One of the connectors that connect the panel to the electronics of my Martin Logan Prodigy has failed. This is a known issue at ML but they no longer have the connector available.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can remove that resin-like substance that the wires are embedded in? I would like to remove that to access the bare wires/connectors to fix the bad connection.
Or better yet, if anyone knows where I can get a new one that would be amazing. The connector is called Pulse-lok from Alden. Unfortunately ML says it is no longer available.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can remove that resin-like substance that the wires are embedded in? I would like to remove that to access the bare wires/connectors to fix the bad connection.
Or better yet, if anyone knows where I can get a new one that would be amazing. The connector is called Pulse-lok from Alden. Unfortunately ML says it is no longer available.
Seems like Pulse-Lok connectors are still available - https://www.amphenolalden.com/products-solutions/pulse-lok-medical-connectors.
Difficult to tell from the photos which version of Pulse-Lok is being used. Is there a part number on the connector ?
Difficult to tell from the photos which version of Pulse-Lok is being used. Is there a part number on the connector ?
If it is hot melt glue, try an edge with a soldering iron. Should melt, with a little smoke sometimes.
And, if you have epoxy or car paint thinner, use a match head size piece of cotton on a tweezers, soak in fluid, touch the mass, might dissolve it.
I personally would use a commonly available connector, those in the automotive field are plentiful and economical, compared to exotics.
And please post a photo of the business end of the thing, next to a measuring tape or steel rule, so we have some idea of the size.
It may be that a nearly correct substitute is easily available...
And, if you have epoxy or car paint thinner, use a match head size piece of cotton on a tweezers, soak in fluid, touch the mass, might dissolve it.
I personally would use a commonly available connector, those in the automotive field are plentiful and economical, compared to exotics.
And please post a photo of the business end of the thing, next to a measuring tape or steel rule, so we have some idea of the size.
It may be that a nearly correct substitute is easily available...
Of course, use a heated soldering iron, a cigarette lighter or match stick is also quite suitable.
Then you can soften it, and cut it with a sharp blade, like those in the break off type utility knives, quite easy, safe for the insulation as well.
It looks like old hot melt or potting compound, the latter is usually epoxy with talcum powder in it for reduced cost and extra rigidity.
Then you can soften it, and cut it with a sharp blade, like those in the break off type utility knives, quite easy, safe for the insulation as well.
It looks like old hot melt or potting compound, the latter is usually epoxy with talcum powder in it for reduced cost and extra rigidity.
Agreed, solvents for epoxy will destroy the wire as well.
They are usually very strongly acidic or alkali compounds, of a strength that will burn skin on contact, you have to be highly trained in order to use them, and those usually dissolve metal.
Best is to cut the wires, put new connectors, of a currently available type.
Red plastic looks faded and degraded to me, might be brittle with age and heat.
So the repair effort may not give durable results.
They are usually very strongly acidic or alkali compounds, of a strength that will burn skin on contact, you have to be highly trained in order to use them, and those usually dissolve metal.
Best is to cut the wires, put new connectors, of a currently available type.
Red plastic looks faded and degraded to me, might be brittle with age and heat.
So the repair effort may not give durable results.
Thats a high voltage connection. It needs to handle 5KV or more. Thats why its potted. It may be potted with Silicone. There are other high voltage connectors that you could use. I doubt you will find a direct mate from a different vendor so you would need to change both ends. There are high voltage connectors but nothing that resembles yours. Many of their connectors are custom and one-off which is probably why Martin-Logan says they aren't available.
You may find something useful here: https://surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-2.html
"Are Amphenol Alden high voltage cable assemblies available in distribution?
No, Amphenol Alden high voltage products are not readily available in distribution. All requests are built to order. Be sure to build yours today!"You may find something useful here: https://surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-2.html
1audio:
Are you sure about the 5 kV?
Magnepan run their electrostatic speakers at about 350V, the 5 kV would need thicker insulation on the wires, they do not look 6.6 kV class to me, and the dielectric strength of the insulation, and air has to be considered.
I may be wrong, please enlighten me.
Are you sure about the 5 kV?
Magnepan run their electrostatic speakers at about 350V, the 5 kV would need thicker insulation on the wires, they do not look 6.6 kV class to me, and the dielectric strength of the insulation, and air has to be considered.
I may be wrong, please enlighten me.
Magnepans are not electrostatic. They are planar magnetic. https://magnepan.com/pages/about-us For reference the Quad ESL uses 5500V for the bias and peaks of 3-4KV for the audio. Similar for most of the other large electrostatic. Dayton Wright used 20KV.
Its different if the connection is at speaker level but from the description its at panel level.However the connector doesn't look adequate to 5KV or even 2KV. Maybe the panel is just a tweeter.
Its different if the connection is at speaker level but from the description its at panel level.However the connector doesn't look adequate to 5KV or even 2KV. Maybe the panel is just a tweeter.