I own the previous mentioned amp...an alpine mrv 1000.
I searched it on the web..it says that it puts out at least 400 W RMS...
What amp should I be using ??? Can you give me some hints?
I am asking because I see that it puts out at arround 105 db...so I might get 400W speakers ..but if they run at arround 91 db I`ll just end up burning them.
Would you recomend a stereo set-up in the car??? low-med-high speakers + filter?
I would assume that the quality of the sound be be above average..no?
I would rather go on a stereo set-up if the clarity works out nice...because I own a VW Lupo ....nice small car...at stereo setup it would be loud enough just like that.
What do you sugest?
I am waiting for replys...to see whats best.
p.s.
I would put the low speakers in the doors. meds and higs in the back somewhere...ok with that?
I searched it on the web..it says that it puts out at least 400 W RMS...
What amp should I be using ??? Can you give me some hints?
I am asking because I see that it puts out at arround 105 db...so I might get 400W speakers ..but if they run at arround 91 db I`ll just end up burning them.
Would you recomend a stereo set-up in the car??? low-med-high speakers + filter?
I would assume that the quality of the sound be be above average..no?
I would rather go on a stereo set-up if the clarity works out nice...because I own a VW Lupo ....nice small car...at stereo setup it would be loud enough just like that.
What do you sugest?
I am waiting for replys...to see whats best.
p.s.
I would put the low speakers in the doors. meds and higs in the back somewhere...ok with that?
keep on searching..found a lot of powerfull subs...the only problem is that I am not able to find something that has at least 105 db.
the only things close are the subs used in bar/disco`s ...but they aren`t made for that kind of music ...
the only things close are the subs used in bar/disco`s ...but they aren`t made for that kind of music ...
well...I`m looking for a subwoofer (box+speaker) or just speaker to hook up to the amp.
the problem is I can`t find something that goes over 100 db.
I don`t have a huge buget, therfore I can`t look for something new..
and with little knowledge of speakers in this area...I don`t know what to look for on the web.
All I have seen are under or arround 91 db. wich is a loooot under 105.
the problem is I can`t find something that goes over 100 db.
I don`t have a huge buget, therfore I can`t look for something new..
and with little knowledge of speakers in this area...I don`t know what to look for on the web.
All I have seen are under or arround 91 db. wich is a loooot under 105.
Are you looking at the S/N ratio on the amp as 105dB?
That has nothing to do with the output of the woofer.
The efficiency of the woofer isn't a good measure of the low frequency response of the speaker. Many woofers that are very efficient can produce relatively low output in the sub-bass range.
That has nothing to do with the output of the woofer.
The efficiency of the woofer isn't a good measure of the low frequency response of the speaker. Many woofers that are very efficient can produce relatively low output in the sub-bass range.
as I knew it....if the amplifier puts out (as in this case) 105 db....if the speaker can`t handle this kind of output db it will blow out .
thats how I allways knew it. if the amplifier puts out 105 db the speaker must be at least equal to it..if not close.
correct me if I`m wrong.
thats how I allways knew it. if the amplifier puts out 105 db the speaker must be at least equal to it..if not close.
correct me if I`m wrong.
Alpine V12 MRV 1000 .
I found the specs on line..but the "pdf" was given to me here on this forum.
You have attached me a picutre with something that looks like the page out of a user manual.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/244710-help-alpine-v12-mrv1000-amp.html
I found the specs on line..but the "pdf" was given to me here on this forum.
You have attached me a picutre with something that looks like the page out of a user manual.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/244710-help-alpine-v12-mrv1000-amp.html
Rare ALPINE MRV-1000 amp - Focus Fanatics
and other google / forums like this. power output was a bit different from site to site..but the 105 db was ...basicly the same
and other google / forums like this. power output was a bit different from site to site..but the 105 db was ...basicly the same
So you´re talking about Signal to Noise Ratio Signal-to-noise ratio - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia that has nothing to do with subs efficiency or choosing the woofer.
What do you wan´t/expect from the system? SQ? SPL? Little both? Any limitations? What car?
What do you wan´t/expect from the system? SQ? SPL? Little both? Any limitations? What car?
That spec tells you that if you compare the noise generated by the amplifier circuit to the full power output signal level that the noise will be 105dB (A-weighted) below the full power output level.
Set master volume on the head unit then set your amplifier gains and you shouldn't have a problem. Part of there job is to avoid overloading speakers.
Those Alpines are nice Japanese made classics. I used to have one in the late 90s powering Bazooka tubes and kicker D 20 6x9s. They ran loud and extremely clean.
The car is a little car...a VW Lupo. I would expect CLARITY and QUALITY.
I`m not looking for a loud bass that is low quality.
If the sub falls out of question...I am looking forward to a stereo setup in the doors.
1 or 2 low speakers in the doors (4 ohm or 4-4 = 2 ohmi), with middle and high speakers. Filters will be installed.
I don`t know what budged I should use...thats why I`m asking you for opinions on speakers. I haven`t done a car audio project before.
I don`t know what NEW speakers to buy because there are a lot and I do not have a clue on wich to see first.
I would be expecting as I sayed... from a 1.0 sistem (subwoofer) a good clear and high quality base.
If stereo setup is on ...I am would like to get the sound that you would get out of a HIGH END or MID-End quality speakers.
If you have more questions or didin`t understand something please specify.
Hmmm...I might be missing something but I don`t understand what you are saying.
Yes..but that "power", that db does not affect the speaker? If the power output of the amplifier releases the sound at 105 db, shouldn`t the speaker be capable of puting out or support the db power output?
Correct me if I~m wrong again Perry. I am a noob after all. I am in the car audio sector at the very begining.
thats why am I trying to put the sistem toghether...I know the amp has potential.
I will be trying to do the best I can
Those lows on doors have never worked so well..I´d rather go with good quality 2 -way set drived active (no passive xovers) so you would need a 4 -channel fron end amplifier with good crossovers (I don´t know what they do sell in your country, and do not know your budget but I´ll try to figure out something between).
Front amplifier: DLS CA41 (~250$) http://dls.se/files/894/2/Man_Perf_amps_2011_eng.pdf
Front 2 -way serie: DLS nordica 6.2 (~500$) http://dls.se/files/759/2/Man_Nordica_62_eng.pdf
Subwoofer: 2pcs JL Audio 8W3V3-4 in stereo (~250$/piece) http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/8W3v3_MAN.pdf?1305783844
Just remember that with poor assembly you destroy any sound quality available.
There are thousands of options, but this is an example. With good assembly you will possibly not be dissapointed 🙂
Front amplifier: DLS CA41 (~250$) http://dls.se/files/894/2/Man_Perf_amps_2011_eng.pdf
Front 2 -way serie: DLS nordica 6.2 (~500$) http://dls.se/files/759/2/Man_Nordica_62_eng.pdf
Subwoofer: 2pcs JL Audio 8W3V3-4 in stereo (~250$/piece) http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/8W3v3_MAN.pdf?1305783844
Just remember that with poor assembly you destroy any sound quality available.
There are thousands of options, but this is an example. With good assembly you will possibly not be dissapointed 🙂
The dB rating of the speaker is a measure of what the speaker can produce with a reference input (1 watt, 1.4v or 2.8v are common references). This tells you how efficient the speakers are but doesn't tell you much more. For woofers, it's not very useful because many higher efficiency woofers are actually less capable of producing deep bass.
The signal to noise ratio has nothing to do with the efficiency of the speaker. It's a measure of how noisy the amplifier circuit is.
When choosing speakers, it's better to match the power rating of the amp (true power, not the inflated numbers often given) to the true power handling of the woofers (again, not the inflated numbers). Even this isn't foolproof because an abusive person can destroy woofers, even if the amp power rating matches the speaker power rating.
You'll learn that there are few things that are absolutely definitive when working with speakers and audio.
The signal to noise ratio has nothing to do with the efficiency of the speaker. It's a measure of how noisy the amplifier circuit is.
When choosing speakers, it's better to match the power rating of the amp (true power, not the inflated numbers often given) to the true power handling of the woofers (again, not the inflated numbers). Even this isn't foolproof because an abusive person can destroy woofers, even if the amp power rating matches the speaker power rating.
You'll learn that there are few things that are absolutely definitive when working with speakers and audio.
Hmmm..I am sorry to tell you this but I will be using my Alpine amplifier.
I do not want to change this.
I will give you credit for what you said about the setup. I will be trying to find 4 full range speakers and leave the meds/highs out of the problem.
Now the problem is fiding the speakers.
I will dissapoint you again, but the budget isn`t that big. I will have 400 $. Thats why I`m looking to buy ONLY the speakers. Chaging the amp wouldn`t cover the budget.
Hope to find something good to mount in the car.
p.s.
if it doesn`t work out, I~ll try and hold up some time ti`ll I get the whole budget in order
I didn´t recommend you to change that Alpine..it would drive the subs 🙂
If you want a working front end, you need midbass and tweeter/fullrange AND an amplifier to drive them. That´s why I did post that DLS 4 -channel.
If you´d like to go with full ranges and midbass..I´d still recommed that DLS CA41 (for example) and perhaps Tangband fullrange Tangband W3-871 http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w3-871sc.htm
and for mid basses DLS RM6 RM6 - mid bass drivers
Tangband ~30-40$/piece and DLC RM6 ~250$/pair
If you want a working front end, you need midbass and tweeter/fullrange AND an amplifier to drive them. That´s why I did post that DLS 4 -channel.
If you´d like to go with full ranges and midbass..I´d still recommed that DLS CA41 (for example) and perhaps Tangband fullrange Tangband W3-871 http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w3-871sc.htm
and for mid basses DLS RM6 RM6 - mid bass drivers
Tangband ~30-40$/piece and DLC RM6 ~250$/pair
ok..got that. now I see your point.
I`m likeing the speakers in the first link
the second seems it does not work.
p.s.
I see that the speakers input is arround 25 W...a bit low ??? or ??? I`m just asking.
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