Couple things. One is the amount of space they need. I already have a a tall set and don't have a place to give them a good setting. I could go with the smaller, but I can use the money if I sell the crossovers. I've started another hobby, sawmilling, and have a few things I need for the mill.
If I don't sell them, I'll hang on to them and build them sometime down the road. I love the idea and am very thankful for members like yourself who are willing to share your expertise.
I used a pair of RS225s I have in a different set to try out the WAWs, but I put them back. I have a pair of RS225Ps, but I don't know what I'd need to do to make them work, or if they would work and I don't know when the regular RS225s will be back in stock.
Thanks,
Mike
If I don't sell them, I'll hang on to them and build them sometime down the road. I love the idea and am very thankful for members like yourself who are willing to share your expertise.
I used a pair of RS225s I have in a different set to try out the WAWs, but I put them back. I have a pair of RS225Ps, but I don't know what I'd need to do to make them work, or if they would work and I don't know when the regular RS225s will be back in stock.
Thanks,
Mike
My sealed monitors are coming along great. Waiting on XO parts to arrive. I have ff85wk and TC9FD on hand. Help me decide which to use. While they require minimal XO change the main difference is baffle preparation to flush mount the odd shaped TC9FD. I'm very sensitive to brightness/harshness and have experienced this somewhat with the ff85wk.
I just don't want to use the TC9FD and feel like I'm giving up detail. Thanks.
I just don't want to use the TC9FD and feel like I'm giving up detail. Thanks.
You don’t have to flush mount the TC9FD. It has enough detail for me and as much 10F/8424. The FF85WK has limited power handling compared to TC9FD but probably a bit more high end. Another good choice is 3FE22-8 or 3FE25-8. The latter being quite a bit less expensive. If you can find 8ohm fiberglass cone TG9FD-8 is also great.
Staying in the game 
I decided against selling the xovers and I ordered a pair of RS225s. Just didn't sit right not sticking with these.
I'm not sure if I'm going to use the larger cabinets or go with the smaller ones, though.
The drivers should be here some time next week. I don't have the 10Fs, but I have the small Fostex drivers, TC9s, and PS95s. I'm not sure which to use. ANy suggestions until I get the 10Fs?
I decided against selling the xovers and I ordered a pair of RS225s. Just didn't sit right not sticking with these.
I'm not sure if I'm going to use the larger cabinets or go with the smaller ones, though.
The drivers should be here some time next week. I don't have the 10Fs, but I have the small Fostex drivers, TC9s, and PS95s. I'm not sure which to use. ANy suggestions until I get the 10Fs?
Great, Mike, you will not regret it!
@nareshseep, I wouldn't use the paper cone variants, because they don't work properly above 600-700 Hz, which however is required in this design. Just take a look at the frequency response in data sheet of the "normal" RS225 and compare it with the P-variants. XRK also wrote here, that the paper cones are not suitable.
@nareshseep, I wouldn't use the paper cone variants, because they don't work properly above 600-700 Hz, which however is required in this design. Just take a look at the frequency response in data sheet of the "normal" RS225 and compare it with the P-variants. XRK also wrote here, that the paper cones are not suitable.
I used the PS95. No problem with it at all to my ears apart from maybe my ears/ room/placement prefer the dispersion of a tweeter, I think you'll be fine with the 95s if you have them. Maybe try them 'flat out without any resistor. Might add a bit more sparkle? If you will order 10f not sure if they aren't the same diameter as PS95 so if you are routing a baffle then this is worth bearing in mind.
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Thanks for the suggestion. That should be easy enough to try by just shorting the resistor with a jumper.
TL height
I bought my sheets of BB-3/4" ply. Before cutting I thought I would check the TL schematics and do a little calculating. I seem to add the height to 40.5" if I am correctly reading the schematic.
If builders are building to 40" height are they building from top to bottom and not worrying about the 1/2" lost as it is on the bottom. Or, am I totally out to lunch
Measurement from top to vent opening: 3/4" + 8" + 13" + 3/4" = 22.5"
Measurement of vent opening = 2-1/2"
Measurement from btm of vent to bottom: 3/4"+3"+6"+5"+3/4" = 15-1/2"
Total = 40-1/2"
Thanks,
MM
I bought my sheets of BB-3/4" ply. Before cutting I thought I would check the TL schematics and do a little calculating. I seem to add the height to 40.5" if I am correctly reading the schematic.
If builders are building to 40" height are they building from top to bottom and not worrying about the 1/2" lost as it is on the bottom. Or, am I totally out to lunch
Measurement from top to vent opening: 3/4" + 8" + 13" + 3/4" = 22.5"
Measurement of vent opening = 2-1/2"
Measurement from btm of vent to bottom: 3/4"+3"+6"+5"+3/4" = 15-1/2"
Total = 40-1/2"
Thanks,
MM