Ok, I have Few pictures 😀. Please bear in mind this is my first effort and pretty much everything was my first attempt at anything.
This was a bench test before assembly just to check all was good.
One of the two pairs of tda7293 amps fromESP.
Crossover filter and regulated psu in progress.
Front panel in preparation.
Rear of front panel with t-nuts inserted. You can see the side of an earlier more complete one on the right.
Very nearly complete here.
Prototype 2 and 3. The midrange was unobtainable for a long time so I had to substitute a Kevlar midrange for 3.
And here is the first effort. Note the external wiring to get enough separation between cables.
And finally a random picture of work in progress.
Having now read lots of build threads, I suspect no-one in their right mind would do it like I did, but they work well and I learned a hell of a lot on the way.
Thanks all for the interest. I wish you all success with your projects.
One of the two pairs of tda7293 amps fromESP.
Crossover filter and regulated psu in progress.
And here is the first effort. Note the external wiring to get enough separation between cables.
Having now read lots of build threads, I suspect no-one in their right mind would do it like I did, but they work well and I learned a hell of a lot on the way.
Thanks all for the interest. I wish you all success with your projects.
I have a drawer full of unused Sure products. They always come up with interesting designs, but always fail in their execution. Here's my distortion measurements for the JAB5 board. The 200 mV loopback is without the JAB5in the loop. Sure could make decent performing products by just upgrading a couple of components, that's what exasperates me. Over a decade ago Trevor Marshall investigated the high distortion in a Sure 7498 based amplifier, the same amp chip used in the JAB5. By upgrading one capacitor per channel he was able to greatly reduce the distortion, See the attachment for details.
I've been on the miniDSP train for a long time now. Even if you don't end up using one of their products in this project it's worth it to try something out.
I've had their products in my main stereo and my car audio builds. But even when I've moved the miniDSP products out of my main system I've found them very useful in prototyping and testing out projects in the shop.
I've used:
10x10
OpenDRC DA8 (older version of the FLEX Eight)
2x4HD
multiple CDSPs (car audio product)
Currently have an SHD in my main stereo.
I've had their products in my main stereo and my car audio builds. But even when I've moved the miniDSP products out of my main system I've found them very useful in prototyping and testing out projects in the shop.
I've used:
10x10
OpenDRC DA8 (older version of the FLEX Eight)
2x4HD
multiple CDSPs (car audio product)
Currently have an SHD in my main stereo.
Thanks!
I like them very much!
great looking speakers, the challenge you chose as first project is very inspiring.
I have had positive experiences with the 3e Audio boards.
https://www.3e-audio.com/amplifier-kits/tpa32xx-with-pffb/
https://www.3e-audio.com/amplifier-kits/tpa32xx-with-pffb/
Transparency for the end user is very important. At diyaudio we can read about high class multiway active speakers with pc-dsp etc. which work only if you are EE and listen stereo.
I have had Hypex FAxxx or minidsp and ICEPower modules powered on 24/7 for many years without problems. I use an AVR (Yamaha RX-Vxxx) with pre-outs to control the system, with center and rear channels driven by the AVR. Source are AVR's FM radio or streamer, TV (HDMI-ARC) CD, vinyl, DVD etc.
I have had Hypex FAxxx or minidsp and ICEPower modules powered on 24/7 for many years without problems. I use an AVR (Yamaha RX-Vxxx) with pre-outs to control the system, with center and rear channels driven by the AVR. Source are AVR's FM radio or streamer, TV (HDMI-ARC) CD, vinyl, DVD etc.
Hey, anyone with data with their recent products, it would be great if you gave feedback about the performance. Hopefully they consider taking performance into consideration in future. Contact information bottom of their webpage.
I can only assume that they sell quite a lot because of the price, and many of the sold units could end up into a landfill which is not very sustainable.. Bettering quality hopefully increases usability and sustainability. Not sure if that's their business strategy though, pollute the planet reaping profits, in which case also feedback on the platform you bought the product would be good to inform other customers.
I can only assume that they sell quite a lot because of the price, and many of the sold units could end up into a landfill which is not very sustainable.. Bettering quality hopefully increases usability and sustainability. Not sure if that's their business strategy though, pollute the planet reaping profits, in which case also feedback on the platform you bought the product would be good to inform other customers.
I agree with Tmuikku,
Don’t write a nasty letter or complaining.
Write a letter with helpful suggestions. If you have a find a problem and resolve it, feed it back. hardware or software etc.
You don’t have to be a big customer or big client. (Though it helps)
Here’s proof:
Don’t write a nasty letter or complaining.
Write a letter with helpful suggestions. If you have a find a problem and resolve it, feed it back. hardware or software etc.
You don’t have to be a big customer or big client. (Though it helps)
Here’s proof:
Monacor SPH135C is an excellent midwoofer. This inconspicuous driver offers great bass and a very natural midrange. Despite its rather vintage design, it still stands up well, even with speakers like the SB15NAC.
I used this speaker in small floorstanders and was very pleased with the result. Unfortunately, such narrow enclosures have a huge impact on the diffraction in the tweeter's bandwidth, which there is virtually nothing you can do about. The only option is to use a waveguide tweeter and use a higher crossover point, but the Monacor SPH135C is unfortunately not suitable for such solutions.
I used this speaker in small floorstanders and was very pleased with the result. Unfortunately, such narrow enclosures have a huge impact on the diffraction in the tweeter's bandwidth, which there is virtually nothing you can do about. The only option is to use a waveguide tweeter and use a higher crossover point, but the Monacor SPH135C is unfortunately not suitable for such solutions.
@mV8 in my design above I use a pair of these SPH135Cs but only up to 300Hz and cross over to a smaller 4" midrange cone, either the SPH-102KEP (Kevlar) or the MSH115HQ (Paper).
I do plan to try a build using the SPH135C as a midrange with my 10" Bass unit. They will of course will be MUCH wider and are most unlikely ever to grace my Living room. Is there anything I can do to make that idea work well or is it just a bad idea? (Go 4 way and use a waveguide??)
I do plan to try a build using the SPH135C as a midrange with my 10" Bass unit. They will of course will be MUCH wider and are most unlikely ever to grace my Living room. Is there anything I can do to make that idea work well or is it just a bad idea? (Go 4 way and use a waveguide??)
I think it's a bit of a waste to give the Monacor SPH135C for bass alone, because you could choose a better speaker for that, which will have an advantage on bass alone. The Monacor SPH135C has good bass and good midrange.
As for the 3 way, you could use two SPH135Cs in an MTM configuration with a waveguide tweeter, using LR4 filtering.
As for the 3 way, you could use two SPH135Cs in an MTM configuration with a waveguide tweeter, using LR4 filtering.
One of the factors that was critical for me was the narrowness of the frame and the power handling as well as the price. Round 5.25” units would make the cabinet wider.
I’m more aware of alternate drivers and sources at this point than I was then.
I like the idea of MTM with waveguided tweeter. So thanks for that!
I’m more aware of alternate drivers and sources at this point than I was then.
I like the idea of MTM with waveguided tweeter. So thanks for that!
I have built a few 3 ways and 2 ways when I was younger and I want to admit to a deep dark secret that I've had pent up all these years - I only made 3 ways because they looked awesome. Then when I made 2 ways I made them MTM because they looked better and almost like 3 ways.
Lately I've decided to complicate my life [because suffering in Eastern Europe isn't enough] and build a new 3 way on a small budget (like Jim's but at a third of the price)... which then became an MTM 2 way because it looks almost as awesome and is cheaper with less effort... and when I was unsatisfied with how loud the low end could get and the poor extension in a ported box due to physics shakes fists... then was conceptualised as a backloaded horn (complete insanity on my part)... then my final hope was something that looked like a frugal styled horn (to lessen the insanity... which it didn't) and now I've abandoned everything and settled on something that's impossible to explain and I haven't seen anywhere. Sometimes... cheap builds just aren't cheap builds and it seems eternal suffering 'just because' is the way of our people.
I eagerly await progress.
Lately I've decided to complicate my life [because suffering in Eastern Europe isn't enough] and build a new 3 way on a small budget (like Jim's but at a third of the price)... which then became an MTM 2 way because it looks almost as awesome and is cheaper with less effort... and when I was unsatisfied with how loud the low end could get and the poor extension in a ported box due to physics shakes fists... then was conceptualised as a backloaded horn (complete insanity on my part)... then my final hope was something that looked like a frugal styled horn (to lessen the insanity... which it didn't) and now I've abandoned everything and settled on something that's impossible to explain and I haven't seen anywhere. Sometimes... cheap builds just aren't cheap builds and it seems eternal suffering 'just because' is the way of our people.
I eagerly await progress.
Ok so after reading Stuart Yaniger’s review for Audioexpress for the Arylic Up2Stream Amp
wireless streaming amp board:
(Thank you @SY )
I feel the relevant performance measurements are here-
So let’s call that 30W@8 ohm power and THD for 5Khz at 0.3%.
Which is an order magnitude better than the Sure JAB5 (0.3 % vs 1% = -10dB), albeit with slightly 3dB less power (50W vs 100W)
Reference:
https://audioxpress.com/article/fresh-from-the-bench-arylic-audio-up2stream-amp-v4
Here’s some other important measurements.
OK so it’s no high end amp, but for $80 you get an app driven, wifi or BT audio streaming solution with DSP and TPA3116 amp for 50Wx2 (4 ohm)
To configure the actual DSP you need to buy the ACP Workbench software. ($20)
https://www.arylic.com/products/acp-work-bench-audio-effect-tool
Which is a bit of a pain to be honest. They should offer it as a free download- because you can’t do/click anything if nothing is connected. I will be feeding this back.
Anyway, the software does not work on my PC, for some reason. So I await tech support. In the meantime I managed to install on another PC. So there goes my single use license. As I said, a pain.
Now there’s a here’s a current 20% sale over at Arylic.com and they offer free shipping to the remote isle of Oz, so the price is right, for experimentation.
So I’ve ordered a pair of the Plate 2.1 amps-
that’s ~US$80 for a plate amp that has twin TI TPA3116 for 3 channels- 2x50W + 100W (4 ohm), USB software control (+$20), wifi or Ethernet or BT control (free phone app app download), optical in (configurable for output), as well as 3.5mm in. Oh and some hardware has treble/knobs for end users to play with.
But no PSU (24V) is included - BYO or buy one from Arylic’s convoluted website.
One last thing I know about this plate amp is that it’s leaky- so air/noise will go into the amp and through the back panel. So beware. This was discovered by Marius in his sponsored review:
Again I’ve fed that back to Arylic- please improve your seals, or offer. a backbox for your plate amps (MiniDSP does)
@hifijim
Let me know if this is useful for you, or
whether you’d like me to fork this thread.
I’m purely exploring the capabilities of this plate amp as a wireless enabled DSP driven 3 way amplifier use in a hacked multi room solution for stereo sound. (L channel to one plate amp, R channel to other plate amp).
If that doesn’t work it’s just a Bluetooth speaker amp. For that I might start a new thread.
No new speaker design (big backlog I need to complete)[/USER]
wireless streaming amp board:
(Thank you @SY )
I feel the relevant performance measurements are here-
So let’s call that 30W@8 ohm power and THD for 5Khz at 0.3%.
Which is an order magnitude better than the Sure JAB5 (0.3 % vs 1% = -10dB), albeit with slightly 3dB less power (50W vs 100W)
Reference:
https://audioxpress.com/article/fresh-from-the-bench-arylic-audio-up2stream-amp-v4
Here’s some other important measurements.
OK so it’s no high end amp, but for $80 you get an app driven, wifi or BT audio streaming solution with DSP and TPA3116 amp for 50Wx2 (4 ohm)
To configure the actual DSP you need to buy the ACP Workbench software. ($20)
https://www.arylic.com/products/acp-work-bench-audio-effect-tool
Which is a bit of a pain to be honest. They should offer it as a free download- because you can’t do/click anything if nothing is connected. I will be feeding this back.
Anyway, the software does not work on my PC, for some reason. So I await tech support. In the meantime I managed to install on another PC. So there goes my single use license. As I said, a pain.
Now there’s a here’s a current 20% sale over at Arylic.com and they offer free shipping to the remote isle of Oz, so the price is right, for experimentation.
So I’ve ordered a pair of the Plate 2.1 amps-
that’s ~US$80 for a plate amp that has twin TI TPA3116 for 3 channels- 2x50W + 100W (4 ohm), USB software control (+$20), wifi or Ethernet or BT control (free phone app app download), optical in (configurable for output), as well as 3.5mm in. Oh and some hardware has treble/knobs for end users to play with.
But no PSU (24V) is included - BYO or buy one from Arylic’s convoluted website.
One last thing I know about this plate amp is that it’s leaky- so air/noise will go into the amp and through the back panel. So beware. This was discovered by Marius in his sponsored review:
Again I’ve fed that back to Arylic- please improve your seals, or offer. a backbox for your plate amps (MiniDSP does)
@hifijim
Let me know if this is useful for you, or
whether you’d like me to fork this thread.
I’m purely exploring the capabilities of this plate amp as a wireless enabled DSP driven 3 way amplifier use in a hacked multi room solution for stereo sound. (L channel to one plate amp, R channel to other plate amp).
If that doesn’t work it’s just a Bluetooth speaker amp. For that I might start a new thread.
No new speaker design (big backlog I need to complete)[/USER]
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Yes I am curious about how that would work. In theory, this is a 3 channel amp and could be used for a 3-way speaker. 100W +50W +50W would be enough power. It would probably work well with wired analog inputs. It would depend on how much DSP capability/flexibility it has.
With bluetooth pairing, I suspect that each plate amp would get paired separately. How would we send the R/L signal to the R/L speakers? I don't even know how to force my laptop/phone to stream an audio signal to two bluetooth devices simultaneaously... is it possible? Or maybe the Arylic amps can be linked together so one serves as the primary and the other is joined... and they sort out the R/L signal themselves...
Bluetooth capability is not very important to me. I hardly ever use it. Is it possible to BT stream 24 bit 96k audio without loss? I don't know much about it...