Aleph J Dim Bulb Tester Post

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Joined 2007
Looks good man.
Oh, it def applies... baby boy, who's 15 years behind our oldest, just hired on as an engineer in the Meta Optics Lab. How old am I? Plenty
 
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Its too bad that we often don't appreciate the wisdom of age till ......Thank you for your kind guidance, and the suggestion re. gnd., seems like sound practice!
 
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My grandad, after troubles with his new smart TV said " It's taken me 92 years to get this stupid".
Expletives deleted :LOL:
 
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My pleasure... proper grounding and bonding is key in regards to safety. BTW, If your box is metal, it will also need a ground jumper. While I'm at it... don't buy the cheap outlets with push in terminals (backstab) spend a couple extra bucks. Screw terminals with pressure plates always and never gauge the quality of the connection by screw pressure alone. Pull on the wire-
 
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Adequate but second tier. If you're using a stranded wire ie: thhn or the plug in pigtail youre most likely using, a crimp connector is required for a std screw terminal. Pressure plates provide a more secure connection and accept strd or solid.
 
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Wired DBT?
20240416_113754 (FILEminimizer).jpg 20240416_113826 (FILEminimizer).jpg
 
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Grab your 25W bulb and socket and plug it in to the switched outlet. Reading resistance from the upper and lower screws on the input side should alternate OL- ~40R as you throw the switch. When that's done, the hot will run from that upper screw (outlet adjacent) to the brass or black screw on the duplex. This will correspond to the narrow blade. The neutral will tie down opposite under a silver screw and will correspond to the wide blade and will be a single wire direct from your pigtail. The switch/outlet side does not get a neutral connection.
 
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@seventenths
I'm really only familiar (and happy) with the solid conductors we used to specify for the building systems we designed.
I bow to your superior experience with stranded conductors. "Pressure plates"? The wiring devices I'm know only have a screw that secures against the brass component (or structural frame for the "green" ground screw) of the device.
 
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@mhenschel They're fine, I'm just picky. Power and light isn't my everyday thing but when it comes up, it's usually pipe and stranded thhn so it's either crimp and heatshrink everything or use devices with pressure/contact terminals. The same applies to corded setups like this but a couple of crimps at the workbench are nbd. I dropped wirenuts for wago lever locks for the same reason and will never go back
 
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Mine aren't. In summer worse, maybe help with heat in winter. I see amp building in 100 years having small "window unit" A/C HANGING OFF THE BACK!
 
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Or devices has been stored and not used for a long time.
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In addition to the fuse holder, the bulb can also be connect across the power switch before plugging into an outlet or receptacle. If the bulb does not light up, turn on the power switch to bypass the bulb.
You can re form caps in old amp with variac. Well, if still "reformable" anyway. Just take slow ramp up over long time 😜
 
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Something I have meant to by for ages is one of those nifty electric wire strippers. No more shredded thumb nails. I think of it every build.
R you serious, definitely should get some strippers. I use both a Craftsman similar to this for 16g up and a Greenlee 1917 for smaller gauge. Spend once enjoy for years to come!
 
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@Toys4Boys right on, all set there? The dbt is such a useful tool. One of the few areas in life where I rarely make a mistake is wiring but I still lean back and close one eye when I throw the switch. Probably shell shock from connecting a cap bank backwards ~15 years ago...
@Russellc lol, dude... treat yourself to something nice ;) +1 on the Greenlee 1917s or 1955s. Your manicurist will love you.
 
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A .22 pistol doesn't produce the most intimidating retort but a quick couple of pops behind you in your suburban kitchen adds an extra dimension to the experience. Had my wife been in the vicinity, I might not have lived to tell the tale.
In all seriousness, safety should always be front and center. In recent years, I've cut a 3/4"x 1/8" kerf through the middle of my finger tip, sent a spark from a grinder into a large charcoal airfilter drawing over 1000 cfm and shot molten hellfire across my shop hammer-welding Damascus steel with a bit too much flux and a heavy hand.
A straight up, living, breathing " don't be like Bob" advert but I did eventually get the lesson.
 
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