10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor

[xrk971]

Actually, had to buy them from Amazon for a premium, $89ea. I couldn’t wait until end of December.

The shortages in drivers and electronic components is impacting a lot of stuff.

 

[xrk971]

Some more progress on the set that is going to Hawaii. Painting is done.

 

[meanie]

Thanks, X for sharing, really inspires me to finish up my set, it's been too long seating in storage as stacked plywood.

 

[xrk971]

Crossovers completed:

 

[zman01]

X,

That's a really nice speaker coming together.

Meanie,

Time to get the RS225 TL FAST speaker up and running - your lovely amps are waiting.

 

[Plott]

Hi X,
they look really great, thanks for sharing.

 

[xrk971]

These are looking really fantastic. I am excited for the two people they are going to when they hear them for the first time.

 

[Plott]

Is the bevelling of the edges just a design element or should it act against coloration and therefore a "must" or recommendation at least?

 

[xrk971]

The Duratex all black treatmet reminds me of something from Star Wars or maybe the monolith from 2001?

The triple beveled top front corners look really cool in black.

 

[Vunce]

The TL cabinets are coming out awesome!
There will soon be a couple of very happy new owners

 

[xrk971]

Yes, they will be pleased I am sure. The second set will be finished in a satin finish pigmented black stained lacquer - more "piano black" like i suppose. The first set (shown above) has been treated inside and out with two coats of Boracoat to prevent termite damage as that is an issue on the Islands. Next step is to install the crossovers, add some stuffing, install drivers and binding posts, and feet. Then do a 1 week music playing 24/7 break in period to allow the paint to fully cure and the driver suspensions to loosen up. A final DATS impedance sweep to fine tune the stuffing density. Then box her up for shipment via FedEx. I hope the issues FedEx has been having with labor shortages does not cause some crazy hike in the rate to ship to Hawaii (already a pretty penny).

 

[Kokanee]

Can the front baffle be made the full 10" to cover the edges of the sides, top, & bottom, or does it have to be sandwiched in between the panels.

If the above OK, I would assume that the depth of the side panels would be reduced by 3/4" so as to keep the same internal ID's and volume.

Thanks,

MM

 

[Plott]

I am planning to make my speaker that way. The front baffle will be 10" wide up to the opening. For this I will cut the side panels 3/4" narrower along the length of the front baffle. But I will put/glue the top edge of the front baffle under the top plate's front edge.

 

[Kokanee]

Thanks Plott,

Mine will be similar except that all the front edge's of the box will be covered by the baffle. When you look at the front of the speaker you will see only the full length baffle without any horizontal or vertical grains from the other edges. Basically a box made to ID's required for volume, with the baffle glued to the front edges.

 

[xrk971]

Either way is fine as long as overall exterior width is 10in and internal width of TL is maintained per the plans (8.5in wide).

 

[Plott]

Yes, it was my first thought too, but I don't know what the slightly increased volume (width*height*3/4") would cause.

Edit: thanks for the clarification X, we overlapped.

 

[Plott]

Hi X,
in some earlier builds there are stiffening rods at certain places in the box. Are they required or just nice to have, as you didn´t use them (?) in your last build.
Thanks in advance.

 

[xrk971]

No added bracing needed if made of 3/4in or 18mm thick material. There was bracing added on the large back wall on an earlier one since it had a removable back panel. It does not hurt to add it as long as it does not obstruct the TL channel flow.

 

[Plott]

Thank you!

 

[Plott]

I just should collect my questions
X, is there a required amount for the stuffing? How dense should it be? Or is it a question of the personal taste?
Thanks again.