Do you know the type of the thread? I only know it is 1 3/8".
If I remember correctly it is 1-3/8" UNEF.
Why not? This is how FDM printing works...How the hell are you printing all that without supports?!
So no one needs bracing ever because
and bracing is now a non issue for areas of the prints with large over hang...This is how FDM printing works...
There are no overhangs in that print, that's the whole point.
- BTW, I already have a bigger throat version printed - 1.4" for the Faital HF1440, which could be interesting (no supports!
).
Still need to draw and print a rotating mounting stand to have it complete (some supports may be needed in that one, I'm not decided yet).
- BTW, I already have a bigger throat version printed - 1.4" for the Faital HF1440, which could be interesting (no supports!
Still need to draw and print a rotating mounting stand to have it complete (some supports may be needed in that one, I'm not decided yet).
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You are the teacher =)...looks like over hangishness to me, but I'm probably missing something from a technical standpoint...also I would imagine the print orientation has to be considered but I thought that anything that wasn't a straight 90 degrees up was an "overhang" of some kind (in particular if theres nothing to be base, under it) and if the it became too dramatic supports would be needed. My opinion on your curves is that it was never dramatic enough to require supports. I'm likely missing something but I am a 3d print noob thus far.
camplo - The safe angle is considerably less than 90 deg - How to calculate maximum overhang angle - Omni3D
Technically, it may be called an overhang if it's less than 90 degrees but to me it means those parts that require support, otherwise it's just a slanted wall - no problem printing that.
Technically, it may be called an overhang if it's less than 90 degrees but to me it means those parts that require support, otherwise it's just a slanted wall - no problem printing that.
No, and actually I've found that a lesser rollback works better - even this is too much.
Something like this seems to be optimal - http://at-horns.eu/img/faital/HF1440-back-4.PNG
The above is just for the sake of straightforward print and reproducibility. It doesn't have to the best possible in this case, but it has to be the same each time without too much effort. It's also way too small to be really useful for anything else.
Something like this seems to be optimal - http://at-horns.eu/img/faital/HF1440-back-4.PNG
The above is just for the sake of straightforward print and reproducibility. It doesn't have to the best possible in this case, but it has to be the same each time without too much effort. It's also way too small to be really useful for anything else.
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A laser pointer holder for precise microphone aiming![]()
I use myself a cross laser pointer for that and I noticed that the cross is, sometimes, not at the center of pointer casing, nor parallel to the case center axis ! So check that before. I had to buy a bunch of them (not on the cheaper side) to find one acceptable to the task
That is a "finder scope telescope", used to search the sky for space objects - it must be parallel to the main telescope which it's attached to. This was just a random example of the idea (i.e. three or six bolts in a tube, basically). This could be used directly fo the purpose, I guess - Mount Stand Pointer Bracket Finderscope for Astronomical Telescope
Finally, an easy & convenient jig for testing drivers -
Finally, an easy & convenient jig for testing drivers -
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A laser pointer holder for precise microphone aiming![]()
I`m using two of these:
uFO2 - Gear Up for Adventure
Something between the laser and the "gaps" (flat something) and then some tedious alignment....
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