It’s also a few pages back—here again (the one in the image is a regular lugged switch which will work with some filing)—this one matches the select switch, but vertical:
ACP+ Perfect e-switch
ACP+ Perfect e-switch
Attachments
I was just putting together a BOM to share for the ACP+ and was looking at this yesterday. Note that the Carling Tech switches come in about 50 different variants, and the ones I had on hand which are like these ( https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...M1-DP1-T1-B1-M1QE?qs=9t37pWCijWEn8j22B0TWMA== ) which upon closer inspection you will notice that the pins are actually little loops. Those loops do not fit through the holes on the board unless you crush them with pliers. Definitely not ideal, so I found these instead which I am using in the BOM I am assembling:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...j4/U5qxsPsw==&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD
--Tom
Apologies for the noob questions but I'm building this as my first project where I'm ordering the parts off of the parts list, and not coming as a pre compiled kit. I've ordered most off of Mouser with some from digikey and diyaudiostore when not available.
Resistors I understand the .5w 1% and value for the majority of the resistor, however I'm seeing different temp coefficient like between these two series of resistors SFR25H, or SFR16S. Does it matter? if not in what situations might it matter?
SFR25H0001001FR500 Vishay / BC Components | Mouser
SFR16S0001503FR500 Vishay / BC Components | Mouser
For the IRF610p the closest match i could find was IRF610PBF to my eyes they look the same but not sure.
IRF610PBF Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser
Lastly the "Gold audio grade" cap spec'd I could only find this match however it is a "snap in" will that be alright for this use?
LKG1E102MESACK Nichicon | Mouser
Many thanks to all who make this community possible.
Resistors I understand the .5w 1% and value for the majority of the resistor, however I'm seeing different temp coefficient like between these two series of resistors SFR25H, or SFR16S. Does it matter? if not in what situations might it matter?
SFR25H0001001FR500 Vishay / BC Components | Mouser
SFR16S0001503FR500 Vishay / BC Components | Mouser
For the IRF610p the closest match i could find was IRF610PBF to my eyes they look the same but not sure.
IRF610PBF Vishay Semiconductors | Mouser
Lastly the "Gold audio grade" cap spec'd I could only find this match however it is a "snap in" will that be alright for this use?
LKG1E102MESACK Nichicon | Mouser
Many thanks to all who make this community possible.
No apologies necessary, everyone here was a noob at one time.
I don't think the temp coefficient matters much. Given multiple temp coefficients at the same price, and with all else equal, I'll usually take the lower PPM values. But I wouldn't sweat this one at all.
IRF610PBF is the correct one. When ROHS took effect, a lot of manufacturers added "PBF" (for Pb-Free, with "Pb" being the periodic table symbol for lead) to the end of lots of part #s to designate that this was a lead free version that complied with ROHS. Otherwise there is no difference in IRF610 and IRF610PBF, and as you can see the plain IRF610 is no longer available.
That snap-in cap won't work. Unfortunately Mouser is out of the 25v 1000uF Nichicon FG at the moment, probably due to the popularity of this project. I ordered the 35v version,https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UFG1V102MHM?qs=kArNe9LFxXkjRTR5kFIyug== but be aware that it has 7.5mm lead spacing rather than the 5mm spacing that the board is made for. It's not a huge deal, but you'll have to bend the cap leads inwards with a needle nose, and the bottom of the cap will still sit 1-2mm up off the board. Again, not a huge deal and probably won't be noticable when the whole thing is completed unless you're looking for it (I haven't got mine soldered up yet or else I'd post a pic). Just something to be aware of. If this bothers you, you might want to look at Digikey or Handmade Electronics Handmade Electronics- Audio and general electronic components - Handmade Electronics for the 25v version which has the correct 5mm lead spacing.
I don't think the temp coefficient matters much. Given multiple temp coefficients at the same price, and with all else equal, I'll usually take the lower PPM values. But I wouldn't sweat this one at all.
IRF610PBF is the correct one. When ROHS took effect, a lot of manufacturers added "PBF" (for Pb-Free, with "Pb" being the periodic table symbol for lead) to the end of lots of part #s to designate that this was a lead free version that complied with ROHS. Otherwise there is no difference in IRF610 and IRF610PBF, and as you can see the plain IRF610 is no longer available.
That snap-in cap won't work. Unfortunately Mouser is out of the 25v 1000uF Nichicon FG at the moment, probably due to the popularity of this project. I ordered the 35v version,https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UFG1V102MHM?qs=kArNe9LFxXkjRTR5kFIyug== but be aware that it has 7.5mm lead spacing rather than the 5mm spacing that the board is made for. It's not a huge deal, but you'll have to bend the cap leads inwards with a needle nose, and the bottom of the cap will still sit 1-2mm up off the board. Again, not a huge deal and probably won't be noticable when the whole thing is completed unless you're looking for it (I haven't got mine soldered up yet or else I'd post a pic). Just something to be aware of. If this bothers you, you might want to look at Digikey or Handmade Electronics Handmade Electronics- Audio and general electronic components - Handmade Electronics for the 25v version which has the correct 5mm lead spacing.
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Hmm shoot it looks like I may have misguided you slightly. Looks like the 25v version is also 7.5mm lead spacing. I thought it was 5mm, but I see now that I was wrong.
So in that case, you might as well stick with the 35v version from Mouser if you've already got a Mouser project or cart populated with the rest of the ACP+ BOM.
Argh, why can't we edit posts for more than 30 minutes. I hate not being able to correct or delete something I said that was incorrect.
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5mm LS, 10mm dia, 25V, 1000uF, Gold -
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UFW1E102MPD1TD/4317903
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UFW1E102MPD1TD/4317903
Ugh...I didn't know the UFW series was gold too...idiot.
Ok I've had this burning question since I started reading about the ACP+ a month ago, and this seems like as good a time as ever to ask...why does Nelson specifically call out a gold capacitor for C3? Does the gold wrapper signify some certain spec or design criteria that I don't know about?
Or is it just meant to be an "audio grade" electrolytic cap? If that's the case, why is the input cap C1 not also designated as such?
I bought C1 and C3 both in 3 flavors, Elna RFS (Silmic II), Nichicon FG, and Nichicon KZ. To be clear this is probably not necessary, so I'm not recommending that any one else do this. I just plan to swap them out and see if I can hear a difference, after an equal burn-in time across all 3 pairs of course. I've been really wanting to do my own experiment comparing different "audio-grade" electrolytics for awhile now, so I decided to do it with this project. Hopefully it's a decent circuit in which to hear the differences between different types of electrolytics. If not, what's a better one?
Ok I've had this burning question since I started reading about the ACP+ a month ago, and this seems like as good a time as ever to ask...why does Nelson specifically call out a gold capacitor for C3? Does the gold wrapper signify some certain spec or design criteria that I don't know about?
Or is it just meant to be an "audio grade" electrolytic cap? If that's the case, why is the input cap C1 not also designated as such?
I bought C1 and C3 both in 3 flavors, Elna RFS (Silmic II), Nichicon FG, and Nichicon KZ. To be clear this is probably not necessary, so I'm not recommending that any one else do this. I just plan to swap them out and see if I can hear a difference, after an equal burn-in time across all 3 pairs of course. I've been really wanting to do my own experiment comparing different "audio-grade" electrolytics for awhile now, so I decided to do it with this project. Hopefully it's a decent circuit in which to hear the differences between different types of electrolytics. If not, what's a better one?
He called them out specifically to help soothe audiophile nervousness. People worry (needlessly) about coupling capacitors. So if you use one that's "audio", it must be better. 
I've never heard a difference in an output coupling cap. I've also never heard a cap "burn-in". So I'm the wrong person to ask. I will happily use Nichicon with "audio" on the datasheet just because it's fun and there are people engineering these things that may actually know something.
I've never heard a difference in an output coupling cap. I've also never heard a cap "burn-in". So I'm the wrong person to ask. I will happily use Nichicon with "audio" on the datasheet just because it's fun and there are people engineering these things that may actually know something.
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