Certainly the diamond is harder than the vinyl, but a stylus does wear out in about 1000 hours of playing. Without anti-skate, the force on one side is slightly higher than the other, so it wears more on one side than the other. It's not a huge issue, but you should always keep an eye on your stylus wear and/or keep a rough estimate of the number of hours playing. Hint- clean records are better!
Yes on the arm. I first changed to a Black Widow and some moving magnet type cartridge.
It now uses a Magnepan Unitrac and Moving coil type.
Changing out the arm made a surprising improvement.
Russellc
For modifiers, it's not so much that the older models had clunky arm. It was the way it was mounted. The more modern ARs have an Arm board that is exposed, making alternative arms easy to mount. The older tables arm post comes up through a hole, with no exposed arm board.
Also, if I remember correctly, what serves as arm board isn't removable. This makes using a different arm requires massive modification.
Modifications like Merrill's sub chassis can't just be dropped in.
All that said, there are numerous folks who are expert in modding these older examples.
They are quite pleasant as is.
With full on Merrill mods, it is much, much better. Drastically. All that is left of my table that is original is the wooden case, metal top plate. Same motor, but modified per Merrill's original instructions.
What did I do with all the old parts? Found a seller on ebay making replacement wooden cases for AR tables, another reproduced the metal top plate. Along with extended spring kit ( don't know if this Merrill mod is still available, maybe through vinyl nirvana?)
Then re assembled my turntable. It needs a power supply still.
Russellc
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Just checked, Vinyl Nirvana does sell the spring kits for most all the AR tables. These kits have much longer suspension springs and extended threaded posts that go with them.
This, and arm delrin arm board and better arm were my first mods, big improvement.
Russellc
This, and arm delrin arm board and better arm were my first mods, big improvement.
Russellc
good table - tested very well in BAS magazine - - seems like bonding something like linoleum to the floating underchassis would help.
Here's a BAS Speaker mod for the headshell and arm.
https://bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-08-7505.pdf
Here's a BAS Speaker mod for the headshell and arm.
https://bostonaudiosociety.org/pdf/bass/BASS-03-08-7505.pdf
What I have learned so far...
Some think the AR OEM tone arm is ok others say change it. Some say the suspension needs changed others say its ok. Some say change the 40 year old motor and others say change the bearings in it. Some say a 9" tone arm is ok and others say it needs to be longer. And this continues to every part of the turntable.
Some think there is a magic belt that is going to make it sound better and I look at the pictures they post of their systems and it makes me wonder if upgrading their 1970's receiver along with the marginal speakers might do more for their system than installing a $900 tone arm on a turntable that originally cost less than $100 in 70-80's money.
If I wasn't confused a few days ago I surely am now after sifting thru 150+ pages of pictures of owners upgrades to their AR turntables.
And to think all I wanted to do was to listen to my 50 year old albums occasionally and now I'm contemplating selling off prized possessions to acquire a different one.
Some think the AR OEM tone arm is ok others say change it. Some say the suspension needs changed others say its ok. Some say change the 40 year old motor and others say change the bearings in it. Some say a 9" tone arm is ok and others say it needs to be longer. And this continues to every part of the turntable.
Some think there is a magic belt that is going to make it sound better and I look at the pictures they post of their systems and it makes me wonder if upgrading their 1970's receiver along with the marginal speakers might do more for their system than installing a $900 tone arm on a turntable that originally cost less than $100 in 70-80's money.
If I wasn't confused a few days ago I surely am now after sifting thru 150+ pages of pictures of owners upgrades to their AR turntables.
And to think all I wanted to do was to listen to my 50 year old albums occasionally and now I'm contemplating selling off prized possessions to acquire a different one.
Just clean it up, a new belt if needed, and start listening. Do align the cartridge. You'll be happy.
If all you want to do is listen to your albums and not over think it or get into a big boondoggle, maybe the uturn I mentioned earlier is for you. 🙂
That was one serious magasine in 1975 with desktop mini computer and everything. Modifications start on page 15 btw.
I wonder if not even better improvements has come up since then - For this and arms in general.
Moding the arm should make the project much more economical than fitting a new one. But wont help Burnedfingers's wish to enjoy records in the foreseeable future. Maybe borrow/find a substiute while modding?
Regarding motor I heard of ones used in some VHS VCR's that are sublime for turntables. Maybe someone here remembers which ones?
Good luck Burned.
Cheers!
Just listen to it as is for a while. The arm is OK, and table was available with or without.
As to the suspension, AR tables suspension travel is too short. Replace posts and springs with kit from Vinyl Nirvana.
Another weak point is the arm board, replace it too. While you are at it, add Vinyl Nirvana pulley.
Russellc
I just had my AR table apart for cleaning and to check under the hood. It was so clean and the oem shipping screw was still installed on the t-bar.
I have a question about a cap that’s on a small pcb board, I have not tested it yet, will do so this weekend. It’s in the power supply part of the table, what does it do and how important is it to be with in specs? What brand would you guys recommend I replace it with ? If I can’t find the right one, how do I install multiples of them to get up to the right value?
I have a question about a cap that’s on a small pcb board, I have not tested it yet, will do so this weekend. It’s in the power supply part of the table, what does it do and how important is it to be with in specs? What brand would you guys recommend I replace it with ? If I can’t find the right one, how do I install multiples of them to get up to the right value?
Typically there are two caps, one across the power switch and one for the motor. You should keep the stock values. The one on the power switch filters the spike you get when activating the switch and the other one is for the 90 degree phase for the second motor coil.
Both should be 600Vdc and uF depending upon the model and line voltage.
The one for the motor is more important as far as being in spec. The value will depend on which motor you have. These do not need to be "high end audiophile" caps.
You can check out Vinyl Nirvana for service manuals.
Both should be 600Vdc and uF depending upon the model and line voltage.
The one for the motor is more important as far as being in spec. The value will depend on which motor you have. These do not need to be "high end audiophile" caps.
You can check out Vinyl Nirvana for service manuals.
I bought an AR XA in great cosmetic shape a week ago.
After cleaning the platter and tonearm wells and oiling them with some 3 in 1, I polished the platter and replaced the belt, which seems in good shape; it's said to be 2 years old and came with a new spare, in a bag with bit of talcum powder in it.
The Shure M55e cartridge in it was selected by the shop who restored it, installed it to the tonearm, and set the weight, tonearm height and length.
So far I'm impressed enough with the table and cartridge match to not worry about getting another headshell and trying out any of my ADC Omni Pivot, Grado Red, AT 12XE, ATVM 95EN, Nagaoki ML 110, or AT88e cartridges instead.
Anyone have a similar budget cartridge they like with their AR XA?
Ideally, I'd prefer to change the headshell and only worry about changing the tracking weight.
After cleaning the platter and tonearm wells and oiling them with some 3 in 1, I polished the platter and replaced the belt, which seems in good shape; it's said to be 2 years old and came with a new spare, in a bag with bit of talcum powder in it.
The Shure M55e cartridge in it was selected by the shop who restored it, installed it to the tonearm, and set the weight, tonearm height and length.
So far I'm impressed enough with the table and cartridge match to not worry about getting another headshell and trying out any of my ADC Omni Pivot, Grado Red, AT 12XE, ATVM 95EN, Nagaoki ML 110, or AT88e cartridges instead.
Anyone have a similar budget cartridge they like with their AR XA?
Ideally, I'd prefer to change the headshell and only worry about changing the tracking weight.
I inherited my late uncles AR XB a few years ago, it's identical to the XA except it has a cuing lever. I cleaned and lubed the appropriate parts, installed a Shure M75ED cartridge and was so happy with it that I purchased a AR XA locally and gave it the same treatment.
The XA came with a Shure M55E cartridge but the stylus looked like it had been well used so I bought a new one from Jico in Japan along with a new stylus for the Shure M75 cartridge.
I have a few other turntables that I use regularly, Empire 598, Thorens TD 150 and a couple more, all of which are considered by most be better than the AR XA and XB. To be completely honest, I cannot hear any difference between the AR and the others. The AR tonearms are crude by comparison but that does not seem to be detrimental to the sound quality.
When I first got the XB, I was unaware of how fragile the headshell threads were. After installing the cartridge, I did not seat the headshell all of the way into the tonearm before I started to turn the knurled lock-ring causing the threads to strip. I luckily found a NOS headshell on ebay, installed it properly and have had no cause to remove it.
The nice thing about the Shure M55 and M75 cartridges are that they have stylus assemblies with low profiles, this allows them to be changed easily without removing the AR headshell from the tonearm.
The XA came with a Shure M55E cartridge but the stylus looked like it had been well used so I bought a new one from Jico in Japan along with a new stylus for the Shure M75 cartridge.
I have a few other turntables that I use regularly, Empire 598, Thorens TD 150 and a couple more, all of which are considered by most be better than the AR XA and XB. To be completely honest, I cannot hear any difference between the AR and the others. The AR tonearms are crude by comparison but that does not seem to be detrimental to the sound quality.
When I first got the XB, I was unaware of how fragile the headshell threads were. After installing the cartridge, I did not seat the headshell all of the way into the tonearm before I started to turn the knurled lock-ring causing the threads to strip. I luckily found a NOS headshell on ebay, installed it properly and have had no cause to remove it.
The nice thing about the Shure M55 and M75 cartridges are that they have stylus assemblies with low profiles, this allows them to be changed easily without removing the AR headshell from the tonearm.
I just"finished" my AR The Turntable. The final mod was the most expensive, the improved motor and digital speed control from the analog emporium, George Merrills place, where all the other mods came from. It sounds great!