Hi all,
Am hoping to run two custom built (not by me) subs in parallel whilst bridging my amp so i have enough power. Problem is, the person who built them just put basic NLT4MP connectors on the back so there's no built in "thru" option for parallel. i have been reading through forums and the amp manual and think i've worked it out but want to double check before wiring it up.
Equipment:
2 x Fane Colossus 18XB drivers (1 per cabinet) (8ohm)
1 x Crown xti 4000
the crown speakon outputs are wired in parallel to the binding posts so my plan is:
1x cable with speakon connector wired 1+/2+ plugged in to CH1 of amp speakon. this then plugged into one cabinet wired at other end with 1+/1-
1x cable wired across the red binding posts and plugged into other cabinet with 1+/1-
in my head this should now give me 3200W spread across both subs, allowing me to run them up to their full 1000W rms.
Please let me know if this'll work and whether there is a better way to do this.
In the long term i plan to cut larger holes in the back of the cabinets and install proper speakon plates with through outputs. Photos below for reference
Am hoping to run two custom built (not by me) subs in parallel whilst bridging my amp so i have enough power. Problem is, the person who built them just put basic NLT4MP connectors on the back so there's no built in "thru" option for parallel. i have been reading through forums and the amp manual and think i've worked it out but want to double check before wiring it up.
Equipment:
2 x Fane Colossus 18XB drivers (1 per cabinet) (8ohm)
1 x Crown xti 4000
the crown speakon outputs are wired in parallel to the binding posts so my plan is:
1x cable with speakon connector wired 1+/2+ plugged in to CH1 of amp speakon. this then plugged into one cabinet wired at other end with 1+/1-
1x cable wired across the red binding posts and plugged into other cabinet with 1+/1-
in my head this should now give me 3200W spread across both subs, allowing me to run them up to their full 1000W rms.
Please let me know if this'll work and whether there is a better way to do this.
In the long term i plan to cut larger holes in the back of the cabinets and install proper speakon plates with through outputs. Photos below for reference
So your woofers claim 1000WRMS each, which is already iffy/optimistic, and you plan on feeding each 1600WRMS.
In subwoofer duty which guarantees constant drive all the time or most of it.
What could go wrong?
Serious, I suggest you drive each woofer with one power amp channel, no bridging.
They will last.
In subwoofer duty which guarantees constant drive all the time or most of it.
What could go wrong?
Serious, I suggest you drive each woofer with one power amp channel, no bridging.
They will last.
if i run each on one channel i only get 650W per cab which means the amp is much more likely to be clipping as ill have no headroom. surely as long as im careful with how much signal i feed the subs this wont be an issue. (if i just kept the level control at half for example?)
Wasn't planning on being stupid and just running them at full power all night.
Wasn't planning on being stupid and just running them at full power all night.
The amp has output limiters so clipping really isn't a concern. And the bridged output is only a little over 3dB higher which isn't nothing but it's not a lot more in real use. Give this and bridged a try and hear for yourself.
No, turning down the level controls on the amp does not offer ANY protection as it only takes a signal increase somewhere else in the signal chain to defeat it. Set the limiters in the amp to activate just below full power(0.5dB), that is real protection.
Be serious now... you are going to push the subs as hard as possible... everybody does.
Any yes your plan for bridged operation will work as expected, check that both subs are operating in the same polarity by flipping the pins that are connected to the binding posts while playing tunes at a lower level.. you will know it is correct when you hear an increase in bass when the second sub is connected.
When somebody asks about the best way to jump from a cliff the proper answer is "don't", not suggesting "how to".
Proper speaker to amp power ratio is at least 50% more, so 650W amp into a "claimed" 1000W woofer is correct, the opposite is wild disregard for safety.
Even with limiters, that power amp has what it takes to destroy your speakers.
"I will set volume to 5" means exactly nothing as far as safety.
thanks conanski for the reply, really helpful.
The amp also has built in limiters that can be set to -3, -6 or -12db, is there a need to put these on if i've got limiters earlier in the chain?
thanks for clarifying this, still been wrapping my head around gain staging.. when i was replying yesterday forgot i had already worked out this at an earlier point and set limiters in my signal chain to accomodate for this. before the amp i have everything running through a behringer ultradrive which has built in limiters, i spent ages on this and other forums trying to fully understand the process of setting these right and converting dbu to db etc. have attached a photo of some caculations which (from what i could work out?) should limit the signal so that it keeps the subs safe. was planning to set to -20/21 db to err on the safe side
The amp also has built in limiters that can be set to -3, -6 or -12db, is there a need to put these on if i've got limiters earlier in the chain?
appreciate the honesty:') am someone who always errs on the side of caution so am hoping to find a way to do this safely.. and thanks for the tip about the polarityBe serious now... you are going to push the subs as hard as possible... everybody does.
any chance someone can verify whether this limiter set up would protect the subs? from my limited understanding of this, the signal coming into the amp would therefore always be within safe levels for the subs, allowing me to use the amp level knob as more of a "volume". hence my confusion above^^ cause i forgot i'd already set the limiters on the DSP