AF - I believe that the recording is of your DML's, but crying out loud - show a picture. This is a visual world, with so much data that we have to make choices as what to spend our precious time on. If I can't see it visually or at least have a good explanation to picture it in my mind - I'm not going to waste my time to even push play.
I think it is pretty obvious by now that Audiofrenzy is not going to show his secret panels 😎
I might make the odd humorous quips about it, but it is a waste of time and effort to try and force him to post them.
It is a pity that he feels he cannot share his designs with us, but it does seem to cause a lot hostility and air time.
Personally I don't think he has anything to worry about as I have been posting for many years and cannot recall anyone actually following closely one of my designs?
Everyone seems to want to design their own panels no matter what good ideas you come up with.
Which is probably another reason I do not bother posting my ideas anymore.
I have spent very little time in my music room this year, but since I have been to the last two audio shows in the last two weekends, I have started to get itchy fingers 😅
Peter quortrap of Audio note gave me some old recordings on CDs from the about 1910 ?
But the first 5 tracks were from a later date (no date was supplied) which sounded fantastic on my panels.
I will have to ask him if I am aloud to post them on this site, as I feel it would be polite to ask.
Over all the years i have been going to audio shows i have always found audio note to be one of the best sounds at the shows ,and sometimes the best, in my opinion that is.
Stay happy 😃
Steve.
I might make the odd humorous quips about it, but it is a waste of time and effort to try and force him to post them.
It is a pity that he feels he cannot share his designs with us, but it does seem to cause a lot hostility and air time.
Personally I don't think he has anything to worry about as I have been posting for many years and cannot recall anyone actually following closely one of my designs?
Everyone seems to want to design their own panels no matter what good ideas you come up with.
Which is probably another reason I do not bother posting my ideas anymore.
I have spent very little time in my music room this year, but since I have been to the last two audio shows in the last two weekends, I have started to get itchy fingers 😅
Peter quortrap of Audio note gave me some old recordings on CDs from the about 1910 ?
But the first 5 tracks were from a later date (no date was supplied) which sounded fantastic on my panels.
I will have to ask him if I am aloud to post them on this site, as I feel it would be polite to ask.
Over all the years i have been going to audio shows i have always found audio note to be one of the best sounds at the shows ,and sometimes the best, in my opinion that is.
Stay happy 😃
Steve.
Hi jaxboy.
I know you built the canvas picture frames, which was not my idea, I just tweaked it up a little.
I did think of you when I made that comment, but as I said I cannot claim it as my idea.
To be honest you are the only on I can remember that has given me feedback on a finished project.
What was the other panel you built?
All the best .
Steve.
I know you built the canvas picture frames, which was not my idea, I just tweaked it up a little.
I did think of you when I made that comment, but as I said I cannot claim it as my idea.
To be honest you are the only on I can remember that has given me feedback on a finished project.
What was the other panel you built?
All the best .
Steve.
Steve,
I should have clarified a bit. I knew that my original panels were from "offgridkindaguy", I think was his moniker. I haven't seen him on here for about a year or so. I used your spar plan to keep the exciter tight, and I used your coke-can bottom as a tweeter. Basically, I followed you and your ideas to either keep or reject my original plans.
I should have clarified a bit. I knew that my original panels were from "offgridkindaguy", I think was his moniker. I haven't seen him on here for about a year or so. I used your spar plan to keep the exciter tight, and I used your coke-can bottom as a tweeter. Basically, I followed you and your ideas to either keep or reject my original plans.
I've decided to embark on a DML Pannel project. It is going to be a long - slow event.
I have ordered my 4x Dayton EX 32EP-4 exciters.
The project will include open baffle12" bass/sub with 200Hz XO to reduce DML 'flapping'.
The crossover will probably be first order for the woofer, and second order for the DML's.
I also intend to incorporate a TRUE super-tweeter > strictly above 10Khz.
The whole speaker system will be built around a structurally firm wooden frame/arrangement.
Some time in the future, I will provide some photos and comments
I have ordered my 4x Dayton EX 32EP-4 exciters.
The project will include open baffle12" bass/sub with 200Hz XO to reduce DML 'flapping'.
The crossover will probably be first order for the woofer, and second order for the DML's.
I also intend to incorporate a TRUE super-tweeter > strictly above 10Khz.
The whole speaker system will be built around a structurally firm wooden frame/arrangement.
Some time in the future, I will provide some photos and comments
Jaxboy.
When testing the coke can sound, I put a steep slope at 8k to try and mimic your hearing loss.
I was surprised at how much of the performance you can hear.
I have got some way to go until my hearing it that bad, but it is good to know that I will still be able to appreciate good sounding music 👍
Steve.
When testing the coke can sound, I put a steep slope at 8k to try and mimic your hearing loss.
I was surprised at how much of the performance you can hear.
I have got some way to go until my hearing it that bad, but it is good to know that I will still be able to appreciate good sounding music 👍
Steve.
Mister Audio,
Sounds like a reasonable plan.
What material, thickness, and dimensions did you have in mind?
By DML "flapping", can you clarify what you are referring to? Unsupported exciters can "flap" and free panel edges can "flap", but both are prevented by supporting the exciter on a spine, and attaching the panel edges to your frame using a foam tape with adhesive on both sides.
Eric
Charlie Laub (here on DIYaudio) has some good ideas on Open Baffle design, for bass, 80hz to 350hz, he prefers four 8" or 10" inch drivers instead of the usual single 12" or a 15"
Hi there,
For the panels, and because I am using two exciters per panel, I am going to use a 10mm Australian product
that has thin aluminum bonded to both sides. I am going for a (large) standard size of 2400mm x 1200mm.
Although the top of the panels will be HUNG, the bottom will not just hang in mid air.
Because the bottom of panels will be roughly 1.5 feet above floor (base plate), I intend to use a large U shape of
highly flexible rubber tubing. This will basically connect to the bottom corners of panels down to 'central floor'.
(I am not rounding corners as depicted in many videos) This approach will stop the bottom of panels just 'floating about'.
The sides of the panels will not be connected to anything. The gap between panels & frame sides will be .5 cm.
The 'frame sides' will create slightly small triangular walls, The lower & larger part of these walls will (with a panel)
create the mounting of the 12" woofer - facing slightly downwards. (with floor & mounting creating very slight horn loading.
As so often mentioned, I am going to give great attention to placement of the exciters - I have some ideas
PS.
My original thoughts on the subject was to obviously create a rigid/firm structure securing
the chassis of the exciter from movement >
But, somehow, by some twist of motional physics, you get more efficiency & better sound
without such a thing. It's more about how you control the panel itself
My original thoughts on the subject was to obviously create a rigid/firm structure securing
the chassis of the exciter from movement >
But, somehow, by some twist of motional physics, you get more efficiency & better sound
without such a thing. It's more about how you control the panel itself
Hello Dean,
Do you have the reason for that? or the link to Charlie's posts?
Christian
Steve,
I just used PVA. I couldn't tell the difference and they detracted from the look, so I took them off. I kept them in case I decide at a later date to try them again. I didn't take any pictures and don't know how to record to get the true sound. Sorry.
Do you have a link to a description of that material that you could share? I'm curious about what the core is and how thick the aluminum skins are.
Are you saying that each panel is going to be 2400x1200, or are you buying one of those and cutting the two panels of some other dimensions from it?
Eric
Hello Steve,
Although we already discussed about phone recording, I haven't pushed this really. I found this post #5190 where you recommanded HiQrecorder (not free), recforge2 (AVC can't be disable in the free version).
Do you have new suggestions?
I am still wondering about the setup...
- Smartphones have a front and a rear microphone. What your app do ? Front to L and R (=mono), Front to ie L and then rear to R?
- Placement of the smartphone?
- Long side in the listen axis or perpendicular?
- I just made one test I posted and your remark was the phone was probably to far from the panels, the sound of the room was too high. Do you have an advice for the distance?
@spedge
Steve,
I just had a more careful look around the smartphone possibilities to record... Well... not easy.
The smartphones are not designed to record in stereo even if they have 2 mics. The low level stages might interfere, the app itself in certain cases seem apply effect (ie Dolby On : stereo widening, noise reduction...).
In certain cases, it is difficult to know what a laptop under Windows does, in a smartphone under Android, the situation is far to be clear...
Nevertheless, the question of the distance for recording remains.
Hey there,
I believe the (panel) product is Polystyrene thinly coated. I will attach a scan file.
I have quickly realized that 2400mm is a ridiculous height & too much mass >
I will be cutting it down to make the panels 1800mm x 1200mm.
Because my 'shallow triangular' side walls will be made from standard 2400mm length timber,
this will give me 600mm of total space above & below the panels for hanging above, and woofer output below.