Linear scales - look for DRO for milling machine.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12477288...1wCUkl9730FphZwE6rjmrBYDTGiL|tkp:BFBM7qqTg5Vj
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12477288...1wCUkl9730FphZwE6rjmrBYDTGiL|tkp:BFBM7qqTg5Vj
Thanks for all the links guys. Bear in mind that I am not familiar with the programming required with most of the electrical systems. My workload is pretty hefty, so I won't be able to learn and implement any of that in a hurry. That's where the collaboration needs to come in
I have ordered the machine that I linked earlier, as well as a pair of the CJ369 pro rangefinders with 0.001mm accuracy. I also have M8 and M10 threaded rods and bearings in stock, as well as nuts and such. I also have a Creality CR6 MAX printer and a small CNC and laser router. I'll get started on a twin hand dial system and see if anyone is interested in attaching stepper motors to those
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005782662511.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.379b38daLscEnH&mp=1
I have ordered the machine that I linked earlier, as well as a pair of the CJ369 pro rangefinders with 0.001mm accuracy. I also have M8 and M10 threaded rods and bearings in stock, as well as nuts and such. I also have a Creality CR6 MAX printer and a small CNC and laser router. I'll get started on a twin hand dial system and see if anyone is interested in attaching stepper motors to those
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005782662511.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.379b38daLscEnH&mp=1
Randy, rather than mucking about with all that stuff, make a track guide for your hand held circular saw its only two bits of wood glue n nails.
MDF will work fine
MDF will work fine
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Hey man, these are just what my local faster shop had on hand. I have no idea about the pitch and will have to check with them. Anyway, threaded rods might be a no-go. The biggest problem is that they are slow. Just messing with g-clamps is annoying enough. I don't think I want to hand turn 1m!
Instead, I propose a cam-lock fence that runs on 10mm indents and mounts the rangefinder pair on a face that can be adjusted 10mm via a hand dial at each rangefinder. So a two piece fence with a 10mm adjustable face. Once the saw is here, I'll take some measurements of the table and draw up the table extension, fence, rails and such
That's exactly what I am trying to escape. Keep an eye out on the progress of my bass amp to see why. I don't think I can explain any better with words than I already have
A couple more things to consider:
1) The CJ 369 range finder has a specified accuracy of 0.001M, not 0.001mm, and that's 1000 times worse. So it's 1mm accurate, and usually when a spec like that is published it really means +/- 1mm so that translates into real world error of 2mm, at best. That device is really made for measuring large things like rooms. Personally, I doubt it can even do 2mm simply based on the cost. I do have experience with precision optical measuring sensors in my job.
2) What ever mechanical components you select for the actuator should rated at "zero back-lash", otherwise you will compound errors when ever a change of direction is made. If a component does not specify "zero back-lash" or give a maximum numerical value, then it will likely be a problem. This can be worked around if you have a precise measuring system attached directly to the fence that actually moves.
Firstly, thank you for sensibly pointing out my error with the spec and how it limits the use of the rangefinder. It's a good thing that you pointed this out as it has allowed me to iron out another problem as was the case with the threaded rod, backlash and such. I had a smoke and pondered how to solve this, and I have a solution that again simplifies and tightens things up
Spring lock fence and track with 10mm indents, to 3D printed accuracy, rangefinders mounted on fence to locate to nearest 10mm indent. The fence has a spring-loaded face with space behind for 3D printed 1-9mm shims. Again quick, clean and exactly repeatable every single time. Accurate to the exact 1mm and depending on your 3D printer, a set of even thinner sub-shims are possible. In my case, I can do a set a that is 1-9mm and a set that is 0.1-0.9mm. That lets me set the most exact fence possible that is again repeatable to 0,1mm accuracy
Does this make sense? Any holes in my tentative design? What do you guys think?
No, that's an error of at most 1mm. Error is the absolute difference between measured and actual.
I think a rugged DRO will be quite enough, they are good to 10 microns these days for even the low to mid quality ones, and can be more than $200 for a 3-D version.
They can be used as linear scales later if PLC is installed.
There was a (now defunct) company called Tree in America, famous for their milling machines, their lowly knee type machine was coverted to CNC, worth taking a look at the concept, as it was a modification of a manual design, not a new ground up design.
Bridgeport shifted their ram turret milling machine production to Taiwan, several compamies make clones in Taiwan, some are really good quality. Digital Read Out (DRO) is a common option on those, and the table size should be in the range for the saw you intend to make, the parts are very easily available.
Bear in mind that gear quality is very important, wear and play will play havoc with repeat accuracy, DRO lets you be free of that hassle.
I have seen cheap cast / mild steel gears in some machines, with large gaps betweem teeth, instead of forged steel gears made on hobbing machines... a trip to a vehicle scrap yard should yield lots of well made gears, at a low price.
They can be used as linear scales later if PLC is installed.
There was a (now defunct) company called Tree in America, famous for their milling machines, their lowly knee type machine was coverted to CNC, worth taking a look at the concept, as it was a modification of a manual design, not a new ground up design.
Bridgeport shifted their ram turret milling machine production to Taiwan, several compamies make clones in Taiwan, some are really good quality. Digital Read Out (DRO) is a common option on those, and the table size should be in the range for the saw you intend to make, the parts are very easily available.
Bear in mind that gear quality is very important, wear and play will play havoc with repeat accuracy, DRO lets you be free of that hassle.
I have seen cheap cast / mild steel gears in some machines, with large gaps betweem teeth, instead of forged steel gears made on hobbing machines... a trip to a vehicle scrap yard should yield lots of well made gears, at a low price.
Naresh, any programming of such units is beyond me and I think that we can get very accurate and quick results without resorting to fabricating any gear based system and helicals like threaded rods are way too slow and can bind if sped up
Having a 100mm adjustment on the fence face, set with mounted digital veneer calipers against the blade for say 70mm and then moving the fence back to the first 100mm indent will give accurate, quick and exactly repeatable cuts
Thing about collaboration is that feel free to add an electronic mod if you have the programming skills
The seller is refusing to ship due to my being in a remote regional area. Waiting for Ali to step in and cancel the order so that I may rebuy from another dealer. This time from an AU stockist on Ebay
I think it's high time I added a router table to my tool set too and the same fence can work on that too
Laser cutters
This is something I would like to learn more about. Looking for a DIY or commercial design that can cut 18mm fairly quickly and is not over AUD1k. Does such a thing exist?
Having a 100mm adjustment on the fence face, set with mounted digital veneer calipers against the blade for say 70mm and then moving the fence back to the first 100mm indent will give accurate, quick and exactly repeatable cuts
Thing about collaboration is that feel free to add an electronic mod if you have the programming skills
The seller is refusing to ship due to my being in a remote regional area. Waiting for Ali to step in and cancel the order so that I may rebuy from another dealer. This time from an AU stockist on Ebay
I think it's high time I added a router table to my tool set too and the same fence can work on that too
Laser cutters
This is something I would like to learn more about. Looking for a DIY or commercial design that can cut 18mm fairly quickly and is not over AUD1k. Does such a thing exist?
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18 mm steel is a lot more power than 18 mm wood.
Member 'haiqu' got a good deal on a used machine, IIRC, but freight to you could be a deal breaker.
Calipers tend to shift around, and many digital ones switch off after a short time to save power.
Which was the reason for me to recommend DRO, those have nice big displays...
Member 'haiqu' got a good deal on a used machine, IIRC, but freight to you could be a deal breaker.
Calipers tend to shift around, and many digital ones switch off after a short time to save power.
Which was the reason for me to recommend DRO, those have nice big displays...
New 8' x 4' Chinese laser machines (for steel) are in the $5000 range and up for brand new machines, imported and installed, I think they are good to 10 mm.
For wood, you need a CO2 laser with the ultra pure gas inside alone costing you about AUS$2000 for 10 kilos...machine price is above US$100k for a new Chinese one, German is about 4x that...
For wood, you need a CO2 laser with the ultra pure gas inside alone costing you about AUS$2000 for 10 kilos...machine price is above US$100k for a new Chinese one, German is about 4x that...
I starting using pro panel saws in my late teens when I started manning the machines at Creative Furniture in Sydney around 1993. This was a large scale operation, with the amount of MDF and chipboard getting cut up and routed to the same designs over and over as the store outlets restocked. From your comments, I can see that you two guys truly do not comprehend the implications of reproducing exactly to spec every time and are set in ways that do not involve a mix of handcrafting and automated machine work
Harry, you are local. Show me how easy it to cut this with your ruler and have it marry up to the printed parts without any stupid sanding or planing. Would you care to demonstrate how the proposals presented here to rethink fence design using readily available DIY parts is a waste of time? I can order a board out to you
Now if you see any merit to the tool that I am trying to build, how about spending that same energy on some collaboration
This is from my Tiny 40hz sub thread and regarding the 20hz tune TL that I call Kittybar TLc
Naresh, thank you for that. Please help me make sense of this module, then? Looks like it can handle 18mm in woody boards in 1 to 2 passes. Could this not be built into a DIY slide saw for straight cuts or fitted to a cheaper engraver frame of about 1mx1m which are around AUD500
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...id=202401060258141048104173425850002782742_13
Keeping accuracy on "box" making is mainly about work flow and a well tuned saw, keeping the cut width the same for all pieces except for the top/bottom(in your case) and cutting to length by using stop blocks on a cross cut sled(or the stop on your slider tablesaw if ye is rich). Using stop blocks you start slightly oversize then trim to size using shims to move your piece over until you get the exact measurements... being able to measure long lengths is the tricky bit.
Building speakers an accuracy of .25mm is well and truly good enough even .5mm is good enough in most cases.
Even if you did get to .25mm accuracy cutting the wood your 3D print would probably not be as accurate without prototyping several interations to allow for warp and shrinkage... sanding theres always sanding if blending things smooth.
Building speakers an accuracy of .25mm is well and truly good enough even .5mm is good enough in most cases.
Even if you did get to .25mm accuracy cutting the wood your 3D print would probably not be as accurate without prototyping several interations to allow for warp and shrinkage... sanding theres always sanding if blending things smooth.
What is all this about overcutting and trimming and all that too? Sounds like bad craftsmanship when you can take more effort to setup a system to get the right cuts first time
I work to fixed 0.4mm width and 0.10mm height accuracy. Can you hand cut the first time to mate with that accuracy? I dont think so
You guys are wrong, my project saw is totally worth it man
I work to fixed 0.4mm width and 0.10mm height accuracy. Can you hand cut the first time to mate with that accuracy? I dont think so
You guys are wrong, my project saw is totally worth it man