I think what dischoe meant was 'high ply count' meaning multi-ply. Multi-ply is a term used to describe plywood that has more laminations per thickness.
6. Tool life can be calculated quite accurately as the material is homogenous, unlike ply and especially chipboard.
7. Edges can be sealed and stained to look like the veneer that is often used on the face. Look at most cheap veneered tables.
In the '70s I actually made identical speakers out of mdf (Medite) and 700 kg/m flooring chipboard. The chipboard pair sounded better.
Thank you
So plywood seems like the recommended option, from all the tips I got here.
Amazing.
So MDF is mainly used because of comfort in production, and not the sound quality of the result...
It's good that I asked this.
(the answer I had was pretty much obvious for me, yet apparently wrong)
BTW,
Another thing regarding the wood:
If I want the some of the edges of the plate to be round instead of sharp 90°,
what is the best way to achieve it?
I mean something like this:
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This is how I do it. You can buy cheap routers that will do the job, but obviously a better one would be more expensive. I have 3. 🙂
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If you're looking for a full radius as in the sketch, a bearing tipped bit would need to be used in a router table with fence, or with an extra layer of material securely clamped below on which the bearing could ride. - or after the cabinets are assembled.
The question of sonic merits of different types of manufactured sheet goods - or materials in general often devolves into rancorous debate - can we avoid that - at least once in a while? 😀
By "high cound (sic)" plywoods, I think dishoe is referring to what would be generically called "Baltic Birch", which depending on grade of final exposed face veneers, may have as many as 11 plies for nominal 1/2" ( 12mm) , 13 plies for 5/8" (15mm) or 15 for 3/4" (18mm)
The question of sonic merits of different types of manufactured sheet goods - or materials in general often devolves into rancorous debate - can we avoid that - at least once in a while? 😀
By "high cound (sic)" plywoods, I think dishoe is referring to what would be generically called "Baltic Birch", which depending on grade of final exposed face veneers, may have as many as 11 plies for nominal 1/2" ( 12mm) , 13 plies for 5/8" (15mm) or 15 for 3/4" (18mm)
Cal Weldon is right on.
Each laminated layer = 1 ply. I have plywood that contains 9, the other 13-14 plies per 3/4" - 18mm thickness.
"furniture grade". Measure 3 times with that it can get pricey.
Ultimate Guide to Baltic Birch Plywood: Why It’s Better, When to Use It – Woodworkers Source Blog
Each laminated layer = 1 ply. I have plywood that contains 9, the other 13-14 plies per 3/4" - 18mm thickness.
"furniture grade". Measure 3 times with that it can get pricey.
Ultimate Guide to Baltic Birch Plywood: Why It’s Better, When to Use It – Woodworkers Source Blog
I vote for real wood for the size of the small box. Other then that I buy really good birch or red oak ply. I haven't used
( mdf) in years or ( hdfb ) high density fiber board ). Also the dust from ( mdf ) is terrible. I hear some diyers use pine but to me it's to much to soft. Well good luck. Jeff
( mdf) in years or ( hdfb ) high density fiber board ). Also the dust from ( mdf ) is terrible. I hear some diyers use pine but to me it's to much to soft. Well good luck. Jeff
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I think "Baltic birch" is used to distinguish between cheap (B&Q) Chinese birch ply and European. But when I used the stuff regularly in the '80s, making skateboards and speakers, Finnish birch was dense, tight and oily - harder to glue - but stronger than Russian birch, which was lighter, fluffier, but prettier for decorative use. So I am not sure if "Baltic" now covers all ply from the region, but there are differences.
I have used 7 ply 9mm birch wood with this driver which is ideal for me.
Something cheaper would work, too.
Even cardboard enclosures are possible.
You can use thick cardboard for a prototype.
Something cheaper would work, too.
Even cardboard enclosures are possible.
You can use thick cardboard for a prototype.
Cal, yes of course, but since when has this hobby been about practicality, logic, or even fact?
Do we count the cost of the tools and blades/bits it'd take to cut the material, and route profiles on the edges?
Actually, for a small box such as likely to be the case for the TC9, a single pine board shelf from lumber store could be a good bet.
abd - yes, "Baltic" is one of those generics that don't tell the whole story - as is, for that matter, also the case with "MDF" - they are definitely not all the same
Do we count the cost of the tools and blades/bits it'd take to cut the material, and route profiles on the edges?
Actually, for a small box such as likely to be the case for the TC9, a single pine board shelf from lumber store could be a good bet.
abd - yes, "Baltic" is one of those generics that don't tell the whole story - as is, for that matter, also the case with "MDF" - they are definitely not all the same
I have done speakers with this laminated pine, its sturdy and some of it looks pretty good after its finished, and resists warping a little better than solids. Pine panel | RONA
I think he should find a selection of Bamboo cutting boards, trim to size and be done with it. C'mon guys, seriously.
So true Chris. I know when I need sound, fatherly advice, I can always count on you.
BTW Dad, did you noticed that he is considering using the TC9 driver? The cabinet material is as close to immaterial as it gets. Therefore I am going to change my mind and suggest MDF. No not really, just get any old 1/2" ply from your local lumber yard for goodness sakes. The finish is by far the most important part of this project.
Thank you all.
BTW, how do you get/calculate the optimal dimensions of the box, for a certain driver type?
What parameters affect it?
(does the listener's preferred frequency range also affect the box dimensions?)
BTW, how do you get/calculate the optimal dimensions of the box, for a certain driver type?
What parameters affect it?
(does the listener's preferred frequency range also affect the box dimensions?)
spaceman5; a bit of a long learning curve there, and they all matter to some degree or other. For this particular driver I think you could save time and directly consult xrk71 for a plethora of options of enclosure designs and material choices.
Cal; I luv ya buddy, but there are only two adult males entitled to use that epithet - Brian, son of Susan, and Dr Reid Robinson of Bermuda, husband of Jennifer.
Certainly for those not comfortable with, or having access to foam board, either the bamboo cutting boards or a single piece of pine shelving would be practical affordable options - I just happen to have a substantial stockpile of small offcuts of good plywood to work with, hence my default reply.
Cal; I luv ya buddy, but there are only two adult males entitled to use that epithet - Brian, son of Susan, and Dr Reid Robinson of Bermuda, husband of Jennifer.
Certainly for those not comfortable with, or having access to foam board, either the bamboo cutting boards or a single piece of pine shelving would be practical affordable options - I just happen to have a substantial stockpile of small offcuts of good plywood to work with, hence my default reply.
Been away, 2 tons for a 4' x 8' sheet (4608 sq.") ain't much pressure. On a 4" x 6" piece that would be 8-10 textbooks. Balsa will need about 1/4 the pressure of birch. So 3 textbooks should do.
I built a lamination press to make curved back floor monitors. Used three air bladders as I recall. About 600 pounds per bladder or about 1 pound per square inch. The glue was the important trick.
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