I do like power! My top car audio system had custom modified Arc Audio amps, 100 watts RMS per tweeter, 200 per mid, 300 per dual midbass so 900 watts per channel and 1kw per 12" sub. Great dynamics with that much power. This was a pure SQ system, not SPL which it did quite well on but I never competed in it, just SQ and did very well.
The Vanguard has become a valuable monitor speaker here (in good company among our excellent speaker stable for testing and development of high quality MC phono cartridges).
Most recently we directly compared it with our Stirling Broadcast LS3/5a V2 with very large external Cicable crossover networks which is arguably the best sounding LS3/5a ever. But due to the superior “Harsch” topology crossover design, and the purposefully slightly larger box volume of the Vanguard, the overall neutrality, and the correctness throughout the mid-bass (including lower male vocal) and upper-low-bass region of the Vanguard, it clearly was victorious over the “original” LS3/5a in resolving and defining this critical region. So the Vanguard “won” its place as our monitor speaker of choice in this segment (we also employ other monitor speakers like the Quad 57 and the Wilson Audio SabrinaX that are equally excellent in their own segments and classes). But the Vanguard is also here for day-to-day enjoyment and casual listening, so I consider it a ‘keeper’ and ‘all round’ speaker for multiple use in daily life. (And such a bargain to acquire as well.)
(Disclaimer: I paid the full retail price for my speakers that I personally own, and they are not ever likely to be re-sold.)
Most recently we directly compared it with our Stirling Broadcast LS3/5a V2 with very large external Cicable crossover networks which is arguably the best sounding LS3/5a ever. But due to the superior “Harsch” topology crossover design, and the purposefully slightly larger box volume of the Vanguard, the overall neutrality, and the correctness throughout the mid-bass (including lower male vocal) and upper-low-bass region of the Vanguard, it clearly was victorious over the “original” LS3/5a in resolving and defining this critical region. So the Vanguard “won” its place as our monitor speaker of choice in this segment (we also employ other monitor speakers like the Quad 57 and the Wilson Audio SabrinaX that are equally excellent in their own segments and classes). But the Vanguard is also here for day-to-day enjoyment and casual listening, so I consider it a ‘keeper’ and ‘all round’ speaker for multiple use in daily life. (And such a bargain to acquire as well.)
(Disclaimer: I paid the full retail price for my speakers that I personally own, and they are not ever likely to be re-sold.)
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Hi Elecon,
Thank you for sharing your experience and listening impressions. Amazing to hear that Vanguard beat the Stirling LS3/5A. Neutrality is always a good thing because it means all genres play well. Can you tell us more about the signal chain and what MM/MC cartridges, phono preamp, power amp you used for the comparison?
Thank you for sharing your experience and listening impressions. Amazing to hear that Vanguard beat the Stirling LS3/5A. Neutrality is always a good thing because it means all genres play well. Can you tell us more about the signal chain and what MM/MC cartridges, phono preamp, power amp you used for the comparison?
The equipment used during the testing were:
(1) In-house designed low output, low impedance MC cartridge (unnamed prototype) in Well-Tempered Versalex tonearm and turntable.
(2) In-house designed MC phono stage applying all-discrete air-dielectric construction
(3) Spectral DMC-30SV line preamplifier
(4) Marantz Model 5 (re-built, updated, and calibrated by our partner) - with NOS tubes and alternatively Nelson Pass 'First Watt' M2 transistor power amp.
(5) XRK Audio 'Vanguard' speakers vs crossover-less Stirling Broadcast LS3/5a V2 with external 'Cicable' crossover networks
In addition to the analog source, we also used the following digital source components:
(a) EMM LABS DAC2X with TSDX (transport) for CD/SACD disc playback
(b) GUSTARD R26 discrete R2R (ladder) decoder with streamer/renderer and MQA/Bluetooth
(1) In-house designed low output, low impedance MC cartridge (unnamed prototype) in Well-Tempered Versalex tonearm and turntable.
(2) In-house designed MC phono stage applying all-discrete air-dielectric construction
(3) Spectral DMC-30SV line preamplifier
(4) Marantz Model 5 (re-built, updated, and calibrated by our partner) - with NOS tubes and alternatively Nelson Pass 'First Watt' M2 transistor power amp.
(5) XRK Audio 'Vanguard' speakers vs crossover-less Stirling Broadcast LS3/5a V2 with external 'Cicable' crossover networks
In addition to the analog source, we also used the following digital source components:
(a) EMM LABS DAC2X with TSDX (transport) for CD/SACD disc playback
(b) GUSTARD R26 discrete R2R (ladder) decoder with streamer/renderer and MQA/Bluetooth
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A new review of the Vanguards just came out.
https://headphone.guru/xsa-labs-vanguard-loudspeaker-review-budget-audiophile-extreme/
https://headphone.guru/xsa-labs-vanguard-loudspeaker-review-budget-audiophile-extreme/
Tone Audio’s System of the Year includes Vanguard as the speakers.
https://www.tonepublications.com/audiophile-apartment/our-system-of-the-year-for-2023/
https://www.tonepublications.com/audiophile-apartment/our-system-of-the-year-for-2023/
Vanguard prototypes are the main test speakers in my lab now. Playing continuously for 48hrs doing burn-in of new TPA3255 amp PCB testing. Wonderful sound and still impresses me when I listen to it over and over again. I think that over time, one comes to realize how special a speaker is when you can return to it time after time and not tire of it. Still able to evoke an emotional response when listening to same music tracks that I have heard 1000 times before.
DANG FINE INDEED!!!
I have so much going on and not able to build anything audio or work on our remodel during this hard core winter it makes me think of doing the simpler route that I know would be outstanding for music listening.
Sell all the gear I have, parts, etc....worth around $15k and buy Vanguards, one of your amp designs, get two small power subs, right DAC, no turntable as no room for LP's in the RV, good streaming setup and be done with it. Only real question is the right DSP, DAC, Xover, etc setup for the cleanest and simplest way to go, minimalist but superb.
I have lots of other hobbies, dozens over the decades I have been into and more on my bucket list, only 70 and healthy so I plan to do much oriented to help others as I can.
Congrats on the great review, well earned!
Rick
I have so much going on and not able to build anything audio or work on our remodel during this hard core winter it makes me think of doing the simpler route that I know would be outstanding for music listening.
Sell all the gear I have, parts, etc....worth around $15k and buy Vanguards, one of your amp designs, get two small power subs, right DAC, no turntable as no room for LP's in the RV, good streaming setup and be done with it. Only real question is the right DSP, DAC, Xover, etc setup for the cleanest and simplest way to go, minimalist but superb.
I have lots of other hobbies, dozens over the decades I have been into and more on my bucket list, only 70 and healthy so I plan to do much oriented to help others as I can.
Congrats on the great review, well earned!
Rick
Hi RAAM,
Not a bad idea. Maybe get some Vanguards and a Warp-1 amp, plus a commercial active subwoofer. (I use Polk 10in and works very well). You will have a fine sounding system for an RV. Minimal fuss.
I can show you how to modify a Warp-1 to have pass through auxiliary stereo line out (from on board OPA1656 opamp) to drive the subwoofer input. Many subs accept speaker level input so you would not need to do this.
Not a bad idea. Maybe get some Vanguards and a Warp-1 amp, plus a commercial active subwoofer. (I use Polk 10in and works very well). You will have a fine sounding system for an RV. Minimal fuss.
I can show you how to modify a Warp-1 to have pass through auxiliary stereo line out (from on board OPA1656 opamp) to drive the subwoofer input. Many subs accept speaker level input so you would not need to do this.