Udo-Additionally i need an USB identifier number. The official USB committee wants a lot of money for just giving out a number...
any help here is highly appreciated
The USB VID PID think is a real PITA for independents. There was a guy in Europe selling PID's and claimed that the USB org can't take away something they sold him (even though they do not agree in any way) but I can't find a link. maybe the uSB enforcers got to him. . .
There is this channel USB Product IDs - Openmoko that may well match what you are doing. It seems you are doing something that could qualify as FOSS and still sell the hardware. (I may be in the market.)
There is also a "dev" ID you can get but that is a dead end.
Otherwise you need to have a corporate overlord with a VID you can work from. More complex but not impossible.
There's some info on that on he website of the Flowcode guys - they sell modules which have, IIRC, a subset of their corporate code, so you can register anything you develop from their modules.
Maybe worth to look into.
Jan
Maybe worth to look into.
Jan
Just to spread this information around to fellow Audio Precision System One owners, as it be a real shame to have to junk these units due to irreparable leaking Cap damage:-
Yesterday I powered up one of my AP1's for the first time since retuning from China 3 years ago, only to find a problem with THD+N, it was jumping about from 0.003% to 0.1% 20Hz-22KHz (GenMon)... So I put it to once side and powered up a second unit only to find other problems and then with a 3rd unit! Yesterday was a REALLY bad day.
So I spent the day looking into the issues on these units - all would fail the selftest routines (the little "Red" tick box in APWIN 2.24), THD, Level and Phase depending upon unit.
The THD problem was due to Electrolytic capacitors leaking on the PCB manufactured by NIC Corporation NRWA series 25V / 47uF Dark Brown Body.
http://www.niccomp.com/products/series.php?series=NRWA
You need to look closely at every PCB in the unit as there are two types manufactured by NIC, Dark Blues types which don't appear to suffer from the issue, I removed 23 "Dark Brown" Caps from my unit, EVERYONE of them had leaked or showed signs of leakage.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...AP1 Cap1.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...AP1 Cap2.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...AP1 Cap2.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...bad Caps.jpg
Unfortunately the electrolyte had almost eaten though the Copper tracks on one of my DIS boards, lucky I caught it just in time.
Basically after cleaning the PCB and replacing all the caps resulted in stable THD readings, but I had to readjust the Null and Level pots to achieve a deep notch (about -115dB to -120), slightly lower the the second harmonic component.
I'm not sure what THD+N at 1Vrms, GenMon, 20Hz to 22KHz is normal, but I was able to tweak 1KHz to 0.00035% (non Wtd) , this then drifted to 0.00045% when the covers where replaced.
After setting the Gen Level, Tweaked the Null and Level Pots in each DIS board Adjusted the Phase pot on one unit, I was able to get all units pass the selftest - WHEN WARMED UP, when first powered up non would pass - it takes about 10 minutes warm up period before the plots on the selftest start to appear they will fit within the Pass / Fail template "Masks".
I say all passed, but one unit would still fail the “Flatness test” at 20Hz, limit is 0.03dB, it failed at -0.035dB… I’ll not waste time hunting this down unless anyone has any ideas?
I also had to adjust the 20MHz Reference (really a poor design the clock frequency all over the place), I also had to adjust the 100Hz, 1KHz, 10KHz & 100KHz Gen frequency pots on the Gen boards, these had drifted on all units.
AP provide the full Calibration routes for the AP1 which I tried in the DOS box on a Windows XP machine but the program was SOOOO primitive (I remember DOS days, but NOTHING this primitive) I could not find the directory that had the procedure / .TST files saved and not knowing what I was really doing escaped back to the safely of the WinXP GUI and stroked my Trackball / Mouse thanking him that the DOS days are long past!
Lastly, a problem I’ve seen in China where one unit on a production line puffed out smoke and flames – the crimping connector on the White Cable from the transformers secondary should be soldered directly to the PCB as the connection overheats and browns / melts the plastic connector housing, ALL my units suffered from the same issue – its going to fail, so take the time to fix it when your replacing the caps.
Yesterday I powered up one of my AP1's for the first time since retuning from China 3 years ago, only to find a problem with THD+N, it was jumping about from 0.003% to 0.1% 20Hz-22KHz (GenMon)... So I put it to once side and powered up a second unit only to find other problems and then with a 3rd unit! Yesterday was a REALLY bad day.
So I spent the day looking into the issues on these units - all would fail the selftest routines (the little "Red" tick box in APWIN 2.24), THD, Level and Phase depending upon unit.
The THD problem was due to Electrolytic capacitors leaking on the PCB manufactured by NIC Corporation NRWA series 25V / 47uF Dark Brown Body.
http://www.niccomp.com/products/series.php?series=NRWA
You need to look closely at every PCB in the unit as there are two types manufactured by NIC, Dark Blues types which don't appear to suffer from the issue, I removed 23 "Dark Brown" Caps from my unit, EVERYONE of them had leaked or showed signs of leakage.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...AP1 Cap1.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...AP1 Cap2.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...AP1 Cap2.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...bad Caps.jpg
Unfortunately the electrolyte had almost eaten though the Copper tracks on one of my DIS boards, lucky I caught it just in time.
Basically after cleaning the PCB and replacing all the caps resulted in stable THD readings, but I had to readjust the Null and Level pots to achieve a deep notch (about -115dB to -120), slightly lower the the second harmonic component.
I'm not sure what THD+N at 1Vrms, GenMon, 20Hz to 22KHz is normal, but I was able to tweak 1KHz to 0.00035% (non Wtd) , this then drifted to 0.00045% when the covers where replaced.
After setting the Gen Level, Tweaked the Null and Level Pots in each DIS board Adjusted the Phase pot on one unit, I was able to get all units pass the selftest - WHEN WARMED UP, when first powered up non would pass - it takes about 10 minutes warm up period before the plots on the selftest start to appear they will fit within the Pass / Fail template "Masks".
I say all passed, but one unit would still fail the “Flatness test” at 20Hz, limit is 0.03dB, it failed at -0.035dB… I’ll not waste time hunting this down unless anyone has any ideas?
I also had to adjust the 20MHz Reference (really a poor design the clock frequency all over the place), I also had to adjust the 100Hz, 1KHz, 10KHz & 100KHz Gen frequency pots on the Gen boards, these had drifted on all units.
AP provide the full Calibration routes for the AP1 which I tried in the DOS box on a Windows XP machine but the program was SOOOO primitive (I remember DOS days, but NOTHING this primitive) I could not find the directory that had the procedure / .TST files saved and not knowing what I was really doing escaped back to the safely of the WinXP GUI and stroked my Trackball / Mouse thanking him that the DOS days are long past!
Lastly, a problem I’ve seen in China where one unit on a production line puffed out smoke and flames – the crimping connector on the White Cable from the transformers secondary should be soldered directly to the PCB as the connection overheats and browns / melts the plastic connector housing, ALL my units suffered from the same issue – its going to fail, so take the time to fix it when your replacing the caps.
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John, great post, but unfortunately none of dropbox image links are working for me. It shows Error (404)
Ops, sorry I copied the posting from a different thread, seems to have just copied the "shortened" URL - Why can you not edit your post after a short time on his forum? why set a time limit?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/AP1 Cap1.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/Section AP1 Cap2.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/AP1 Cap2.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/AP NIC NRWA bad Caps.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/AP1 Cap1.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/Section AP1 Cap2.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/AP1 Cap2.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/86116171/AP NIC NRWA bad Caps.jpg
OK I checked my 3rd unit its OK
SerNo# 32008 OK (NIC NRSA 47uF/25V Caps)
SerNo# 32175 OK (NIC NRSA 47uF/25V Caps)
SerNo# 32554 Bad (NIC NRWA 47uf/25V Caps)
So it looks like the later serial number units are at risk, but these caps are also fitted to the BURR and other option boards so better to visually check.
NIC NRSA "Dark Blue Body", OK
NIC NRWA "Dark Brown Body" Leak...
I suspect the NRWA types might have been a low impedance series, while the NRSA are just general purpose.
Around the same era, I used Nippon ChemiCon Caps Low impedance type in my designs and these all leaked overtime (these where also dark brown body).
SerNo# 32008 OK (NIC NRSA 47uF/25V Caps)
SerNo# 32175 OK (NIC NRSA 47uF/25V Caps)
SerNo# 32554 Bad (NIC NRWA 47uf/25V Caps)
So it looks like the later serial number units are at risk, but these caps are also fitted to the BURR and other option boards so better to visually check.
NIC NRSA "Dark Blue Body", OK
NIC NRWA "Dark Brown Body" Leak...
I suspect the NRWA types might have been a low impedance series, while the NRSA are just general purpose.
Around the same era, I used Nippon ChemiCon Caps Low impedance type in my designs and these all leaked overtime (these where also dark brown body).
I had the same issue with an S1! The dark brown 47uF/25V NIC caps on the BUR and PHA1 boards were leaking. This was causing Ch B analyzer to fail and not give any readings as the 5534s in the instrumentation amp lost their power supply.
Fortunately, other APs (and other boards within the amp AP) had the blue caps and appeared to be OK. I went ahead and replaced 330u/35V and 1000u/50V caps in the GEN and DIS boards while I was at it as those looked a little old.
Fortunately, other APs (and other boards within the amp AP) had the blue caps and appeared to be OK. I went ahead and replaced 330u/35V and 1000u/50V caps in the GEN and DIS boards while I was at it as those looked a little old.
To correct for HF flatness you will adjust C4406 on the GEN board. I'm sure you'll have no problem finding it with the service manual.
Adjust C4406 with a 1.5V 100kHz sine wave to +/-0.01V with a precision voltmeter having adequate bandwidth. Note that C4406 was removed during the lifetime of the S1 so your unit may not have it.
Cheers!
Adjust C4406 with a 1.5V 100kHz sine wave to +/-0.01V with a precision voltmeter having adequate bandwidth. Note that C4406 was removed during the lifetime of the S1 so your unit may not have it.
Cheers!
Non of my units have C4406, and I have a problem with LF flatness - well at 20Hz, 0.035dB droop, Mask limit is 0.030 so not loosing sleep over it, but nice to understand whats up...
Sorry John. I don't know of any specific adjustment for LF flatness. There are many parts which are tuned on a per-module basis to dial in the characteristics (taking into account each individual module's unique tolerances). The service manual lays it all out, but not having faced this issue before I'd have to dig into it to give a recommendation. And you're certainly capable of doing it yourself.
But should you like some help, I'm happy to check it out along with you. If you fix it, it would be nice to document you success dealing with this issue.
But should you like some help, I'm happy to check it out along with you. If you fix it, it would be nice to document you success dealing with this issue.
Evan,
Yep, I'll add it to the list of things that need looking into... Erh sometimes never
I plan to only use the Ap S1's for the burn in rack, I'll live with 0.035dB drop at 20Hz... However I wonder what up, there's no AC coupling Cap to set the LF corner, I doubt its the transformer degrading with time
Yep, I'll add it to the list of things that need looking into... Erh sometimes never
I plan to only use the Ap S1's for the burn in rack, I'll live with 0.035dB drop at 20Hz... However I wonder what up, there's no AC coupling Cap to set the LF corner, I doubt its the transformer degrading with time
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Hi Jon,
Please send an email to <apusb@krebelder.at> with shipping address.
Costs will be about 150 € excl. shipping (i ordered fully assembled PCBs as it
is to much work for me to offer a kit).
The interface works with Win XP up to Win 8 and with Sys1 (Sys2 up to cascade should work too but is not tested yet).
Supported Software is APWIN 2.24 (with a new apio.dll for USB communication).
Thx,
Udo
Please send an email to <apusb@krebelder.at> with shipping address.
Costs will be about 150 € excl. shipping (i ordered fully assembled PCBs as it
is to much work for me to offer a kit).
The interface works with Win XP up to Win 8 and with Sys1 (Sys2 up to cascade should work too but is not tested yet).
Supported Software is APWIN 2.24 (with a new apio.dll for USB communication).
Thx,
Udo
Hi Guys
I though I would give you some info about S1. The basic design was started 1983 era by 4 Tektronix engineers when Tek stopped audio equipment production. I worked for AP for several years.
Your discussion on elect caps leakage after 20+ years who cares? This is beyond EOL. I service many S1 and replace lots of caps. The latest S1 are 1999 era and this was 15 years ago. I usually buy Panasonic caps 105° type not 85°.
You also need to replace OLD TANTALUN CAPS. Especially on the channel B input PCB assy.
Model S1-322 MUST HAVE THIS MOD; the 5VDC current is to high in this system for the Molex contact. The transformer Molex connector is rated for 8 amps our first failure I found in about 2001. I wrote an app note where the white wire is removed, The Molex connector is notched and the mating pin is bent down 90° and the white lead from the transformer is soldered to the pin and the Molex is fully seated by the notch placed in the connector shell.
Low freq dropout 0.035dB problem. Is this the same for each channel? Look @ the CMRR the 1UF Matched caps and or the Lamps may have aged.
I hope this info will help.
Duke
I though I would give you some info about S1. The basic design was started 1983 era by 4 Tektronix engineers when Tek stopped audio equipment production. I worked for AP for several years.
Your discussion on elect caps leakage after 20+ years who cares? This is beyond EOL. I service many S1 and replace lots of caps. The latest S1 are 1999 era and this was 15 years ago. I usually buy Panasonic caps 105° type not 85°.
You also need to replace OLD TANTALUN CAPS. Especially on the channel B input PCB assy.
Model S1-322 MUST HAVE THIS MOD; the 5VDC current is to high in this system for the Molex contact. The transformer Molex connector is rated for 8 amps our first failure I found in about 2001. I wrote an app note where the white wire is removed, The Molex connector is notched and the mating pin is bent down 90° and the white lead from the transformer is soldered to the pin and the Molex is fully seated by the notch placed in the connector shell.
Low freq dropout 0.035dB problem. Is this the same for each channel? Look @ the CMRR the 1UF Matched caps and or the Lamps may have aged.
I hope this info will help.
Duke
Hello All
I have another item to add.
KEEP FAN FILTER CLEAN. The foam will fall apart with time. I found some loose filler fabric @ JoAnns that I use for replacement for the foam. Make sure to blow out all of the dust bunny's. Cool air flow will keep the system operation going for a longer time.
When I service the systems I remove the power supply covers as the dust sometimes plugs up several of the vents.
Make sure that the when reinstalling the PS covers that the plastic edge protectors are reinstalled, so no chafing of the cables will bite you later.
Duke
I have another item to add.
KEEP FAN FILTER CLEAN. The foam will fall apart with time. I found some loose filler fabric @ JoAnns that I use for replacement for the foam. Make sure to blow out all of the dust bunny's. Cool air flow will keep the system operation going for a longer time.
When I service the systems I remove the power supply covers as the dust sometimes plugs up several of the vents.
Make sure that the when reinstalling the PS covers that the plastic edge protectors are reinstalled, so no chafing of the cables will bite you later.
Duke