Electronic speed control for turntable

A BLDC motor is the wrong motor to use in a TT, you need to PMSM motor. BLDC motors have a trapezoidal back EMF which causes high torque ripple. PMSM motors have sinusoidal BEMF and when controlled properly have very low torque ripple. Doing this from scratch I would use a microcontroller someathing like an STM32 and use FOC. STM have all the libraries and hardware to do this out of the box.

The motor in the Technics SP10mk2 has sinusoidal BEMF so is PMSM not BLDC.
The Anaheim BLDC motors have sinusoidal BEMF and produce very little torque ripple (see attached); they are extremely smooth and quiet compared to a PM AC synch motor. The RC controllers drive a BLDC motor as a DC motor and uses block commutation (trapezoidal) so they will have torque ripple and the speed will slow under load. The speed is determined by the DC voltage and the load. When driven this way, you will need an encoder attached to the motor or accurate speed control.

The SG4 (and RichB's solution) drives the BLDC motor as a 3 phase AC synch motor so the speed is determined by the drive frequency and is synchronous so it does not slow under load. The SG4 thread has links to a 3 phase amplifier that will drive one of two different Anaheim motors; it only works with those motors. If you attempt any other motor solution you would be on your own.

AA motor back EMF.jpg
 
CDIL makes chips for energy saving fan controllers, those are really 22W BLDC motors...
CDIL is an Indian company, the same or similar part numbers will be found in many other suppliers' catalogs.
So those can be used for turn tables.

Your results may vary, but this is an analog solution. no need for programming.

Industrial servo motors can be driven at up to 700 VDC, for maximum speed or load. Those can be PLC or chip controlled using a feedback system.

I have no ties to CDIL, here in India there is a trend for energy saving ceiling fans, the older fans with heavy windings ran 65W, newer ones are 45W, really old ones ran 100W.
The BLDC fans run at only 22W.
Money saved, and they are quite popular with ladies, as they are immediately, visibly, new and latest looking...

Also, lot of complaints about failure were heard, from people in areas with voltage issues.
Be careful about that.

A little incoherent ( I do not consume alcohol, or other intoxicants), but basically you can use simple controls if needed. And go exotic from there.

I have access to a Thorens table, not very impressed.
External wall wart SMPS, and the unit was made by Dual in Eastern Europe for Thorens.

There are different ways to control a TT motor if needed, above was a sample
Feedback about this post is welcome...

You can basically use a BLDC controller for TT motors, in sum, if the motors are of that type.
 
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I do prefer DD turntables so much so that I even bought an hoverboard to test one of the motors that turned out to be a big failure because the motor (BDLC) has small neodymium magnets that causes steeps like a stepper motor.
You live and you learn...
Ahhh I think you need a Sensored Motor with a Sensored ESC - that will give you a very good start stop, Also some ESC like Castle MambaX have programablitiy to set the starting Torque ( punch ) and Breaking strenght. though these ESC are expensive a Set of Motor with ESC is around $250.
Other ESC + Motor Combo ( sensored ) is hobby wing ( chinese ) but many of the Brands are using the stock ESC from this firm
Look up Amain hobbies or Hobbywing website or LHS
 
The Anaheim BLDC motors have sinusoidal BEMF and produce very little torque ripple (see attached); they are extremely smooth and quiet compared to a PM AC synch motor. The RC controllers drive a BLDC motor as a DC motor and uses block commutation (trapezoidal) so they will have torque ripple and the speed will slow under load. The speed is determined by the DC voltage and the load. When driven this way, you will need an encoder attached to the motor or accurate speed control.

The SG4 (and RichB's solution) drives the BLDC motor as a 3 phase AC synch motor so the speed is determined by the drive frequency and is synchronous so it does not slow under load. The SG4 thread has links to a 3 phase amplifier that will drive one of two different Anaheim motors; it only works with those motors. If you attempt any other motor solution you would be on your own.

If it has sinusoidal BEMF it's a PMSM motor NOT BLDC by definition

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I'm done with testing I went online and bought a EDS1000 with complete wiring and it runs like a champ, steady and quiet and the investment is not that different from starting from scratch with any time of motor (DC, BLDC,PMSM or anything else) and controller combination.
Wait a minute I didn't started this discussion how about the author (sid8580) and his problem/question ?
 
Don't tell me, tell Anaheim Automation; their website must be wrong.

It's BLDC. It has hall sensors. AA sells BLDC controllers to run their motors. Not all BLDC motors have trapezoidal BEMF.
I guess STMicroelectronics are wrong too., 19:50 goes over the differences between PMSM and BLDC.

I got involved in this thread as I'm in the design phase of an STM32 FOC project to drive a Technics SP10mk2 motor for a DIY direct drive turntable . If you used the STM libraries and selected BLDC the library would use 6step not FOC and you would have huge torque ripple.

 
I guess STMicroelectronics are wrong too., 19:50 goes over the differences between PMSM and BLDC.

I got involved in this thread as I'm in the design phase of an STM32 FOC project to drive a Technics SP10mk2 motor for a DIY direct drive turntable . If you used the STM libraries and selected BLDC the library would use 6step not FOC and you would have huge torque ripple.

So what is your point? Because STM labels it a certain way in their software, that creates a definition for the entire industry? BLDC means "brushless DC". It means the windings are electrically commutated instead of mechanically commutated with brushes (sometimes a BLDC motor is called an "EC" motor). How you choose to drive the windings when you electrically commutate them is up to you. You can do block commutation, modified sinewave or sinewave drive. You can drive 2 phases at a time or 3. FOC does not necessarily mean sinewave drive. Sinewave drive does not necessarily mean synchronous drive. The drive method does not define the type of motor that it is. It is a BLDC motor because it doesn't have brushes.

This is why I'm reluctant to post on this blasted website. You can't post anything on DIYAudio without some pedantic nutjob arguing that up is down or that black is white. Call the AA motors what ever you want to. Maybe they are PMSM motors that identify as BLDC; if you mis-define them, it makes you a bigot.

I'm done posting here.
 
Even the 'inverter' air conditioners and fridges use BLDC motors, so do servo drives in injection molding machines and elevators for example.

The basic point is how to control a TT, so you need fine tuning, which means feedback from a sensor...strobes were manual feedback.

So if a photo sensor through a printed plastic sheet shaped like a circle / wheel (very common in ink jet printers), or a Hall sensor, or any other device which senses the RPM accurately is used, the control circuit for the motor should be able to process the information and correct the speed when needed.

That is all, no need to argue about motor design or drives.
You decide what you have, and whether to modify that or build from new.
Many approaches are possible, and few of us have the ability to design and build a custom motor, you have to choose what is available.