I had an aluminum bike frame that rejected every paint I tried. it would bubble and pool and just not bond. Some ink reacts poorly with aluminum too, always test a sample area. And dont skip prep, make sure to clean the surface with some denatured alcohol first.
There is a light oily film left on metals to combat oxidation in storage and transportation. Not so much with aluminum but if it gets shipped and handled it sometimes gets contaminated. Wipe everything down with the alcohol before paint or primers.
Try a quality alcohol ink for stenciling and silk screen. It will bond to any type of clean metal (including aluminum).
There is a light oily film left on metals to combat oxidation in storage and transportation. Not so much with aluminum but if it gets shipped and handled it sometimes gets contaminated. Wipe everything down with the alcohol before paint or primers.
Try a quality alcohol ink for stenciling and silk screen. It will bond to any type of clean metal (including aluminum).
^ hmm.
It's a bit offtopic as the op speced painted aluminium.
Anyway if you want to paint aluminium bike frame you need to do it 'professional way': a 2 or 3 component approach ( like for cars. But you can use spraycan, there is now very good products availlable):
You first need to clean previous paint works ( sanding, media blasting*, chemical...) including primer. From there sand it with 400grain**
Once done you have short timeframe *** to aply first a dedicated to aluminium primer ( first component). Best if 2parts epoxy ( it protect alu from corroding).
Let dry then 400grain sanding.
Now time to paint using your prefered paint ( i use regular Montana Gold brand spraycan).
Once cured then varnish ( here again two part epoxy is a must). Multiple layers will give a 'deeper' rendering ( use 'wet on wet' technique for varnish).
It's time consuming, a bit costly and require a bit of practice as if you fail at any stage you are good to do it again... but it gives the best results you could expect: it's the way it's done professionaly for custom artworks.
It garantee you won't have bad reactions between layers ( the bubbling you talked about), your frame wont corrode and if correctly handled will stay as is for a long time...
I use primer and varnish from this brand ( 2k range):
https://www.spraymax.com/
For paint this one:
https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/gold-400ml-artist-paint/
If you don't want the hassle of a pro approach try 'spraybike' products. Works great for 'ghetto style' artwork in my experience ( done some bmx and child bike with it). But if you keep the previous paint layer ( don't clean the frame) it might end up with bubbles and all...
Their primers are ok, varnish not bad too. Application is different than pro stuff ( you need to be way closer, paint is almost dry when it touch frame even with small (~12cm) distance! Fairly different from Montana's can and their caps ( they define the spray width, amount of paint,...)
https://fr.spray.bike/
*: for media blasting no sand! It'll destroy aluminium. You need something like concussed cherry core ( sorry i don't know translation in english), softer material than AL
**: it depends of the kind of primer/paint you use: too fine (800) and it won't hold/grip. Too coarse and finish will suffer... it is usually speced by brand which grain you need.
***: with AL there is a skin which appear as soon as it's been sanded ( oxygen react with upper AL layer and does a natural anodising). Something like waiting a day is ok, one week and you'll have to sand it again...
It's a bit offtopic as the op speced painted aluminium.
Anyway if you want to paint aluminium bike frame you need to do it 'professional way': a 2 or 3 component approach ( like for cars. But you can use spraycan, there is now very good products availlable):
You first need to clean previous paint works ( sanding, media blasting*, chemical...) including primer. From there sand it with 400grain**
Once done you have short timeframe *** to aply first a dedicated to aluminium primer ( first component). Best if 2parts epoxy ( it protect alu from corroding).
Let dry then 400grain sanding.
Now time to paint using your prefered paint ( i use regular Montana Gold brand spraycan).
Once cured then varnish ( here again two part epoxy is a must). Multiple layers will give a 'deeper' rendering ( use 'wet on wet' technique for varnish).
It's time consuming, a bit costly and require a bit of practice as if you fail at any stage you are good to do it again... but it gives the best results you could expect: it's the way it's done professionaly for custom artworks.
It garantee you won't have bad reactions between layers ( the bubbling you talked about), your frame wont corrode and if correctly handled will stay as is for a long time...
I use primer and varnish from this brand ( 2k range):
https://www.spraymax.com/
For paint this one:
https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/gold-400ml-artist-paint/
If you don't want the hassle of a pro approach try 'spraybike' products. Works great for 'ghetto style' artwork in my experience ( done some bmx and child bike with it). But if you keep the previous paint layer ( don't clean the frame) it might end up with bubbles and all...
Their primers are ok, varnish not bad too. Application is different than pro stuff ( you need to be way closer, paint is almost dry when it touch frame even with small (~12cm) distance! Fairly different from Montana's can and their caps ( they define the spray width, amount of paint,...)
https://fr.spray.bike/
*: for media blasting no sand! It'll destroy aluminium. You need something like concussed cherry core ( sorry i don't know translation in english), softer material than AL
**: it depends of the kind of primer/paint you use: too fine (800) and it won't hold/grip. Too coarse and finish will suffer... it is usually speced by brand which grain you need.
***: with AL there is a skin which appear as soon as it's been sanded ( oxygen react with upper AL layer and does a natural anodising). Something like waiting a day is ok, one week and you'll have to sand it again...
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Two things i forgot: work with non powdered nitril glove and degrease.
Bare hands leave small amount of grease which can be seen in the outcome.
When bare aluminium is sanded ( before primer) use acetone to degrease the surface. Between primer sanding and first layer of paint use isopropyl alcohol ( some primer accept acetone but not all... test before!).
Bare hands leave small amount of grease which can be seen in the outcome.
When bare aluminium is sanded ( before primer) use acetone to degrease the surface. Between primer sanding and first layer of paint use isopropyl alcohol ( some primer accept acetone but not all... test before!).
^ hmm.
It's a bit offtopic as the op speced painted aluminium.
Anyway if you want to paint aluminium bike frame you need to do it 'professional way': a 2 or 3 component approach ( like for cars. But you can use spraycan, there is now very good products availlable):
You first need to clean previous paint works ( sanding, media blasting*, chemical...) including primer. From there sand it with 400grain**
Once done you have short timeframe *** to aply first a dedicated to aluminium primer ( first component). Best if 2parts epoxy ( it protect alu from corroding).
Let dry then 400grain sanding.
Now time to paint using your prefered paint ( i use regular Montana Gold brand spraycan).
Once cured then varnish ( here again two part epoxy is a must). Multiple layers will give a 'deeper' rendering ( use 'wet on wet' technique for varnish).
It's time consuming, a bit costly and require a bit of practice as if you fail at any stage you are good to do it again... but it gives the best results you could expect: it's the way it's done professionaly for custom artworks.
It garantee you won't have bad reactions between layers ( the bubbling you talked about), your frame wont corrode and if correctly handled will stay as is for a long time...
I use primer and varnish from this brand ( 2k range):
https://www.spraymax.com/
For paint this one:
https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/gold-400ml-artist-paint/
If you don't want the hassle of a pro approach try 'spraybike' products. Works great for 'ghetto style' artwork in my experience ( done some bmx and child bike with it). But if you keep the previous paint layer ( don't clean the frame) it might end up with bubbles and all...
Their primers are ok, varnish not bad too. Application is different than pro stuff ( you need to be way closer, paint is almost dry when it touch frame even with small (~12cm) distance! Fairly different from Montana's can and their caps ( they define the spray width, amount of paint,...)
https://fr.spray.bike/
*: for media blasting no sand! It'll destroy aluminium. You need something like concussed cherry core ( sorry i don't know translation in english), softer material than AL
**: it depends of the kind of primer/paint you use: too fine (800) and it won't hold/grip. Too coarse and finish will suffer... it is usually speced by brand which grain you need.
***: with AL there is a skin which appear as soon as it's been sanded ( oxygen react with upper AL layer and does a natural anodising). Something like waiting a day is ok, one week and you'll have to sand it again.
Feel free to re read my post if you missed something. Other metals were on topic, pertaining to oils that contaminate metals it wasnt meant for through handling and shipping. And at supplier houses after many hands/ gloves handle it. If it isn't visible there can be enough contaminate to hinder paint adhesion. I wasn't being off topic the first, or second time thanks
.BTW plastic bead blasting works best on aluminum IMO. And will not cause pitting. Crushed nut shell is another option. Safe for aluminums. Correct to stay away from using sand on the softer metals.
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I did read and re read your post and when you say an 'aluminium bike frame rejected every paint i tried' i hear a bare/nude/raw frame... so no paint previoudly applied no?
But it could have been lost in translation? Let's try explain it in french and see how it goes...
But who cares... you give good advice anyway ( contamination of oil is a real issue).
Crushed nut shell is what i thoughts about when talking about 'concussed cherry core' ( it is how it is called in french). Never tried plastic bead on alu ( if possible i try not to use non recyclable materials), but i had with sand ( BAD idea! )... Nut shell are great with softer material ( even with not soft material too like carbon frame, it gives a smooth finish and you can even skip on 400grain sanding depending on caliber of Nut shell).
Another way which have not been discussed to 'write' on painted metal is use of stickers/ decal. Works great too but could need varnish/clear coat depending on use.
But it could have been lost in translation? Let's try explain it in french and see how it goes...
But who cares... you give good advice anyway ( contamination of oil is a real issue).
Crushed nut shell is what i thoughts about when talking about 'concussed cherry core' ( it is how it is called in french). Never tried plastic bead on alu ( if possible i try not to use non recyclable materials), but i had with sand ( BAD idea!
)... Nut shell are great with softer material ( even with not soft material too like carbon frame, it gives a smooth finish and you can even skip on 400grain sanding depending on caliber of Nut shell).Another way which have not been discussed to 'write' on painted metal is use of stickers/ decal. Works great too but could need varnish/clear coat depending on use.
I use clear with white print label tape. Looks better than the pictures show as the camera seems to highlite the tape a bit.
White on Clear
Clear Mat
I haven't tried the mat finish. Text says white but package says black text.
White on Clear
Clear Mat
I haven't tried the mat finish. Text says white but package says black text.
A stencil is another option. I will transfer stenciling i want on to 3M masking tape after I lay it out where I wish to have the paint or ink done. That way I don't run into trouble with the medium bleeding through the stencils edges and get where I don't want it.
Quality mink hair brush. tape and ink are good ideas.
Most importantly, quality tape.
A decent air brush works as well or better. Even for basic fonts and numerals.
I filled in missing silkscreen on a DR2 this way. The new buyer couldn't tell except for a very slight colour difference under sunlight.
Quality mink hair brush. tape and ink are good ideas.
Most importantly, quality tape.
A decent air brush works as well or better. Even for basic fonts and numerals.
I filled in missing silkscreen on a DR2 this way. The new buyer couldn't tell except for a very slight colour difference under sunlight.
I was also in trouble because transfer lettering like Decadry was discontinued.
I don't want to spend a lot of money so I use UV curable inks for PCBs.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...vid=202305140849382165385439977500012041511_1
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...132702965!sea!UK!0&curPageLogUid=CVko1ThOVI4K
Using ”Word”, etc., output to OHP paper to make a negative film. It is good to stack 2 layers to increase the light blocking effect.
Put the ink on the panel.
Place transparent cellophane paper on top of it and spread the ink evenly and thinly.
Place the film on top of it, align the position, and place the plate glass.
Firmly adhere and expose. About 5 minutes in vertical direct sunlight.
A UV LED would work, but I prefer direct sunlight.
When the cellophane is removed, the hardened ink remains. Wipe off uncured ink with lacquer thinner.
It may take some practice until you get the hang of it.
The black alumite panel was hard to get ink on, so I had to redo it many times.
I don't want to spend a lot of money so I use UV curable inks for PCBs.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...vid=202305140849382165385439977500012041511_1
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...132702965!sea!UK!0&curPageLogUid=CVko1ThOVI4K
Using ”Word”, etc., output to OHP paper to make a negative film. It is good to stack 2 layers to increase the light blocking effect.
Put the ink on the panel.
Place transparent cellophane paper on top of it and spread the ink evenly and thinly.
Place the film on top of it, align the position, and place the plate glass.
Firmly adhere and expose. About 5 minutes in vertical direct sunlight.
A UV LED would work, but I prefer direct sunlight.
When the cellophane is removed, the hardened ink remains. Wipe off uncured ink with lacquer thinner.
It may take some practice until you get the hang of it.
The black alumite panel was hard to get ink on, so I had to redo it many times.
Mayson thats new to me , nice going. I thought you would brush finish it but the black looks as fine in the end. I also like how you left the dial tics and the ring. Its a bit understated yet sharp in the same moment. The dial a good match too.
I finally figured out how to do real brush finish.
I finally figured out how to do real brush finish.
If I go near them atm I'll likely add to more confusion. We got our point across no harm no foul thanks.I did read and re read your post and when you say an 'aluminium bike frame rejected every paint i tried' i hear a bare/nude/raw frame... so no paint previoudly applied no?
But it could have been lost in translation? Let's try explain it in french and see how it goes...
But who cares... you give good advice anyway ( contamination of oil is a real issue).
Crushed nut shell is what i thoughts about when talking about 'concussed cherry core' ( it is how it is called in french). Never tried plastic bead on alu ( if possible i try not to use non recyclable materials), but i had with sand ( BAD idea!
Another way which have not been discussed to 'write' on painted metal is use of stickers/ decal. Works great too but could need varnish/clear coat depending on use.
Glass is another media thats used.
Theeres one sure certain thing about audio is there is never a shortage of ideas or options down just about every avenue.
I seen sand blasted stenciling over painted aluminum out today. so the original metal shows through. The blasting also adds a frosted finish to the metal. Its quite slick and clean looking contrasting with a flat paint. Small font suitable for an amplifier. It made me think of masons black beauty amplifier over there.
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Take the panel to an engraver. They'd be able to either engrave just through the paint or go a little deeper and then fill the engraved groove with paint/ink.
You could also contact @Gianluca at ModuShop: www.modushop.biz. They're in Italy and I know they do digital printing of aluminum panels.
Tom