Despite my intuitive preference for the European style terminals, wirenuts are used by the millions in the US, and are generally trouble free. Correctly used, they meet UL and CSA standards for connections. They create high clamping pressures, with good surface contact area. Like everything else, proper technique is absolutely necessary for good (and safe) results. The wirenut must be the correct size for the application, and the wires need to be stripped to specifications. They must be properly tightened, which may involve the use of pliers, depending upon hand strength, and accessibility.
Properly used, electrical tape shouldn’t be necessary, keeping in mind that the National Electrical Code specifies the maximum number of connections in a box of a given size.
My favorite type, which seems to be no longer available, featured a ring with a large set screw to clamp the wires, with a plastic insulator cap that screwed over the ring.
Short of that, the “Ideal” brand “Twister” series makes the job much easier.
Of course we all know that soldering creates the absolute “best” possible connection, but nobody does that with “mains” wiring.
Properly used, electrical tape shouldn’t be necessary, keeping in mind that the National Electrical Code specifies the maximum number of connections in a box of a given size.
My favorite type, which seems to be no longer available, featured a ring with a large set screw to clamp the wires, with a plastic insulator cap that screwed over the ring.
Short of that, the “Ideal” brand “Twister” series makes the job much easier.
Of course we all know that soldering creates the absolute “best” possible connection, but nobody does that with “mains” wiring.
Agreed, the only way to use wire nuts IMO. Tape being optional. The real purpose of the wire nut should be to protect the connection, not to make it tight. By pre twisting the wires tight with a pliers, you don't require the nut to do anything except insulate the package. I see very few electricians practice this, unfortunately. Most of the time it's "shove it in and twist twice". I have found a number of connections that were either intermittent or showed some signs of prior arcing inside due to poor installation. But to be fair, never an outright failure or fire.
The real heartburn I get with wire nuts is having to terminate light fixtures with stranded wire. Stranded and solid conductor do not mate well. I have had some success trapping the stranded in between two solids, and using the solids to twist tight, but at the end of the day stranded wire just doesn't work well in mechanical connections like this. Lugs and screws, fine, but not twisting.
In my house we have a fuse box with separate trip witches for light, wall sockets and kitchen appliances like cooker, fridge and washing machine.
Every wall socket has an individual switch (which I never use) and every plug contains an appropriate fuse.
What I like most about UK plugs is that they are at a right angle to the cable so lazy people can't just tug on the lead to pull the plug.
It's true that my distaste for wire nuts is somewhat irrational, given their long history of adequate performance. (See? I couldn't even bring myself to say "good") But I still hate them. 😛
This being an audio forum, the meaning of the term 'wire nuts' could be easily misconstrued.
Seriously though i did try some many years ago, i was not impressed, terminal blocks are cheap and reliable.
Seriously though i did try some many years ago, i was not impressed, terminal blocks are cheap and reliable.
I do differ with a previous post which stated the idea that the wire nut was for insulation. In my first reply to this thread, I mentioned "gas-tight." I'm not certain that applies, but was drawing from my understanding of how the thing works. The inner helix (<-credit Cal for that one) of copper is the threads that gouge the conductors being connected. Making, I assume, a gas-tight electrical connection.
I've also seen what the link question brings up. I probably hadn't reach a point where I would hyperbolize in the same manner as the OP of that link, but I was glad I found it. It helps explain some things. And from a safety standpoint, to me it points out the need to know just what is being worked with, and approached appropriately.
I have probably a lifetime supply of wire nuts. Working electronics much more than electrical I don't use them alot. I don't have any issues with them.
But, now, why wrap the tape in the same direction as the twist? I would think it would be opposite, so when the tape 'relaxes' it pulls in the direction of the twist.
I've also seen what the link question brings up. I probably hadn't reach a point where I would hyperbolize in the same manner as the OP of that link, but I was glad I found it. It helps explain some things. And from a safety standpoint, to me it points out the need to know just what is being worked with, and approached appropriately.
I have probably a lifetime supply of wire nuts. Working electronics much more than electrical I don't use them alot. I don't have any issues with them.
But, now, why wrap the tape in the same direction as the twist? I would think it would be opposite, so when the tape 'relaxes' it pulls in the direction of the twist.
This is probably true but I think less important than the twist of the wires inside the nut. Yes, someone once actually said it should be a left hand twist versus the nut's right hand. I didn't have have a nut with me to demonstrate the ills of his ways so I just punched him instead.
😀..actions speak louder than words. (Here hold this smack..😀) soory I can't hear you what did you say...mumble wire mumble nut .cough spit.🙂
I'm sorry something about nuts was it? 😀..no don't remember any squirrels around here...
Regards
M. Gregg
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Time passes and 15 minutes later in an attempt to clarify the situation..
Cal you know this tape for wire nuts ....SMACK...😀
Regards
M. Gregg
Cal you know this tape for wire nuts ....SMACK...😀
Regards
M. Gregg
I believe left handed thread wire nuts are only sold in the southern hemisphere. AC Current flows in the opposite direction there, anyway.😛
Please confirm HOW to prepare the wire ends and assemble the "Screwit"?
I have seen a few "Screwits" in old installations.
I have never used any and I have never SEEN an Electrician using any.
I have seen a few "Screwits" in old installations.
I have never used any and I have never SEEN an Electrician using any.
Remove about 8 to 10 cm of the insulation of each wire.
Hold the wires in your left hand. Line up the ends of the insulation of each wire.
Cross and separate the wires into two, then twist the wires using your forefinger and thumb keeping the ends separate.
Cut off the end with pliers.
Screw on the nut.
This works fine until you want to add an extra wire.
Hold the wires in your left hand. Line up the ends of the insulation of each wire.
Cross and separate the wires into two, then twist the wires using your forefinger and thumb keeping the ends separate.
Cut off the end with pliers.
Screw on the nut.
This works fine until you want to add an extra wire.
10mm not cm! 🙂
twist the wires clockwise i.e. same direction as the nut rotation.
As a test, remove the nut and observe that the wires are compressed to form gas tight connections.
I have bought these in the UK and used them successfully in very shallow metal patresses. they can tuck into a corner.
May I make a plea against using pvc electrical tape for anything. It is quite disgusting stuff and does not survive many years, coming undone and leaving a sticky mess over everything!
twist the wires clockwise i.e. same direction as the nut rotation.
As a test, remove the nut and observe that the wires are compressed to form gas tight connections.
I have bought these in the UK and used them successfully in very shallow metal patresses. they can tuck into a corner.
May I make a plea against using pvc electrical tape for anything. It is quite disgusting stuff and does not survive many years, coming undone and leaving a sticky mess over everything!
I second that, it's rubbish stuff, especially when out doors in the rain. For sealing up ariel connectors etc i always use self amalgamating tape, it's more expensive but many times better.
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/porta...mating-tape/?gclid=CISin5Csh8QCFUPJtAodgDoAjQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzTaMTjXzPU
For those who did not understand my description. The person in the video is using pliers to twist the wires but you can do it by hand.
For those who did not understand my description. The person in the video is using pliers to twist the wires but you can do it by hand.
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From what i remember, hockey tape has a sticky adhesive glue. Self amalgamating tape bonds to itself without glue which makes it permanent, you have to cut it off if you need to remove it.
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