Unless the power banks support USB PD they probably only have 5V output.
Some have USBc pd labeled outputs. How does USBc pd work.. is it possible to tap into some of the pins and extract 12-20v. Or the device being charged needs to have a circuit that will let usbc pd output port deliver 12-20v. I thought usbc is 5v by default and will out put higher voltage if the device has the capability to take higher voltage.
As already discussed in this thread the charger and the device to be charged (power bank in this case) need to negotiate the available capability. Typically this requires that both the charger and the device has a chip that supports USB PD.
So I need some chip like this? Usbc to higher voltage
Chip has usbc pd as input and + and - that outputs 12-20v
https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600252089262/9v-20v-15v-12v-Decoy-E.html
Need to find something tested and reliable
Chip has usbc pd as input and + and - that outputs 12-20v
https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600252089262/9v-20v-15v-12v-Decoy-E.html
Need to find something tested and reliable
In a nutshell, and by what you mention, you have "a lot of leftover power banks"
Which hints at them being the commonest plain vanilla type: 5V and not that many mA-H capability.
Fine to recharge a cellphone in the middle of nowhere ... and not much else.
Quite unsuitable to power a 15-20V fed 20 to 50W power amp, even if Class D
Your choice, personally I would build a 15-20V battery pack (maybe even salvaging some from your old units, if compatible) plus a 5V to 15-20V (as needed) step up charging module.
That would be he closest "practical" answer to what you are asking for.
Remember it will probably take, say, 2 hour charging time (or more) for every hour "use time"
My personal experience, not exactly the same but somewhat comparable: back in the day (80s 90s) I used to make "Busker" (street Musician) type amplifiers.
Quite powerful compared to competition, some real 40W RMS, powered by a 12V 7AH "alarm type" lead acid battery.
No Li-Ion wonders way back then.
I fit them with an "intelligent" charger which allowed 1A continuous for the first few hours, then trickled down to keep them safely charged even if user forgot to plug them off.
Instructions were: plug them at night, unplug them next day and go out to do your thing"
So in practice they charged for 8-12 hours (remember charging current was constantly going down so NO damaging overcharge possible), had enough "juice" for 2-3 hours continuous sinewave tone ... but given Music and Speech are intermittent, pulsating, Musicians could easily cover a 5-6-7 hour Street session.
Remember there are pauses between songs, lower level speech to ask people to contribute, time between one set ending and the beginning of the next one to allow public replacement, even to move to another point of a public park, etc.
My point? Never ever had any artist to cut a show short because of lack of battery.
So I suggest you aim at a similar capacity, or better: 12V * 7AH = 84WH of better, for loud and usable portable sound.
Do NOT aim at higher power, you´ll only get shorter time.
High efficiency speakers are a must, so PA or "Guitar" type preferred.
Which hints at them being the commonest plain vanilla type: 5V and not that many mA-H capability.
Fine to recharge a cellphone in the middle of nowhere ... and not much else.
Quite unsuitable to power a 15-20V fed 20 to 50W power amp, even if Class D
Your choice, personally I would build a 15-20V battery pack (maybe even salvaging some from your old units, if compatible) plus a 5V to 15-20V (as needed) step up charging module.
That would be he closest "practical" answer to what you are asking for.
Remember it will probably take, say, 2 hour charging time (or more) for every hour "use time"
My personal experience, not exactly the same but somewhat comparable: back in the day (80s 90s) I used to make "Busker" (street Musician) type amplifiers.
Quite powerful compared to competition, some real 40W RMS, powered by a 12V 7AH "alarm type" lead acid battery.
No Li-Ion wonders way back then.
I fit them with an "intelligent" charger which allowed 1A continuous for the first few hours, then trickled down to keep them safely charged even if user forgot to plug them off.
Instructions were: plug them at night, unplug them next day and go out to do your thing"
So in practice they charged for 8-12 hours (remember charging current was constantly going down so NO damaging overcharge possible), had enough "juice" for 2-3 hours continuous sinewave tone ... but given Music and Speech are intermittent, pulsating, Musicians could easily cover a 5-6-7 hour Street session.
Remember there are pauses between songs, lower level speech to ask people to contribute, time between one set ending and the beginning of the next one to allow public replacement, even to move to another point of a public park, etc.
My point? Never ever had any artist to cut a show short because of lack of battery.
So I suggest you aim at a similar capacity, or better: 12V * 7AH = 84WH of better, for loud and usable portable sound.
Do NOT aim at higher power, you´ll only get shorter time.
High efficiency speakers are a must, so PA or "Guitar" type preferred.
Some battery packs I have are 25600mAh
+ Class d amp and small 3" 30watt max full range one driver speakers. I think. 10000-20000 mAh is plenty.
I'll send exact specs when home.
At the moment best solution is to use Ryobi battery and charger (I use lots of Ryobi tools for work)
If we can find fast usbc to 12-20v converter chip that will make things a bit more elegant
Charge with overly abundant usbc and less junk to carry around..nothing sticking out of speakers
+ Class d amp and small 3" 30watt max full range one driver speakers. I think. 10000-20000 mAh is plenty.
I'll send exact specs when home.
At the moment best solution is to use Ryobi battery and charger (I use lots of Ryobi tools for work)
If we can find fast usbc to 12-20v converter chip that will make things a bit more elegant
Charge with overly abundant usbc and less junk to carry around..nothing sticking out of speakers
25600 mAH means some 128WH, some 50% above my "practical minimum" so should be fine ... if true that is 😉
I wouldn´t hold my breath over some generic Alibaba stuff, but hey, you might get lucky.
Not so sure about the "overly abundant usbc" you mention, I guess individual capacity will vary and not all will meet the "maximum" USBc spec you count on.
Me? I would carry in my back pocket a nice Laptop or Ryobi charging brick and play it safe.
Availability would amply compensate the added weight and size.
Even If those USBc jacks can charge your battery pack, I bet most would do it slooowwwwlllyyyy, tying you up to that charging spot, negating the portability of your system.
Me? I would carry a properly rated one, which can fully charge the system in 1 hour or less.
Any more than that, it´s a hindrance, not a feature.
I wouldn´t hold my breath over some generic Alibaba stuff, but hey, you might get lucky.
Not so sure about the "overly abundant usbc" you mention, I guess individual capacity will vary and not all will meet the "maximum" USBc spec you count on.
Me? I would carry in my back pocket a nice Laptop or Ryobi charging brick and play it safe.
Availability would amply compensate the added weight and size.
Even If those USBc jacks can charge your battery pack, I bet most would do it slooowwwwlllyyyy, tying you up to that charging spot, negating the portability of your system.
Me? I would carry a properly rated one, which can fully charge the system in 1 hour or less.
Any more than that, it´s a hindrance, not a feature.
Baseus PPBLD100-S 100W USB-C Powerbank (100W USB-C PD charger for charging).
Amplifier needs ZY12PDN USB-C PD Controller.
JP
Amplifier needs ZY12PDN USB-C PD Controller.
JP
Cool 🙂
But if you still need to carry a power pack charger plus a step up converter, I'd avoid the middleman and straight carry the direct battery charger.
jm2c
But if you still need to carry a power pack charger plus a step up converter, I'd avoid the middleman and straight carry the direct battery charger.
jm2c
I'll give ZY12PDN a try. Very interesting. Should be a done deal.
Thanks for the find.
18v direct is good but I like to live slim(less stuff laying around)
Ryobi 18v DC.(which I have to have on me anyway 90% of the time)
Or this adapter are 2 options.. with usbc things will look more slick and can charge everywhere (in my car, airplane, on spaceX shuttle, Europe, america, china, Antarctica) . All those places have USBc available at any instant of space and time.
Ryobi needs to be 120v outlet. Less freedoms. I'll feel like I am incarcerated. JMfahey Usbc is like having your own truck as opposed to using public transport.
But I might make one set with Ryobi charger integrated into the speakers. So I can listen to music while standing and waiting for a Ryobi battery to charge. Hifi audio system/Ryobi charger combo sort of thing
Thanks for the find.
18v direct is good but I like to live slim(less stuff laying around)
Ryobi 18v DC.(which I have to have on me anyway 90% of the time)
Or this adapter are 2 options.. with usbc things will look more slick and can charge everywhere (in my car, airplane, on spaceX shuttle, Europe, america, china, Antarctica) . All those places have USBc available at any instant of space and time.
Ryobi needs to be 120v outlet. Less freedoms. I'll feel like I am incarcerated. JMfahey Usbc is like having your own truck as opposed to using public transport.
But I might make one set with Ryobi charger integrated into the speakers. So I can listen to music while standing and waiting for a Ryobi battery to charge. Hifi audio system/Ryobi charger combo sort of thing