That was probably like that out of the factory.
Being an amplifier from the 70s, I would follow the schematic and find out where the issue is.
Without a manual, you will need to know which adjustment does what or it may go bang!
Being an amplifier from the 70s, I would follow the schematic and find out where the issue is.
Without a manual, you will need to know which adjustment does what or it may go bang!
It might be corrosion damage - have you checked the continuity of the trace around the area where the solder's vanished? It looks like there are some areas of dull brown etched copper. It might be failure of wave-soldering during manufacturer as mentioned above, but I hope that would be rejected by quality control.
The actual fault is more likely to be something else I suspect, dry joint, capacitor or similar.
The actual fault is more likely to be something else I suspect, dry joint, capacitor or similar.
There's not much information on the Wharfedale Linton amplifier. YouTube
It will have been based on a Leak design e.g. Doz' Blog: Leak 2100 amplifier repairs.
It will have been based on a Leak design e.g. Doz' Blog: Leak 2100 amplifier repairs.
Some say that it is a Leak Delta 30 in disguise!
The earlier Stereo 30 Plus is electrically very similar. Schematic here: http://44bx.com/leak/Leak/Circuits/cctStereo30Plus.gif
The earlier Stereo 30 Plus is electrically very similar. Schematic here: http://44bx.com/leak/Leak/Circuits/cctStereo30Plus.gif
You might want to check for the differences in the Delta 30 against the all-plastic semis type Leak 2100 here: Leak 2100 - Manual - Stereo Integrated Amplifier - HiFi Engine
Unfortunately, the schematic is not easy to follow and was drawn by someone obviously having difficulty. The earlier style of the Delta 30 is a piece of cake by comparison.
Unfortunately, the schematic is not easy to follow and was drawn by someone obviously having difficulty. The earlier style of the Delta 30 is a piece of cake by comparison.
Thanks for the link Ian. Unfortunately I can't download the manual without registering on the site and the registration page is broken. Would you be able to attach a copy?
Thanks Galu, I have printed a copy and will now lock myself away with a magnifying glass and the circuit board.
Thanks Galu, I have printed a copy and will now lock myself away with a magnifying glass and the circuit board.
Thanks for the response Mark, I will do some continuity testing, currently waiting for an ESR meter to be delivered to check the capacitors.
@ Red Crab
I've discovered that, although the Linton amp (1971) was of Leak manufacture, the Linton Mk II amp (1972) was of Japanese manufacture.
That being the case, the circuit diagram for the Mk II will prove impossible to find. 🙁
I've discovered that, although the Linton amp (1971) was of Leak manufacture, the Linton Mk II amp (1972) was of Japanese manufacture.
That being the case, the circuit diagram for the Mk II will prove impossible to find. 🙁
Component identification
Ok so it's going to be trial and error then 🙂
Luckily I have two Linton MK2s, one to test dismantle which has no stereo channels at all, and the other which is fully working just distorted which is my first target to repair. The ultimate goal will be to have both working.
Can anyone identify this component from the mono only amp which has been worked on by someone before and been removed (images attached)?
Ok so it's going to be trial and error then 🙂
Luckily I have two Linton MK2s, one to test dismantle which has no stereo channels at all, and the other which is fully working just distorted which is my first target to repair. The ultimate goal will be to have both working.
Can anyone identify this component from the mono only amp which has been worked on by someone before and been removed (images attached)?
IF they have connecting copper on the reverse of the PCB then they represent a full wave rectifier in unusual block plastic shape .
If NOT then they have another use --notice the AC symbols on the second photo.
The first photo looks like capacitors but could be something else .
60,s/70,s capacitors were usually encased in rectangular block plastic ( non-electrolytic ) they came in a wide dyed range of colors.
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Duncan is correct in that the two double diodes may be connected together to form a bridge rectifier.
If so, they will also be connected to the secondary of the power transformer.
Details here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...-dual-diodes&usg=AOvVaw0x7n5lYKUEsO_KbjiObIT4
If so, they will also be connected to the secondary of the power transformer.
Details here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...-dual-diodes&usg=AOvVaw0x7n5lYKUEsO_KbjiObIT4
I can tell you when working properly it was a very good amplifier. In about 1971 it sold for £40 and the Leak £49 at discount prices. The Linton was nicer looking. By comparison the Teleton GA202 was £30 and although technically similar wasn't as refined. If I remember there was a Linton turntable. It might have been a BSR HT70 or a Garrard. Linton One speakers were slightly better if making a system. The Two seemed cheaper build. The sound is very like the valve Leak amplifiers. The transistor versions are very like the 1961 Tobey Dinsdale design.
Two diode half-bridge (with a different direction of the diodes). It can be replaced by separate diodes. If switched on by a bridge, replace by a diode bridge in the corresponding connection.
You'll find more reference material for comparisons at the links below, though in his writings Paul Kemble states that the Wharfedale Linton was a Delta 70 though how accurate a statement like that can be is uncertain with different controls fitted etc. As per Galu's remark, nothing referring specifically to Linton mk 2. It would be interesting to check part numbers of the semis, see if they are Japanese or Euro types (BC,BD etc.)
Leak Manuals
A Paul Kemble web page - Leak Stereo/Delta designs.
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