Vintage "Jensen" Enclosures

If you say so. 🙄
You do realize I mean layered flat panels glued together??
I found some candidate panels from a very old piano. Definitely the best piece will be my front baffle. So 3/4 mdf to a 1 inch thick hardwood edge glued panel that is pristine mahogany veneer.
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Got my donor panel 1st cut done to further refine and hand fit each cabinet. Nice surprise when I cut these was discovering the core is not just edge glued, it is dovetail construction. When combined with the mdf my baffle thickness is 1.69. I'm still deciding on TM VS MTM for the second enclosures. I also am looking at the Morel TweeMid and put it all in this enclosure. But the woofer to mid xovr might be a challenge w the 12. I like that 12 a lot for these sealed and Madisound thinks good choice too. Might not need a sub.
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You do realize I mean layered flat panels glued together??
I found some candidate panels from a very old piano. Definitely the best piece will be my front baffle. So 3/4 mdf to a 1 inch thick hardwood edge glued panel that is pristine mahogany veneer
Your last picture shows what I thought that panel would be: several pieces of some hardwood glued together with a layer of thick veneer (you won't find that today) glued across the grain, on both sides. Then, the panels are veneered (thick veneer again) parallel to the hardwood grain. This makes the panels stable. If your Jensen cabinet is made the same way your idea of glueing an inert panel (MDF or plywood) is relatively safe. If it's not made that way you're asking for trouble. Don't believe me? Tell me the wood, how wide it is, and I can tell you how much that panel will move with humidity.
 
Still have to make a top, cut and fit brace, port will be supportedby brace, & strengthen base. Base will get leveler feet. Drivers are here Thursday. Each cabinet now weighs 70lbs with a bit more to do. Now designing MTM w integral waveguide cut into baffle. Using the Zaph 2.5 waveguide shape but revising mouth for CAT308. I hope my choice for mid woofers is sound.....lmao
 

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Sometimes it turns out right when you go to use/reuse wood that has such a past. At first when you mentioned the dovetailing, I figured that you were wrong. I mean everything out there now a days is misunderstood as 'dovetailing'. Then I saw the photo and just shook my head. Haven't seen something like that in many years, if ever. Great find. I really hope for the best in how it works out for this project.
 
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I will just add this. A long time ago, a friend of mine gave me a hexagon shaped box that his dad made. I suppose the hexagon itself was 8" in diameter and 13" high. Ok, a little background about his father is needed. This is the guy that say Sony would call to put up a display at a consumer show or some such event. This means that he had an extensive shop and worked with many different materials to produce such a display. I thought nothing about all of that until decided that I was going to take the hexagon box apart and repurpose it for something else. Too late in the game I realized that this guy had used full length metal splines to make the joints strong. Let's just say that it didn't end up coming apart as I would have hoped. This in comparison to so many products where cost cutting is too large a factor.
 
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FML the mids & tweets are perfect looking. The sb acoustic 12s are filled with decesant beads, the voice coils are chock full of beads. The plastic bag looks like it was ground into some of the beads while being four wheeled in the woods. I just emailed Adam @ Madisound.
 
Seeing what I could make using a double stack of 1x10 for my baffle. This box is 2026 cubic inches before bracing and without the driver displacement. My question - is using the Morel CAT 308 with its included chamber suitable to use without it's own enclosure?
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More getting done. Really stressful cutting baffles that have no easy replacement. This antique Piano panel will live on to make more Music, to make more waves of beauty. Kinda loving this the more I get done. I think these are going to work better in my room. I think the room is just on the small and congested size with furniture for the 15s to do their thing. Add to that a More narrow box with more wall clearance, yep these are going to be an improvement. Probably do a single 18 down the road but may not need it. I need to do my tops. And I need to make some decisions on the port to use. I can go traditional pipe port or I can use that bottom section of the speakers base w front face and make an adjustable rectangular port. That port would use 5 1x1 ( that is a guess I need to do some port math) felt covered plugs allowing the port size to be changed on either side of the 3x10 pipe volume that is suggested.
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Well I am done with major work and am waiting on Speakon connectors & some bulk wire rolls. These are not perfect but pretty close. Look amazing up close way better than these pics. I need to weigh these, but easily 60 pounds. I have added a drawing that shows my overall build. Do you have any concerns over my speaker spacing or use of this waveguide built into the baffle? I have not built the upper enclosures yet and am starting that process with gathering materials.
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One of the most rewarding things about Audio is you are always learning and improving. This change in Sub woofers (I am using these for Subs whilst I build the other enclosures) has brought several key points to mind and solid Audio improvement.
1. The 15s I had previous were not well designed box wise and had some very noticeable resonance that was all poor box. These SB34NRX75-6 in the new enclosures are night and day better. Holding your hand on the 15s then these 12s playing at normal volume are shockingly different. You very much feel the 15s box buzz, these 12s are so solid and heavy you can not feel anything while they are a kicking............
2. Those 15s really needed a bigger room to breath in and were not that musical. These 12s are very musical bringing details to bass content I was unaware of. The physical connection in your chest and body is there now.
3. My towers were raised far too high and I already knew it, yet had kind of eqed around that. What I did not realize was that not only would the front sound better with the tweeter lowered, was that the entire surround field of sound became dramatically more accurate and clear. Like a lot.

I think taking time to play with speaker placement and aiming is something many folks just miss. You should get your best sound via placement and aiming, with the least EQ correction, before a true EQ tweaking session.
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