Box recommendations for Markaudio MAOP 7.2

[GM]

• The vented one has a rear port and a bit too deep, but I suppose the BR can be moved to the front and depth reduced and volume compensated in width/height without affecting the tuning?
• The closed one looks interesting, but the bass response seems very limited. Tried simulating in WinISD, see below. How would that sound in real life? No bass whatsoever, or OK-ish? Otherwise, why would someone want such a speaker? Maybe that would work fine in my placement?
• The slot vent one - any advantages over the usual BR?

Also, they all say the below, can someone please explain the meaning?

View attachment 1285761

Greets!

Correct

Since not hard against a wall, pretty much like it looks in the sim

In this case, no

Typical modern high damping factor (DF) SS amp with some DF loss due to a bit of XO component, wiring series resistance, increasing the driver's Qts a small amount (Qts'). From extremely dim memory, seems like WinISD Pro has the option in 'Advanced', though if only 1/2 ohm it's not enough to audibly change most speaker alignments

 

[Billybob25]

Nice work! Do you have more build pics? Did you only use glue or screws as well? Is the back of the speaker veneered as well? How did you apply the veneer with the speaker terminals attached?

Thanks, definitely a satisfying project.
1. Only glued, used PVA and clamped tightly, there’s a couple of more pcs here. Might go with a stronger polyurethane next time, but fine as is on these little guys. Cabinet timber is 12mm 7 ply.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...e-between-maop-7-maop-11.388552/#post-7174934
2. Back done as well, didn’t bother with the base though.
3. Unsoldered the terminals to do the back. Not much room to get fingers in the slot, so closer placement of the terminals would have been less fiddly to get the cables back out. Manageable with a bit of inventiveness. Dremel to open out and sand the front and rear veneer once glued in place.
Using LMS to a WiiM Mini, then optical to Loxjie A30. Mainly high res internet radio feeds.

 

[infected]

Greets!

Hi. Took me a while to figure out that each line in your post is an answer to one of my questions quotes Thanks!

Correct

Great!

Since not hard against a wall, pretty much like it looks in the sim

So why would someone choose to build a closed box with LF response of 100Hz at -3dB? Why did markaudio bother to design and share it?

In this case, no

In what case would the slot vent be a better choice than the usual round port BR?

Typical modern high damping factor (DF) SS amp with some DF loss due to a bit of XO component, wiring series resistance, increasing the driver's Qts a small amount (Qts'). From extremely dim memory, seems like WinISD Pro has the option in 'Advanced', though if only 1/2 ohm it's not enough to audibly change most speaker alignments

Ok, so they're saying they've accounted for some SS amp resistance. Do I need to care about this if I intend to use a tube amp?

 

[infected]

there’s a couple of more pcs here.

Looks professional I guess I'll have to use some screws instead of the clamps. If all goes well and I like the speakers, the screws can be covered with veneer.

 

[chrisb]

I do remember there was 5 years between 1 & 3. The exact date of FH3 wiklk be buried inthe diyFEST threads,

dave

http://frugal-horn.com/FH3.html

 

[infected]

but i would like to double check from the supplied T/S data. Can you post that info?

Here are mine:

 

[arvi]

For what it’s worth, I think that builder chose large radius curved edge over 45dg chamfer/bevel to simplify veneering process. For my own numerous builds I was fortunate enough to have access to commercial table saws capable of cutting those large bevels, generally had decent luck with veneering them, and the visibility of exposed edge of paper backing never bothered me that much.

View attachment 1286189

Chris
Question re hot glue veneering on pensil: how big of a chamfer do you cut— around 6mm? And then do you fold the veneer over the chamfer? Thanks