Where do you get standoffs?

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#26
SoaDMTGguy said:
This is what I bought: 971100324 Wurth Elektronik | Mouser

You can see in the picture and the datasheet that there is a small gap at the top of the threads. I didn’t look closely enough, because I didn’t know that was a possibility.

There have been some good suggestions in this thread. I guess I have to inspect any given product to make sure the threads go all the way up.

While I’m asking for things, does anyone know where I can get unplated brass, or gold plated? I prefer the yellow color. Not a huge deal.
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I've used those standoffs too.
Nothing wrong with the fact that the threads stop just before the end of them, since a PC board or chassis thickness takes that up anyway.
 
#27
SoaDMTGguy said:
eBay or Ali? I’m always suspicious of the quality of that Ali stuff
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In my experience, the standoffs on eBay and Ali are the same. Ali is less money usually. Both take about the same time to ship but Ali gives you more options.

Out of thousands of standoffs and screws/bolts, I've had like 5 duds.

I use an impact driver to install them, too.

Frankly, it's hard to screw up a piece of brass.
 
#28
SoaDMTGguy said:
eBay or Ali? I’m always suspicious of the quality of that Ali stuff
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SoaDMTGguy:

Don't be. I've purchased a variety of brass, aluminum and nylon standoffs from several vendors on AliExpress and in each instance have had an excellent experience. Yes, shipping takes longer, but you won't find better quality or pricing. Imperial sizes are problematic, but you won't have any problem finding M2, M2.5, M3 or M4 M-F or M-M standoffs.

Regards,
Scott
 
#30
SoaDMTGguy said:
This is what I bought: ...... You can see in the picture and the datasheet that there is a small gap at the top of the threads. I didn’t look closely enough, because I didn’t know that was a possibility.
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You are complaining of a non problem 🙂

The proper way to make them is:

2314079.jpg


because then the pillar base is defined, flat, and can meet chassis surface even with hand pressure.

While the cheesy no clue shape:

F8066720-01.webp


has a non-defined area at the thread-pillar joint, which is NOT a thread, at best half thread-half uncut material, because automatic lathe has to pull cutting tool away *or* cut a "trench" into hex brass bar which is being turned, pick one.

Proper mechanical solution is to stop advancing cutting tool tip at the very last moment, and letting it cut a flat surface area on the hex bar which is excellent to sit flat against chassis surface.

That it will also cut a cylindrical area, diameter same as thread smaller diameter is a byproduct.

Thread angle by definition is an angle, not flat or perpendicular to rotation axis, so you need to create a flat mating surface on purpose.

just use washers on them to fill the gap
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No need to, the gap gets buried inside chassis wall.

The washers I have aren’t thick enough, so I’d have to double up. Or get new washers.
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😕

Then you are using a way too thin chassis, notice the "gap" that worries you is much shorter than the threaded length ... are your spacer threads over exiting the other side?
I´d guess so.

Or , "to put some numbers into it" ....
* what´s your chassis thickness?
* how long is spacer threaded tip?
* how long is the thread gap?
* how thick are your washers?

Just curious: are you drilling and tapping chassis holes yourself?
Threading to a shoulder is very awkward, it wants to break the cutter.
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That.

Or as I mentioned before, tool tip has to cut a "trench" .... it has to fit "somewhere".

If you just pull it with no further ado, the about half cut material remaining will NOT let you sit flush against chassis, so some material HAS to give, either chassis or pillar, whichever is weaker.
 
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#31
Not in my experience. A standard Hammond chassis is .050 or .040" depending on the size. That gap is about .045. It will tighten to the chassis but you can strip it with your fingers. This is why I suggested washers. I needed to use 2 washers on each when I was going to use this style.
 
#35
OK, i guess I don't understand why you would try to thread the male end of the standoff through or into the chassis. Normally, you would put the female portion of the standoff against the chassis, and secure it with a button head hex bolt. The threaded male portion would go through the PCB and be secured with a washer and nut. I also use nylon washers at all interfaces. If for some reason you do not want the male threaded end at the PCB (looks, clearance, etc.), then you would use a double ended female standoff. A little dab of clear nail polish keeps everything locked into place, but can be disassembled for repairs/updates.

I get all of my standoffs, washers, and button head bolts in the kits at Amazon, They have always worked well.

Dan
 
#38
McMaster-Carr

This part is $2.29/each if I buy at least 10, right? Mouser and Digi-key are in the $0.60 to $1.25 range.

I’ve ordered from McMaster Carr before. I agree, they are great. But this particular part seems significantly more expensive than the alternatives, for reasons I don’t understand.

I’d be happy to pay more if I knew why, knew what I was getting for the money.
 
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