This guy sells Wima pps 1.5uf/63v https://www.ebay.com/sch/kip1607/m.html?item=113921311155&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
He is legit,
Curious if he is not a member of this forum.
He is legit,
Curious if he is not a member of this forum.
A quick one Lester. Did my parcel have the correct address on it, or do I have the correct tracking number?
I appreciate parcels don't always come the most direct route but 'my' parcel appears to be in Norway at the moment and it has a Norwegian address as 'destination.
The tracking you gave me was
CX-SK17145
Thankyou!
I appreciate parcels don't always come the most direct route but 'my' parcel appears to be in Norway at the moment and it has a Norwegian address as 'destination.
The tracking you gave me was
CX-SK17145
Thankyou!
This guy sells Wima pps 1.5uf/63v https://www.ebay.com/sch/kip1607/m.html?item=113921311155&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
He is legit,
Curious if he is not a member of this forum.
Asuslover: I thank you for this. I’m always a bit leery of buying any components off of EBay even though the seller has an excellent rating. Looking at the data sheet posted with the item it clearly says the casing color is supposed to be red while the caps in the picture are black. I ordered the 1uF Kemet SMR caps from Digikey to try them first (only 5mm pin spacing which means I’ll still have to bend the pins to get them to fit the board’s holes).
Regards, Pete
I do understand your concern, these pps wima 1.5uf are not even on the datasheet, I believe they were part of a special order, it was discussed here:
Fake WIMA's?
But I'm 99.9% sure they are legit. I could spare a few if anyone in US would be interested.
Fake WIMA's?
But I'm 99.9% sure they are legit. I could spare a few if anyone in US would be interested.
Attachments
D
Deleted member 148505
Hi James,
Here's the link for tracking. DHL eCommerce Tracking
Also DHL eCommerce is only equivalent to postal service, normal shipping times is 2 weeks to 6 weeks after the data submitted status.
Here's the timeline of our shipping consolidator.
Parcel pickup (1 to 2 days) -> Parcel processing (2 to 8 days) -> DHL eCommerce (2 to 6 weeks)
Huge delay is from parcel processing from the local courier side, the item might stay for 10 days on their warehouse before they submit it to DHL eCommerce.
Regards,
Lester
Here's the link for tracking. DHL eCommerce Tracking
Also DHL eCommerce is only equivalent to postal service, normal shipping times is 2 weeks to 6 weeks after the data submitted status.
Here's the timeline of our shipping consolidator.
Parcel pickup (1 to 2 days) -> Parcel processing (2 to 8 days) -> DHL eCommerce (2 to 6 weeks)
Huge delay is from parcel processing from the local courier side, the item might stay for 10 days on their warehouse before they submit it to DHL eCommerce.
Regards,
Lester
D
Deleted member 148505
Thanks Lester....sorry have cleared inbox!
That looks better! I hadnt realised it was a DHL number. Was trying it in the Courier Express page.
I see it and my destination is correct...all good. And there's no rush. It arrives when it arrives!
Ok thanks!
Hi !
I m interrested in ordering this great TPA3255 implementation, but for a quad channel solution (powering LXmini). then it would be powered from a 2x24V PSU and each speaker would have a connection to the middle point. is it possible to tweak/mod the board for this (config of the tpa and aop middle point ?
if so, do we still need the signal cap before and after the aop ??
thank you!
I m interrested in ordering this great TPA3255 implementation, but for a quad channel solution (powering LXmini). then it would be powered from a 2x24V PSU and each speaker would have a connection to the middle point. is it possible to tweak/mod the board for this (config of the tpa and aop middle point ?
if so, do we still need the signal cap before and after the aop ??
thank you!
D
Deleted member 148505
Hi !
I m interrested in ordering this great TPA3255 implementation, but for a quad channel solution (powering LXmini). then it would be powered from a 2x24V PSU and each speaker would have a connection to the middle point. is it possible to tweak/mod the board for this (config of the tpa and aop middle point ?
if so, do we still need the signal cap before and after the aop ??
thank you!
Hi for TICore260BTL, only 2 channels can be used for 1 board.
The speaker output connections are floating (BTL), you cannot tie the negative leads to a single ground.
You can use 2x24V DC PSU, if you can series them to get 48V DC.
Signal caps before and after the opamp cannot be removed. Also you cannot change the gain of the differential buffer since we are using single supply for the circuit (sloa058).
----------------------------------------
I will create an add-on module: preamp + buffer with low noise split supply (ETA 1 month).
Also In 2 weeks, my TPA3251 PFFB 36V module will be available.
Board: TICore260BTL
Output inductors: Codaca 17A (no label)
PVDD caps: 4x1200uF Lelon
Heatsink: Generic 30x30x100mm
Opamps: JRC4580D
Price 90USD (free postal shipping)
Regards,
Lester
HelloHi for TICore260BTL, only 2 channels can be used for 1 board.
The speaker output connections are floating (BTL), you cannot tie the negative leads to a single ground.
Lester
The card cannot be used in SE (with output capacitor)?
regards
D
Deleted member 148505
Hello
The card cannot be used in SE (with output capacitor)?
regards
Yes, M1 (pin3) and M2 (pin4) is soldered to ground. So it can't be modified.
SE THD performance is inferior.
Regards,
Lester
D
Deleted member 148505
I tried comparing opamp + input caps.
Non-PFFB,
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = JRC4580
- Surprisingly good sound, the sharp sound of JRC4580 is being tamed by the silmic II resulting to non-harsh treble and good thick mids. Bass is well defined.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = JRC4580
- Same as before but with finer and less highs that accentuates the mids, so the resulting sound is slightly muffled, good for bright speakers.
---------------------------------------
non-PFFB, all nichicon muse 22uF + LME49860
- Realistic and open sounding
- Treble is like +3dB on the equalizer(added treble), less refined treble, mids are good.
- Good for videoke system or for instruments.
---------------------------------------
PFFB, all nichicon muse 22uF + LME49860
- This is the stock sound of JLE TICore260BTL
- Overall finer sounding compared with JRC4580, slightly busy sound on complex music.
- Treble is like +3dB on the equalizer(added treble), and the mids set to -3dB (reduced mids). Good for warm speakers.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II
Opamp = LME49860
- Fine highs, slightly veiled sound, the treble is like -3dB on the equalizer, mids are creamy. Good for bright and nearfield listening speakers.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = OPA1656
- Smooth and slightly veiled sound, the treble is like -3dB on the equalizer, handles complex sound really well (like fluid and dynamic). Less treble than LME49860.
---------------------------------------
PFFB, all nichicon muse BP 22uF
Opamp = OPA1656
- Metallic and aggressive.
---------------------------------------
Still waiting for the new caps, hopefully they will arrive before the holidays.
Non-PFFB,
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = JRC4580
- Surprisingly good sound, the sharp sound of JRC4580 is being tamed by the silmic II resulting to non-harsh treble and good thick mids. Bass is well defined.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = JRC4580
- Same as before but with finer and less highs that accentuates the mids, so the resulting sound is slightly muffled, good for bright speakers.
---------------------------------------
non-PFFB, all nichicon muse 22uF + LME49860
- Realistic and open sounding
- Treble is like +3dB on the equalizer(added treble), less refined treble, mids are good.
- Good for videoke system or for instruments.
---------------------------------------
PFFB, all nichicon muse 22uF + LME49860
- This is the stock sound of JLE TICore260BTL
- Overall finer sounding compared with JRC4580, slightly busy sound on complex music.
- Treble is like +3dB on the equalizer(added treble), and the mids set to -3dB (reduced mids). Good for warm speakers.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II
Opamp = LME49860
- Fine highs, slightly veiled sound, the treble is like -3dB on the equalizer, mids are creamy. Good for bright and nearfield listening speakers.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = OPA1656
- Smooth and slightly veiled sound, the treble is like -3dB on the equalizer, handles complex sound really well (like fluid and dynamic). Less treble than LME49860.
---------------------------------------
PFFB, all nichicon muse BP 22uF
Opamp = OPA1656
- Metallic and aggressive.
---------------------------------------
Still waiting for the new caps, hopefully they will arrive before the holidays.
Last edited by a moderator:
Nice comparison Lester, thank you.
I will order the LME49860 and OPA1656 for testing, PFFB solder bridges are going to be replaced with 2mm removable jumpers for faster switching of soundstage "profiles", then will try to bypass Silmics/Muses with 1uF SMRs (capacitors combining), also output caps in LC filter can be changed for different Q to match speakers, and there are also 6 selectable options in my speakers' crossovers. In summary, there are so many combinations to try, that I see myself looking for the right sound for the whole next year![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
I will order the LME49860 and OPA1656 for testing, PFFB solder bridges are going to be replaced with 2mm removable jumpers for faster switching of soundstage "profiles", then will try to bypass Silmics/Muses with 1uF SMRs (capacitors combining), also output caps in LC filter can be changed for different Q to match speakers, and there are also 6 selectable options in my speakers' crossovers. In summary, there are so many combinations to try, that I see myself looking for the right sound for the whole next year
It's funny how I have always thought that the worst part about the SMPS, that needs shielding, is the SMPS itself, or at least its switching part. And now we are fiddling about how to protect the good SMPS from the bad AC
BTW, those "small but good input caps" are hard to find, I know... This is how it ended on my small TPA3116 amp![]()
I tried comparing opamp + input caps.
Non-PFFB,
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = JRC4580
- Surprisingly good sound, the sharp sound of JRC4580 is being tamed by the silmic II resulting to non-harsh treble and good thick mids. Bass is well defined.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = JRC4580
- Same as before but with finer and less highs that accentuates the mids, so the resulting sound is slightly muffled, good for bright speakers.
---------------------------------------
non-PFFB, all nichicon muse 22uF + LME49860
- Realistic and open sounding
- Treble is like +3dB on the equalizer(added treble), less refined treble, mids are good.
- Good for videoke system or for instruments.
---------------------------------------
PFFB, all nichicon muse 22uF + LME49860
- This is the stock sound of JLE TICore260BTL
- Overall finer sounding compared with JRC4580, slightly busy sound on complex music.
- Treble is like +3dB on the equalizer(added treble), and the mids set to -3dB (reduced mids). Good for warm speakers.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II
Opamp = LME49860
- Fine highs, slightly veiled sound, the treble is like -3dB on the equalizer, mids are creamy. Good for bright and nearfield listening speakers.
---------------------------------------
PFFB
Pre-Opamp cap = Nichicon Muse UES BP 22uF
Pre-TPA3255 cap = Elna Silmic II 10uF
Opamp = OPA1656
- Smooth and slightly veiled sound, the treble is like -3dB on the equalizer, handles complex sound really well (like fluid and dynamic). Less treble than LME49860.
---------------------------------------
PFFB, all nichicon muse BP 22uF
Opamp = OPA1656
- Metallic and aggressive.
---------------------------------------
Still waiting for the new caps, hopefully they will arrive before the holidays.
Nice work Lester !
Keep going like that ...
D
Deleted member 148505
Nice comparison Lester, thank you.
I will order the LME49860 and OPA1656 for testing, PFFB solder bridges are going to be replaced with 2mm removable jumpers for faster switching of soundstage "profiles", then will try to bypass Silmics/Muses with 1uF SMRs (capacitors combining), also output caps in LC filter can be changed for different Q to match speakers, and there are also 6 selectable options in my speakers' crossovers. In summary, there are so many combinations to try, that I see myself looking for the right sound for the whole next year![]()
Yes I think if we parallel 1uF caps to Elna Silmic II, it will open up a bit while retaining the smooth sound.
Thanks Alex!Nice work Lester !
Keep going like that ...
BTW, please don't do that... can always just avoid using it if needed.Thanks, I will add the clarification on startup manual and remove gnd tap on future modules.
D
Deleted member 148505
Omg we have 65kHz switching SMPS?So, in the end, isn't it better to use 10uH? I see farnell has 103KL in stock. I know, it is less linear etc. But...
10uH + 1uF has 50kHz freq.
10uH + 1,5uF has 41kHz freq.
Both with usable Q.
Please use 10uH + 1uF. Using 6.8uH requires modifications on post filter feedback and zobel for stability. (or disable PFFB to use 6.8uH without parts modification)
For others: VER2923-103KL is already out of stock on Mouser. We can use AGP2923-103KL (automotive type) as an alternative, its mounting pins can be removed by using pliers.
We can also use 7G23A-100M which is very linear (although discontinued already). ICE Components 1D23A-100M is also compatible but there's no inductance vs current graph in their datasheet.
Regards,
Lester
BTW, please don't do that... can always just avoid using it if needed.
Ok not an issue, thanks.
Your advises and care are much appreciated Lester, thank you! Is 10uH + 1,22uF ok with my PFFB parts? 1,22uF gives me the best looking graphs and damping factor for my 4Ohm speakers. Changing zobel is not problem, if needed.JLesterP said:Please use 10uH + 1uF.
Farnell/Newark has lots of them stocked.JLesterP said:VER2923-103KL is already out of stock on Mouser.
That is exactly what I was thinking about. The original idea comes from this longtime project Humble Homemade Hifi - Cap Test where it is stated somewhere, that the good ratio is 80-90% of main cap and 10-20% of better/altering cap. So if Silmic is too veiled and Muse too harsh, it will be interesting to taste the sound of the combination of (say) 10uF Silmic/Muse in parallel with 1uF Wima/Kemet/other foil cap under the PCB. Will try it after holidays.JLesterP said:Yes I think if we parallel 1uF caps to Elna Silmic II, it will open up a bit while retaining the smooth sound.
Attachments
Please use 10uH + 1uF. Using 6.8uH requires modifications on post filter feedback and zobel for stability. (or disable PFFB to use 6.8uH without parts modification)
Lester : would it be safe to use 10uH + 0.68uF with the current PFFB in place?
Thanks,
Pete
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