Has anyone seen anything similar in the DIY world? I would PAY someone for a clone or similar design! I don't know of a similar kit available. $8000 is soooooo far out of my league!
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Agreed. That would definitely have to change if I were building a clone ... if I could that is. The allure for me, is a very efficient horn speaker, without the typical horn negatives. That sounds very desirable to me.
$8000 for this: Volti Audio Rival loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
That’s a big “Whoops!”.
I’ve listened to a lot of the Volti’s. Nope, thumbs down, far off the mark. Not remotely neutral. A big happy face frequency response curve and horrendous off axis measurements.
“ Summing up the Volti Rival's measured performance is difficult: Its perceived balance will depend to a greater degree than usual on the listener's choice of music and the size and acoustics of the room. Against those reservations must be balanced the speaker's extraordinarily high sensitivity. I hate it when an audio writer says, "Listen for yourself"—but in the case of the Rival, that's all I can say.—John Atkinson”
Best,
Anand.
That’s a big “Whoops!”.
I’ve listened to a lot of the Volti’s. Nope, thumbs down, far off the mark. Not remotely neutral. A big happy face frequency response curve and horrendous off axis measurements.
“ Summing up the Volti Rival's measured performance is difficult: Its perceived balance will depend to a greater degree than usual on the listener's choice of music and the size and acoustics of the room. Against those reservations must be balanced the speaker's extraordinarily high sensitivity. I hate it when an audio writer says, "Listen for yourself"—but in the case of the Rival, that's all I can say.—John Atkinson”
Best,
Anand.
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Probably this is little help, but I think Greg's concept was to have a friendlier price-point cornwalley/cornscala-ey offering than the lascala-ey vittoras. And bear in mind that this was before klipsch updated the CW to the CW IV where I think they finally responded to all the diyer's modding. The man quite simply can do woodworking and finishing, though...IMO. I also applaud anyone who will hatch some 100dB stuff and hang it out there. All any speaker ever is (or evaluations thereof) are statements of priorities, and there are reasons everything exists on the continuum. Humans be variable...
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Build a clone of original LaScala with various vintage units. EV and Jensen units are very cheap.
I was not very good at stating what I am after ... I did say clone. How about high efficiency without the Pro audio poorly implemented horn sound. The Hotans claim to do this. But a 15" to a horn?
I actually enjoyed the late 80s Klipsch Chorus IIs sound. Except the shouty sound when turned up, and lack of bass.
I actually enjoyed the late 80s Klipsch Chorus IIs sound. Except the shouty sound when turned up, and lack of bass.
I should have just asked for a 97 - 100 db efficient speaker that sounds great, and I can build, lol.
Sweet. Now we know how loud, just need:
1) how-low-how-clean?
2) with out w/o subs (and if subs, what kind--flanking or multi-subs or both)?
You need not answer but the choices separate a bit from those questions.
I say don't overlook wayne's kits at pi speakers.
1) how-low-how-clean?
2) with out w/o subs (and if subs, what kind--flanking or multi-subs or both)?
You need not answer but the choices separate a bit from those questions.
I say don't overlook wayne's kits at pi speakers.
Crites offers several systems with the same configuration as what is shown in post 4.
Fully built for < $2000, or you can buy the parts + build them yourself.
About Us | Critesspeakers.com
If you wanna fully DIY it, I'd suggest
a) getting a mini DSP + measuring mic.
b) start with the mid.
There are plenty of 2" throat horns you can get for about $50. Or build your own. Or buy a cheap pair and modify them.
Note that you don't need a compression driver for the mid.
2" compression drivers are crazy loud, like 110dB / watt, in the middle of their range.
...but you only need 97-100dB.
There are many (cheaper and more robust) cone drivers that will give 105dB for 2 or more octaves, when loaded on a similar horn. When you use a DSP to pad them back to 97dB, you'll get a little more bandwidth.
e.g. like Bruce Edgar used a 5" JBL mid.
This chap used a 6"
Volvotreter Homepage
I've seen a PRV 5" and various others used.
I sold my 2" (14kg!) compression drivers when I found a 4.5" driver that did the lower mids just as well.
Fully built for < $2000, or you can buy the parts + build them yourself.
About Us | Critesspeakers.com
If you wanna fully DIY it, I'd suggest
a) getting a mini DSP + measuring mic.
b) start with the mid.
There are plenty of 2" throat horns you can get for about $50. Or build your own. Or buy a cheap pair and modify them.
Note that you don't need a compression driver for the mid.
2" compression drivers are crazy loud, like 110dB / watt, in the middle of their range.
...but you only need 97-100dB.
There are many (cheaper and more robust) cone drivers that will give 105dB for 2 or more octaves, when loaded on a similar horn. When you use a DSP to pad them back to 97dB, you'll get a little more bandwidth.
e.g. like Bruce Edgar used a 5" JBL mid.
This chap used a 6"
Volvotreter Homepage
I've seen a PRV 5" and various others used.
I sold my 2" (14kg!) compression drivers when I found a 4.5" driver that did the lower mids just as well.
Easiest and cheapest is an Fane Sovereighn 12-250TC in a 150L sealed box. It gives bass (F6 of 45Hz) on low power (max 20w) and sounds quiet good for such a cheap/simple build. Sensivity is about 98dB/2.83v
Very expensive: a Great Plains Audio 604 driver in a Altec 620 cabinet or so. Not so hard to build if you can woodwork on decent level, but the driver and crossover (it's a coax) is very expensive and the cabinet quiet large (plans are online for free if you google). But it's one of the best speakers of the past (same driver in a different cabinet, the 612 was the standard studio monitor for decades), and still sounding very good (but not fully neutral). You could also do an own Altec "voice of the theater" build as most drivers are still made by Great Plains Audio (an Altec Lansing spinoff), but they are all very expensive. Most of those are arround 100dB sensivity at 2.83v
Or you can build something in the middle, but not that sensitive like the Calpamos, that is similar in looks, but a lot better sounding than those Volts (at least the one i heared). It's only 93dB/2.83v but sounds very good.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_Calpamos.pdf
Very expensive: a Great Plains Audio 604 driver in a Altec 620 cabinet or so. Not so hard to build if you can woodwork on decent level, but the driver and crossover (it's a coax) is very expensive and the cabinet quiet large (plans are online for free if you google). But it's one of the best speakers of the past (same driver in a different cabinet, the 612 was the standard studio monitor for decades), and still sounding very good (but not fully neutral). You could also do an own Altec "voice of the theater" build as most drivers are still made by Great Plains Audio (an Altec Lansing spinoff), but they are all very expensive. Most of those are arround 100dB sensivity at 2.83v
Or you can build something in the middle, but not that sensitive like the Calpamos, that is similar in looks, but a lot better sounding than those Volts (at least the one i heared). It's only 93dB/2.83v but sounds very good.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_Calpamos.pdf
Agreed on that Calpamos design. Tony Gee is a good designer that also has contributed to our local online community, I know that. Although one could argue about his craving for expensive caps, but competent for sure. And he includes his measurements in his design publications. Should give a clue.
You can easely replace those esotheric caps with cheaper filmcaps without changing the sound. Those expensive caps are not measurable better as was shown several times. I would probally also redo the crossover as I think he makes it way to complex
Flaxxer, you’re near where I live. If you want to, stop over to listen to a diy JBL two way. About 95 db/W efficiency and dare I say it, it sounds and measures pretty damn good. 2226 woofer mated to 2380/2445. Full FIR room correction.
The biggest difference between West Coast speaker brands (JBL, Altec) and East Coast ones is the material of the diaphragm, and they should be considered to be different animals, IMO. Klipsch, Volti, EV and Jensen utilizes soft phenolic diaphragms mostly, and they sound a little cloudier overall. That's the signature sound of East Coast speaker brands.
I have the Volti Klipschorn mods (new crossover and seemingly the same mid horn as the Rival). I run this with the Fostex T500 supertweet and miniDSP with Dirac - love it!
That is of course comments about horn-type designs.
In the other catagory, the west coast along with the japanese offerings are more bright and in your face than the east coast "laid back" east coast stuff like AR, KLH, Advent, Boston, Cambridge, etc.
But nothing compares to those "white van" speakers with the weighty internal cinderblocks and cheap alnico drivers.
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