I recently have decided to "play" making enclosures and trying subwoofers. I have some woodworking skills and have several power tools for projects.
At first instance, I think that I am going to start making a sealed enclosure. Manufacturer says that enclosure should has at least 1 cubic feet, but they did not mention on the paper what's the max 3f value I can build and use.
First I decided to make it 2.0 cubic feet. Subwoofer is 12" and handles about 1000w rms. Can anybody orient me what's in theory the max cubic size I can use for this? I need to know if for example, if I can beyond go that value that manufacturer said and sound even better, maybe knowing this the manufacturer, but they decided to point more to convenient size, still having an excellent performance instead of maximum possible performance.
Please any help, don't make me build a "variable" 10 cubic feet enclosure and experimenting with that, I have no enough wood for that task, so I hope to get a value here before anything. Thanks.
At first instance, I think that I am going to start making a sealed enclosure. Manufacturer says that enclosure should has at least 1 cubic feet, but they did not mention on the paper what's the max 3f value I can build and use.
First I decided to make it 2.0 cubic feet. Subwoofer is 12" and handles about 1000w rms. Can anybody orient me what's in theory the max cubic size I can use for this? I need to know if for example, if I can beyond go that value that manufacturer said and sound even better, maybe knowing this the manufacturer, but they decided to point more to convenient size, still having an excellent performance instead of maximum possible performance.
Please any help, don't make me build a "variable" 10 cubic feet enclosure and experimenting with that, I have no enough wood for that task, so I hope to get a value here before anything. Thanks.
there are some "rule of thumb" enclosures used, especially in car audio for drivers of certain sizes. ie, .5-.75 ft^3 for a 10, 1-1.5ft^3 for a 12 and so on. these tend to be a balance of performance vs size and power handling, and factor in the gain of a the typical vehicle.
without the specifics of the subwoofer (it's parameters) and your intended application, there is no real way to compare or even begin to have data. however, whats the max cubic feet you can build? well, infinite. however, going back to the rules of thumb, if they spec a 1ft^3 box, 1.5 in a car will usually net a slightly better low end, sacrificing, typically, max power. when moving that speaker indoors, a 1.5 ft^3 to 2ft^3 enclosure will, again, typically, net a decent response in room. the power handling typically goes down, but is offset due to the usual listening volume. this is reduced by the lack of road noise etc.
to have more than spit balling or rules of thumb, or even round about estimates, specifics become essential.
without the specifics of the subwoofer (it's parameters) and your intended application, there is no real way to compare or even begin to have data. however, whats the max cubic feet you can build? well, infinite. however, going back to the rules of thumb, if they spec a 1ft^3 box, 1.5 in a car will usually net a slightly better low end, sacrificing, typically, max power. when moving that speaker indoors, a 1.5 ft^3 to 2ft^3 enclosure will, again, typically, net a decent response in room. the power handling typically goes down, but is offset due to the usual listening volume. this is reduced by the lack of road noise etc.
to have more than spit balling or rules of thumb, or even round about estimates, specifics become essential.
Hey hello, well I am planning not going to far from recommended size, what about just adding half more cubic feet? And by the way, I just changed my mind and going to build something for 15" driver instead. Data sheet is suggesting 2.0 cubic feet sealed enclosure, bus as I want to going extreme, I am wondering if 2.5 or even 3 cubic feet are still not only suitable, but even better. As I mentioned before, I am going to buy from boss audio, since I want something cheap but with great value, which is the boss case. They say that can handle 1250w RMS, then, I simply feed with no more than 1000 and everything will go ok even in long term as I have read.
I feel bad throwing here this link as if you are going to do my homework, but really need help because I have no big idea how big can I make the enclosure in order to improve sound as much as possible.
http://www.bossaudio.com/manual/P156DVC_EN_UM.PDF
🙂 Thanks.
The recommended vented box doesn't gain much at all over sealed, and actually has less power handling. If you already bought it, put it in a sealed box 1.5-2 cubic feet. IF not, look elsewhere. That driver is junk. While the coil might take 1000W if immersed in liquid nitrogen, the driver only has 8mm of Xmax and can be handily bested by drivers costing $50. This one Pyle - PLPW15D-Marine and Waterproof-Vehicle Subwoofers-On the Road-Vehicle Subwoofers would probably be much better for the money.
Skip the car stereo and get your significant other something nice, you'll treasure the memory long after that car stereo has been stolen.
Skip the car stereo and get your significant other something nice, you'll treasure the memory long after that car stereo has been stolen.
Wow, I like it. So far I have not made or bought the enclosure, I am still designing it, I am going to build a 2.5 cf sealed enclosure. And try that cubic volume, then will drop the interior volume to 2.0 and see how the speaker behaves, I want to do this because want to make some scientific observations. It seems like manufacturers will never through that value. 😀 Thanks.
I am going to use 3.4 MDF, and use two bracings, so I will have 4 walls giving support (including baffle and bottom side).
save the cash and skip the science the hard way, its been done. with that driver, the volume change, while significant to "us" is insignificant to a driver that wants gigantic space. as ron put it, it's "junk"
depending on what you'd pay, a far better driver could be chosen by which you could play with all sorts of enclosures.... bargain basement side of these drivers are about $60US, which is about the cost of the driver you want on a cursory google search.
For a sealed enclosure, will 2 cubic feet be enough to support very powerful 12" subwoofers? talking about 1000 to even 2000 rms watts?. I am still not done with my hyper dooper sealed enclosure, which will be at least 2.0 sf, I am making it with 1.5" walls and 3 support bracings making it solid as hell, I am pointing this thing to maximum sealed performance, so I am wondering if 2.0 will cover all very hungry needs? All this for a 12" subwoofer.
There are a lot of parameters which determine how big of a cab needed for a certain driver, be it bass reflex, sealed and so forth. can't just say 12"
Using the wrong ported enclosure
This is meant just as general info about ways to answer some of the questions you originally posted.
It's another DIY forum devoted to designing/ building speakers.
There is also a "Tech Talk" forum there and they post a great deal of information about building speaker cabinets.
Resources - Build A Speaker
Regards,
Jim aka TunesForMe
This is meant just as general info about ways to answer some of the questions you originally posted.
It's another DIY forum devoted to designing/ building speakers.
There is also a "Tech Talk" forum there and they post a great deal of information about building speaker cabinets.
Resources - Build A Speaker
Regards,
Jim aka TunesForMe
Well, I just found one kicker specs saying no more than 2.0 cf for one of their very powerful subwoofers. Problem was that I looked at the specs of many brands and they did not mentioned anything about max recommended volume size values, I was with the doubt if their value size was pointing more to space saving than maximum possible performance. Surely is not worth it or even wrong making a sealed enclosure with more than 2.0 cf, at least not for a 12" driver. I know that required volume sizes are not universal, but at least in sealed enclosures this value is flexible, that's what I have been reading.
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FYI, Kicker and other mobile audio brands usually only publish info for speakers designed to work in an acoustically tiny vehicle, so much too small and usually tuned too high with too small a vent [if ported] for use in a typical HIFI/HT app, i.e. ignore them.
GM
GM
Can I down the Hz of a sealed enclosure by making it bigger? of course all this without letting down other important facts, and having all balanced to low frequency and still good power. I think sealed subwoofers are very similar to drums, they sound lower when they are bigger, al this in my head, need someone to explain me or discover by myself with the proper equipment.
Hi nicasiox2.
You may have already mentioned this but are you building a subwoofer for car or home?
You may have already mentioned this but are you building a subwoofer for car or home?
OP said he wants to play and also to end up with a good sub. To play, you need a mic or sound level meter and REW (total cost about $60), otherwise you are playing in the dark.
Whenever I see those recommendations for one cubic foot sealed boxes, I roll my eyes. There's no optimum size because different sizes give different results. Plain screwball reasoning to end up with small boxes (which cut off the speaker at say 55 Hz, which is awful) when the real struggle is to extend the speaker range lower... which means as large a box as your spouse can tolerate. At some point, maybe 6-8 cu ft, you run into sharply diminishing improvements in reaching down to the driver's natural (free-air) resonance.
While I don't think resonant boxes are appropriate for making music at home, there's more fun to be had playing with ports and seeing your results in REW. OP is basically right to think that the basic Helmholtz tuning is the basic parameter of a tuned box; sims further based on the driver's parameters help with secondary issues.
Ben
Whenever I see those recommendations for one cubic foot sealed boxes, I roll my eyes. There's no optimum size because different sizes give different results. Plain screwball reasoning to end up with small boxes (which cut off the speaker at say 55 Hz, which is awful) when the real struggle is to extend the speaker range lower... which means as large a box as your spouse can tolerate. At some point, maybe 6-8 cu ft, you run into sharply diminishing improvements in reaching down to the driver's natural (free-air) resonance.
While I don't think resonant boxes are appropriate for making music at home, there's more fun to be had playing with ports and seeing your results in REW. OP is basically right to think that the basic Helmholtz tuning is the basic parameter of a tuned box; sims further based on the driver's parameters help with secondary issues.
Ben
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