Thanks for the info X and Zman,
It seems like the door is wide open for choices for the full ranger. I assume it does not matter if the FR is 4 ohm or 8 ohm?. I am sure like most folks, I look for the best bang for the buck, but in this case, from all the comments, I may be influenced by the higher quality(ie sensitivity, dB, frequency, etc) and hence the higher price tag.
The only caveat to the above: my old ears are not as good as they used to be, so may not be able to appreciate the higher frequencies that others may hear. tough decision!!
MM
It seems like the door is wide open for choices for the full ranger. I assume it does not matter if the FR is 4 ohm or 8 ohm?. I am sure like most folks, I look for the best bang for the buck, but in this case, from all the comments, I may be influenced by the higher quality(ie sensitivity, dB, frequency, etc) and hence the higher price tag.
The only caveat to the above: my old ears are not as good as they used to be, so may not be able to appreciate the higher frequencies that others may hear. tough decision!!
MM
So, the B80 are here too, everything is collected now. I could start, if... yes, if I could get the wood parts. I asked about 10 carpenters here in Vienna and neighborhood - no birch ply is available... so project is on hold.
The driver needs to be 8ohm to be compatible with the crossover.
Some people have used non Baltic birch plywood or even MDF with veneer. But BB is best for durability.
Some people have used non Baltic birch plywood or even MDF with veneer. But BB is best for durability.
Hi X,
Is the Xover in the 1st post " Transient Perfect 1st order" dated Jan 11, 2018 for the 10F/8424 & RS225-8 Fast REF Monitor the one to use for parts ordering for the TL, or is there one for the TL that I am not aware of?
MM
Is the Xover in the 1st post " Transient Perfect 1st order" dated Jan 11, 2018 for the 10F/8424 & RS225-8 Fast REF Monitor the one to use for parts ordering for the TL, or is there one for the TL that I am not aware of?
MM
Same XO for sealed and TL. The BOM has a typo. You need 6x 2.2uF caps as two are used for the 4.4uF value.
Thanks X,
i must be a little thick, What is meant by:
" R4 is intrinsic to L4" and,
" R5 value 470m." and,
" S1m and S2m"
Thanks for the clarification
MM
i must be a little thick, What is meant by:
" R4 is intrinsic to L4" and,
" R5 value 470m." and,
" S1m and S2m"
Thanks for the clarification
MM
R4 is the DC resistance of the inductor.
470m means milliohm so 0.47ohm
S1 ans S2 are thr driver designations within the software.
And indeed I used 6 x 2.2uf per channel, 2 in parallel for the 4.4uf.
470m means milliohm so 0.47ohm
S1 ans S2 are thr driver designations within the software.
And indeed I used 6 x 2.2uf per channel, 2 in parallel for the 4.4uf.
Last edited:
MM,
Example of an inductor with 1.2R DC resistance:
Dayton Audio 4.0mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
Example of an inductor with 1.2R DC resistance:
Dayton Audio 4.0mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor Crossover Coil
6 in total, for two speakers, right?
2x 2.2 uf for C3, 1x 2.2 uf for C1. For two speakers that's 6 2.2 uf caps?
Thanks for the info, so a person purchases a 4mH air coil, which has a DCR of 1.2 ohms.
So you are not really adding R4 to the X/O, "it is included (ie: intrinsic) in the air coil.
Is this correct?
MM
So you are not really adding R4 to the X/O, "it is included (ie: intrinsic) in the air coil.
Is this correct?
MM
Yes, the R4 is how I showed the Coils’s DCR. Xsim allows you to include as part of the inductor but it doesn’t show up on the schematic which is why I put it separately.
There is a possible trick here that might save money and increase bass sensitivity.
Use a 4mH straight iron core inductor. They are much less expensive and DCR is only about 0.44ohm. You might gain a whole 1.5dB of extra bass sensitivity. Iron core is not necessarily bad.
I bought a couple to try out - but too lazy to pull my speaker apart to try.
Dayton Audio 4.0mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
There is a possible trick here that might save money and increase bass sensitivity.
Use a 4mH straight iron core inductor. They are much less expensive and DCR is only about 0.44ohm. You might gain a whole 1.5dB of extra bass sensitivity. Iron core is not necessarily bad.
I bought a couple to try out - but too lazy to pull my speaker apart to try.
Dayton Audio 4.0mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil
Last edited:
Thanks X,
I may have a couple of these in my parts bin. Not sure what the inductance is, will have to check. If I remember they are Erse brand.
MM
I may have a couple of these in my parts bin. Not sure what the inductance is, will have to check. If I remember they are Erse brand.
MM
MM,
Erse is quite popular among DIYers and I have a couple of them too.
Let us know what you have in hand.
Erse is quite popular among DIYers and I have a couple of them too.
Let us know what you have in hand.
Hi X,
Can the width, height, and depth of the enclosure be increased by 1/4" without causing any problems. I would like to finish the BB with a coating which would add about a 1/4" on all aspects.
MM
Can the width, height, and depth of the enclosure be increased by 1/4" without causing any problems. I would like to finish the BB with a coating which would add about a 1/4" on all aspects.
MM
No problem adding 0.25in width to the cabinet baffle. You can change any dimension except the overall width try to keep close to 10in and distance between woofer and fullrange centers at 7in. Those two affect the crossover.
Thanks X,
Over all width will be 10.25" rather than 10". Plywood would be 10" and an extra 0.25" for applied exterior coating.
MM
Over all width will be 10.25" rather than 10". Plywood would be 10" and an extra 0.25" for applied exterior coating.
MM