Hi Eric,
Will this module work with unballanced input (2v) for a subwoofer?
Can you please PM me for more information ?
Hi
Just bought some enclosure from member @R.Po and his model 1282 fits perfectly for the 2x 150W. There’s about 1/8 clearance from the top cover to the heatsink of the power amp. I’ll put some Kapton tape on the heatsink just in case..
Picture below.
BR
Eric
Just bought some enclosure from member @R.Po and his model 1282 fits perfectly for the 2x 150W. There’s about 1/8 clearance from the top cover to the heatsink of the power amp. I’ll put some Kapton tape on the heatsink just in case..
Picture below.
BR
Eric
It looks very neat, I would use the kapton on the top of the caps (they have 63VDC or something like that) and on the chassis instead of the heatsink for a better airflow, if you are worried about some short.
I don't see any "job" as of yet. Just a "checkbook work "😉 Orientation of the enclosure is not the most fortunate , no ;?)
I forgot to add that keep an eye on thermal management, the chassis is very nice but you might need to add a couple vents here and there.
For a class AB I would but for a class D like this amp I really doubt it will come hot.
I have many class D with less ventilation in the enclosure and there’s no issues, they have been working for years.
I have many class D with less ventilation in the enclosure and there’s no issues, they have been working for years.
what are you talking about? what drama? I'm was trying to give you a heads up... jeez bad day huh?
Not to take away from your "perfect fit" joy, but unless the module just about fits between front and back if turned 90 degrees - I'd say this fits more like ..scooter handlebar mitts. 🤣
With the nice layout from Eric on the input board with LED and switch, would be a pity not to make best use of this - it should still work well if just the input board is turned 90 degrees and the backpanel drilled accordingly, could make for a nice layout with either this center and speaker outputs left and right - side or simply these in center to keep all the wiring short (26' ribbon cable should be longer in all cases) Mains inlet would also fit nicely in the outer corner.
These modules do indeed need some cooling, = proper circulation around the top heatsinks. Another option could be to add an isolating gapfiller (thermal pad), instead of the kapton, to the lid. Hitting two birds with one stone 😀
Wishing you great fun with the build, it is a nice looking cabinet 👍
With the nice layout from Eric on the input board with LED and switch, would be a pity not to make best use of this - it should still work well if just the input board is turned 90 degrees and the backpanel drilled accordingly, could make for a nice layout with either this center and speaker outputs left and right - side or simply these in center to keep all the wiring short (26' ribbon cable should be longer in all cases) Mains inlet would also fit nicely in the outer corner.
These modules do indeed need some cooling, = proper circulation around the top heatsinks. Another option could be to add an isolating gapfiller (thermal pad), instead of the kapton, to the lid. Hitting two birds with one stone 😀
Wishing you great fun with the build, it is a nice looking cabinet 👍
All I did was to show that this nice enclosure can be used with this amp. Prices for enclosures have sky rocketed so I simply wanted to share some good news…
I do intend to rotate the input board by 90 degrees.
BR,
Eric
I do intend to rotate the input board by 90 degrees.
BR,
Eric
Nice looking case, for some reason the FFA001 heatsink does run a little warmer than most class d amps. On the 3 I built 1 is passively cooled the other 2 use a fan. Oddly the FFA003 I built runs cool and probably could have done without any additional cooling but to be on the safe side I did vent the case. Nice sounding amps I keep gifting them to family and need another for my work bench. Moving forward I sure wish Eric would provide plugs to remote mount standby switch and led.
Bill
Bill