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PhiDAC hex kits with pre-built filters

Hi Jim. Nice looking build you have there. Wondering where you got that adapter board to connect the u.fl cable to the I2S in puts on the PhiDeca? I have a similar set up going from Ian's FifoPi to a PhiDecaDac and would like to use the u.fl outputs but haven't been able to locate a source for such an adapter.


Busy old day today and to be fair its done my swede in a bit! Trying to fathom it all out and keep it neat. Still a long way yet but getting there.
Got the Fifo u.fl rigged up to the dac. This rig was all 'Ian Canada ' but I've taken his ess dual mono dac out and I'm using the digital front end to feed the Phideca. Powered by various Salas shunts and Ian batteries. Along with Andrea Mori entry level 22mhz clock.
Hope to hear it all soon! View attachment 1022588 View attachment 1022589
 
On filters, I'd say go for the 7th order one if you're not short of funds. If you are short of funds then go instead for a Kubelik kit.

I'm not really sure what you mean by 'Balances' so could you explain? Do you mean your amp has a balanced input? The Purifi amp does as far as I'm aware but normally you'll have a preamp between your DAC and the poweramp to give source selection and volume control. Noob questions are more than welcome.

To go ahead with purchasing have a look at the first post of this thread.
Yes, my amp is balance. I haven't used a preamp, because my current setup is computer>dac>amp. Will I have issues with this dac in that arrangement?

Ok, apparently I haven't posted enough to unlock the PM function on this site. Is there a way to ask you some followup question regarding what I'll need and set up an order without personal messaging?
 
Busy old day today and to be fair its done my swede in a bit! Trying to fathom it all out and keep it neat. Still a long way yet but getting there.
Got the Fifo u.fl rigged up to the dac. This rig was all 'Ian Canada ' but I've taken his ess dual mono dac out and I'm using the digital front end to feed the Phideca. Powered by various Salas shunts and Ian batteries. Along with Andrea Mori entry level 22mhz clock.
Hope to hear it all soon! View attachment 1022588 View attachment 1022589
:)
Wherever I look, there is JimK04.
Either I am following along very similar lines or you are in every single thread.
 
Your PSU boards each need an AC input which is low voltage (typically 15-18VAC). Definitely do not connect them directly to mains, that would be a quick way to electrocute yourself.

An example of the kind of transformer (not the one to actually order) I have in mind is this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32707566410.html

You'll note it has two isolated secondary windings, seeing as they show the offload voltage I'd choose the 2*15V version (the one shown in the link is 18V). There are two primary windings and those need to be wired in parallel for 115V operation.

This particular trafo is a PCB mount one, there are chassis mount versions which will work just as well but I wasn't able to find one on Aliexpress with 115V primary.
Hi Richard, I am wondering if this type of power supply for the PhiDecaDac will be OK to use. I am considering it because it uses 120V AC as the input and the 12V DC would power both the DAC and the input board.
I look forward to your reply.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJKHT1...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

12V 10A Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply,120W 100-240V AC to DC, for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project, LED Strip Lights, 3D Printer​

Brand: LEDLightsWorld
 
No, I'm afraid that's only 12V output - even too few volts if you omitted the regulator boards you've already purchased.
I am not planning on using the two regulator boards I purchased. I messed up the 15v one when I put 115v AC to it not knowing I needed a separate transformer for the AC to reduce it.
I want to know if this type of PSU would be OK to use let's say I use a 15v one... I thought the PhiDecaDac had a range from 12v to 15v...? So, would a 15v unit like this work and not be too noisy to run the DAC or is there a reason I need to use an AC step down transformer to run a 15v PSU? I could use a 15v and a 10v for the input board.
I really appreciate your help as this is new territory for me.
 
That type power supply will work but as it will generate heaps of noise, it won't be likely to sound very good. As a secondary issue, it's vastly over-powered for the job. That means its likely to be noisier than a similar power supply with lower output power. The DAC itself consumes in the region of 2W so there really isn't any reason to use a 100W PSU to feed it.

The reason for going the route of a transformer with regulator modules is to get a relatively low-noise power supply. Low noise is a prerequisite for getting the best sound.
 
That type power supply will work but as it will generate heaps of noise, it won't be likely to sound very good. As a secondary issue, it's vastly over-powered for the job. That means its likely to be noisier than a similar power supply with lower output power. The DAC itself consumes in the region of 2W so there really isn't any reason to use a 100W PSU to feed it.

The reason for going the route of a transformer with regulator modules is to get a relatively low-noise power supply. Low noise is a prerequisite for getting the best sound.
OK, thank you, you answered my question and I will go back to the use of an ac transformer to get down to 12-18v ac to run the two PSUs. One for the DAC and one for the input board. Am I correct that the DAC can use 12-15 volts dc or does it need to be 15v? In other words, could I use a PSU like the one Deb K used, the AMB Sigma 11 and run 12v out to the DAC and input board? The input board says it has a range of 5v to 12v. Does the DAC have the range to handle a 12v supply or does it need 15v?
Thanks again
Don
 
In relation to the power supply to Deca DAC, you're not correct that it can work at 12V input. 15V-18V would be the working range of input power supply voltage. You're right about the input board needing 5-12V, that's why it needs its own PSU as it cannot run direct from the DAC supply voltage as that's too high.
 
In relation to the power supply to Deca DAC, you're not correct that it can work at 12V input. 15V-18V would be the working range of input power supply voltage. You're right about the input board needing 5-12V, that's why it needs its own PSU as it cannot run direct from the DAC supply voltage as that's too high.
Richard, thank you, I am much closer to where I am trying to get to now. I will get an r-core transformer and replace the 15v that I damaged by applying 115v ac to it. I am finally getting close, with your support!
 
Richard, thank you, I am much closer to where I am trying to get to now. I will get an r-core transformer and replace the 15v that I damaged by applying 115v ac to it. I am finally getting close, with your support!
Richard, I have tried unsuccessfully to find another 15v output PSU for the DAC like the one you sent me, (which I damaged). Can I purchase another one from you or can you provide me with the necessary information as to part number and place I can purchase it?
Thank You
Don
 
Hi Richard, just wanted to share another positive experience. I sent my extra DecaDAC with 3rd order filter to my dad for him to audition. He had an SMSL DAC, SU-8 I think, and he was completely satisfied with it until he heard the DecaDAC. Now has has to upgrade ;) So I'll be ordering another kit, most likely Celibidache.

Is it possible to get USB, optical and bluetooth inputs without getting too complicated? I seem to recall you might have had an I2S switcher board available to make something like that work?
 
Hi Ben - that's excellent to hear, thanks for your encouragement to your dad! I'm not aware of any board at the moment which combines all three of those inputs. The best solution I have at present is get three boards - USB, S/PDIF-Toslink switcher and BT with S/PDIF output. The S/PDIF switcher board has two S/PDIF inputs so one can be dedicated to the BT board.
 
Do you mean this sort of thing? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001814644495.html I can only suggest go for the lowest resistance pot you can find (10k maximum) as pots add noise. I don't have direct experience of this kind of product.

I am planning to design my own remote volume control using an autotransformer, I have made a start on my blog : https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...tentially-volume-control.386375/#post-7025763 . Of course I can't say what timescale it'll take form over.